front wheel hub

DSN_KLR650
revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

question on buying a 08 klr 650

Post by revmaaatin » Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:54 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:
> > You left out: > > > Plus: > The swingarm is more attractive and has a more durable adjustment mechanism.
Boy, that was one I thought was a negative. As a rider that moves/changes front sprockets often, the current system looks painful to me; (admittedly, I have not used it). Using an eyeball swag, I would say it would take an extra 10-15 minutes to use the current adjustment to change front sprockets over the previous pre-08 design. I was disappointed they did not go to a snail adjuster rather than the current 08+ system. The snail cam adjuster is better/faster than either of the previous installments. Could have taken it right off their KLX300R line. Anyone here that makes sprocket changes often, feel free to comment on the two systems. Particularily if you have had both Gen 1 and Gen 2 KLR's.
> > Dual-Pot brakes are front AND Rear with nice petaled rotors. > > Forks are increased to 41mm diameter with progressively-wound springs. > > Bigger, more durable luggage rack. > > > > Minus: > > More plastic to break when you crash. > > Goofy-looking graphics package (mine was deleted) > > Front fender is a frikkin' sail and looks like a bird's beak that flew into a wall. > > -Jeff Khoury > >

revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

question on buying a 08 klr 650

Post by revmaaatin » Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:02 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rodney Enriquez wrote:
> > SNIP
Go buy it because you want the damn bike. That's what I would do. I would NEVER buy an '08. Can't you read LOL kidding
> > Have fun life is way to freaking short, it could end any minute. > > Hotrodkawi >
Hey Rodney, I got a Yamaha TTR225 that you really, really, want. Ah, no, that was MY story. By golly, I got it. It (the bike) was more confused than a goat in a hail storm. Be sure to ride what ever you are buying. If they won't let you ride it far enough to get it to full operating temps, don't buy it. That little TTR ran fine in the dealers parking lot. Get it a mile from the barn, and at operating temps, it was hopeless. IT took hours to get it sorted out. blah, blah, blah. revmaaatin.

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

question on buying a 08 klr 650

Post by Jeff Saline » Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:14 pm

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 04:02:14 -0000 "revmaaatin" writes:
> Hey Rodney, > I got a Yamaha TTR225 that you really, really, want. > Ah, no, that was MY story. > By golly, I got it. > It (the bike) was more confused than a goat in a hail storm. > > Be sure to ride what ever you are buying. > If they won't let you ride it far enough to get it to full operating > temps, don't buy it. > That little TTR ran fine in the dealers parking lot. > Get it a mile from the barn, and at operating temps, it was > hopeless. > IT took hours to get it sorted out. blah, blah, blah. > > revmaaatin.
<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Revmaatin, Yeah, but when you got that bike sorted, it out runs your KLR250. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ Globe Life Insurance $1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d23eff911891ab55c4st02vuc

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

question on buying a 08 klr 650

Post by Jeff Khoury » Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:06 am

#ygrps-yiv-262261017 p {margin:0;}Having used it now for over 2 years, I find that it's not as difficult as it looks -IF- you keep the threads clean and free of corrosion (Which I do). A 12mm wrench is always at hand.  One quick flick to loosen the lock nut, then hold the nut with your finger and spin the bolt with the other to loosen.  Tightening is easy too once you "get" the process, after a sprocket change for instance: I install the axle with no tension on the castle nut, yank the tire back, then spin the bolts out to "get 'er close".  Then I put a few ft-lbs on the castle nut to give it some resistance. I finish the adjustments with a wrench, it goes faster than you expect because a little turn will move the axle quite a bit.  Once I have it where I want it, I tighten the castle nut.  Re-check the chain slack and tighten the lock nuts.  It takes a truthful 5-7 minutes.  Last sprocket change (swapping one 15T for another) took 12 minutes, start to finish and I didn't have to adjust anything.  Admittedly I was using an optimal setup (Prevailing Torque nut, 24" breaker bar, deep socket, a puller for the sprocket and my KLR-specific tool set with real sockets, etc. that I keep on the bike.)  I'll definitely need the puller to get it off.  The JT sprocket I put on was a tight fit on the splines and I had to put it on with a hammer and a socket. Now, if I'm not changing sprockets, just changing a tire, brake pads, etc. you can remove the back wheel and re-install without moving the adjusters at all.  As you drive the axle in with a few taps of a mallet, the sliders put everything back where it was, no adjustment required. Adjusting for wear is quick and easy too.  Take a few ft-lbs off the castle nut, but don't completely loosen it.  Two or 3 tweaks each side on the adjustment bolts and tighten everything back down.  Under 5 minutes tops.  -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"revmaaatin" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Tuesday, January 4, 2011 7:54:02 PM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Re: Question on buying a 08 KLR 650  
--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > You left out: > > > Plus: > The swingarm is more attractive and has a more durable adjustment mechanism. Boy, that was one I thought was a negative. As a rider that moves/changes front sprockets often, the current system looks painful to me; (admittedly, I have not used it). Using an eyeball swag, I would say it would take an extra 10-15 minutes to use the current adjustment to change front sprockets over the previous pre-08 design. I was disappointed they did not go to a snail adjuster rather than the current 08+ system. The snail cam adjuster is better/faster than either of the previous installments. Could have taken it right off their KLX300R line. Anyone here that makes sprocket changes often, feel free to comment on the two systems. Particularily if you have had both Gen 1 and Gen 2 KLR's. > > Dual-Pot brakes are front AND Rear with nice petaled rotors. > > Forks are increased to 41mm diameter with progressively-wound springs. > > Bigger, more durable luggage rack. > > > > Minus: > > More plastic to break when you crash. > > Goofy-looking graphics package (mine was deleted) > > Front fender is a frikkin' sail and looks like a bird's beak that flew into a wall. > > -Jeff Khoury > >

revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

question on buying a 08 klr 650

Post by revmaaatin » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:41 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:
> > Having used it now for over 2 years, I find that it's not as difficult as it looks -IF- you keep the threads clean and free of corrosion (Which I do). > > A 12mm wrench is always at hand. One quick flick to loosen the lock nut, then hold the nut with your finger and spin the bolt with the other to loosen. Tightening is easy too once you "get" the process, after a sprocket change for instance: > > I install the axle with no tension on the castle nut, yank the tire back, then spin the bolts out to "get 'er close". Then I put a few ft-lbs on the castle nut to give it some resistance. I finish the adjustments with a wrench, it goes faster than you expect because a little turn will move the axle quite a bit. Once I have it where I want it, I tighten the castle nut. Re-check the chain slack and tighten the lock nuts. It takes a truthful 5-7 minutes. > > Last sprocket change (swapping one 15T for another) took 12 minutes, start to finish and I didn't have to adjust anything. Admittedly I was using an optimal setup (Prevailing Torque nut, 24" breaker bar, deep socket, a puller for the sprocket and my KLR-specific tool set with real sockets, etc. that I keep on the bike.) I'll definitely need the puller to get it off. The JT sprocket I put on was a tight fit on the splines and I had to put it on with a hammer and a socket. > > Now, if I'm not changing sprockets, just changing a tire, brake pads, etc. you can remove the back wheel and re-install without moving the adjusters at all. As you drive the axle in with a few taps of a mallet, the sliders put everything back where it was, no adjustment required. > > Adjusting for wear is quick and easy too. Take a few ft-lbs off the castle nut, but don't completely loosen it. Two or 3 tweaks each side on the adjustment bolts and tighten everything back down. Under 5 minutes tops. > > -Jeff Khoury >
Jeff- Thanks for a detailed reply. You might be faster than this 'old man'. I would guess that you are at least 2x faster than most! Practice and experience are of great benefit. I think my 14 y/o and I did two bikes ~25 minutes with only one set of 'good' tools. Still-- Just looking at the Gen 2 assembly, it looks painful. grin. For those new to KLR's- ON the Gen 1 bikes, I replace the double-nut adjuster with a single nut nyloc or prevailing torque nut. AFTER YOU ARE COMPLETELY Satisfied your chain alignment is correct-- you can help your sprocket change time by indexing the chain tensioner adjuster nuts. The nuts are indexed with center punch; WITH PROPER ALIGNMENT!!! . and .. 180 degrees out (= . on top-flat of the nut, rotate the nut 180 degrees/3 flats and ..) with a center punch. Then, if they are moved exactly the same amount in and out--they will keep the sprocket and chain in alignment. At least it has worked for me! Gen 1 sprocket change: Remove the c/s cover. Loosen the c/s nut (prevailing torque nut); put the bike in gear, hold the rear brake down, loosen nut Loosen the the axle nut (prevailing torque nut as well), move the chain tensioner nut ~8 turns, kick the tire forward roll the chain off the rear sprocket Slide the chain forward,slightly Swap the front sprocket (clean debris from sprocket area while the sprocket is removed) Clean residue from rear sprocket; WD40/rag Roll the chain back on to the rear sprocket Put slight pressure on the axle nut tighten the chain adjusters the first 5 turns Then, on 1/2 rev each side, making the last adjustment on the chain side. Tighten the axle nut. Tighten the c/s nut (bike in gear, hold the brake down) clean and replace the c/s guard. Lube the snot out of the chain. Validate the airpressure. While you are at it: Now would be a good time to slowly rotate the chain and examine every roller and every o-ring. Indexing . and .. the chain tensioning nut has made huge time savings and frustration reduction. Best if no extraneous conversation is occurring while this is done. Otherwise you can get lost in the number or turns you are making on the adjustment nut(s). Just for discussion: Those using a nyloc replacement on a Gen 1 chain adjuster, the nut is safe to use as long as you cannot turn it by hand after the first 2-3 thread engagement. If you can turn the nut the entire depth of the nut by hand, it is worn out. revmaaatin.

sylvain gilbert
Posts: 58
Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2005 7:25 am

front wheel hub

Post by sylvain gilbert » Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:47 pm

I'm still looking for an alternative solution to get a second set of wheels and would like to know if anyone would have a front hub available. Thanks Sylvain

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests