#ygrps-yiv-262261017 p {margin:0;}Having used it now for over 2 years, I find that it's not as difficult as it looks -IF- you keep the threads clean and free of corrosion (Which I do).
A 12mm wrench is always at hand. One quick flick to loosen the lock nut, then hold the nut with your finger and spin the bolt with the other to loosen. Tightening is easy too once you "get" the process, after a sprocket change for instance:
I install the axle with no tension on the castle nut, yank the tire back, then spin the bolts out to "get 'er close". Then I put a few ft-lbs on the castle nut to give it some resistance. I finish the adjustments with a wrench, it goes faster than you expect because a little turn will move the axle quite a bit. Once I have it where I want it, I tighten the castle nut. Re-check the chain slack and tighten the lock nuts. It takes a truthful 5-7 minutes.
Last sprocket change (swapping one 15T for another) took 12 minutes, start to finish and I didn't have to adjust anything. Admittedly I was using an optimal setup (Prevailing Torque nut, 24" breaker bar, deep socket, a puller for the sprocket and my KLR-specific tool set with real sockets, etc. that I keep on the bike.) I'll definitely need the puller to get it off. The JT sprocket I put on was a tight fit on the splines and I had to put it on with a hammer and a socket.
Now, if I'm not changing sprockets, just changing a tire, brake pads, etc. you can remove the back wheel and re-install without moving the adjusters at all. As you drive the axle in with a few taps of a mallet, the sliders put everything back where it was, no adjustment required.
Adjusting for wear is quick and easy too. Take a few ft-lbs off the castle nut, but don't completely loosen it. Two or 3 tweaks each side on the adjustment bolts and tighten everything back down. Under 5 minutes tops.
-Jeff Khoury
[b]From: [/b]"revmaaatin"
[b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
[b]Sent: [/b]Tuesday, January 4, 2011 7:54:02 PM
[b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Re: Question on buying a 08 KLR 650
--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:
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> You left out:
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> Plus:
> The swingarm is more attractive and has a more durable adjustment mechanism.
Boy, that was one I thought was a negative.
As a rider that moves/changes front sprockets often, the current system looks painful to me; (admittedly, I have not used it). Using an eyeball swag, I would say it would take an extra 10-15 minutes to use the current adjustment to change front sprockets over the previous pre-08 design.
I was disappointed they did not go to a snail adjuster rather than the current 08+ system. The snail cam adjuster is better/faster than either of the previous installments. Could have taken it right off their KLX300R line.
Anyone here that makes sprocket changes often, feel free to comment on the two systems. Particularily if you have had both Gen 1 and Gen 2 KLR's.
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> Dual-Pot brakes are front AND Rear with nice petaled rotors.
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> Forks are increased to 41mm diameter with progressively-wound springs.
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> Bigger, more durable luggage rack.
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> Minus:
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> More plastic to break when you crash.
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> Goofy-looking graphics package (mine was deleted)
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> Front fender is a frikkin' sail and looks like a bird's beak that flew into a wall.
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> -Jeff Khoury
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