nklr-alaska riding
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- Posts: 19
- Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 12:42 pm
front sprocket removal ?
I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert
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front sprocket removal ?
On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 11:16:20 -0800 (PST) Robert Wayne
writes:
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Robert, I'll assume you have the stock nut and washer fastening instead of the prevailing torque nut set up. Make sure you flatten the locking washer that should be folded up against one flat of the nut. Once that's done what I'd do is get on the right side of the bike. I'd lean over the seat so my stomach was on it and put a long handled breaker bar with the correct size socket on it on the nut. Then I'd put a foot on the rear brake pedal and apply the brake while I pulled up on the breaker bar. If it didn't come loose right away I'd give it a jerk. Once it's broke loose you shouldn't have issues with getting the nut, washer and sprocket off. Oh, this is assuming also that the chain is still on the bike. : ) If the chain has been removed I'd put it back on just to break the nut loose. If you have the prevailing torque nut you won't need to mess with the washer. So just bust the nut loose. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the > front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock > things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a > bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert
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- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:39 pm
front sprocket removal ?
Robert - I hit it with a 1/2 impact wrench and it comes off
painlessly. If it didn't, I'd go to a 3/4 gun with over 1,500 ft/lbs
of torque...what I call the Peace Keeper. There's nothing this
hasn't loosened...ever! Otherwise, I've done it with a breaker bar
(a long bar that doesn't have a racheting head and it's longer for
more torque = power), but it's not easy. You could take a pencil
torch and precisely heat the nut. It'd be a last resort because
things burn or even explode causing death or damage (exercise extreme
care and ensure proper shop safety rules and precautions). If it's
just rusty, try soaking it in hydrogen peroxide or use a penetrant
like Liquid Wrench. Alternatively, you could always ride to a
friends or a shop with an impact wrench to loosen it for the first
time.
Me? I'd do Like Jeff said, leave the chain on and have someone sit
on the bike while it's in gear and you focus on grunting. Once the
nut is off, the sprocket should come off by hand/wiggling. There's
no need to get crazy with gear pullers, etc. Lastly, I might
recommend splashing a bit of Boulder Singletrack Copper Ale or
equivalent on the entire area...seems to please the Gods...and
stabilize the mechanic. Good luck.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote: > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert > > --------------------------------- > Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
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- Posts: 604
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front sprocket removal ?
A half inch impact wrench with the appropriate impact socket will zip the
nut right off.
front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert> [Original Message] > From: Robert Wayne > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 11/23/2007 11:16:23 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Front sprocket removal ? > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the
how.> > --------------------------------- > Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
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- Posts: 639
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front sprocket removal ?
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote:
.
Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put the bike in neutral and lean it
on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a piece of 4-foot galvanized
steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I get on bike and lean it to the
right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot steel pipe over the handle of the
ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I can pull up while sitting on
the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the pipe/ratchet combo to keep them on
the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place my left foot on the left
footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up the end of that big cheater
pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel rubbery due to the cush
damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling on that pipe, and
eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more torque than you expect, but it'll be
less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that rubber damping) . You may
need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to remove without the
cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug).
Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that if you had access to an
impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question
.
Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on the KLR will hold up
to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at most putting 150 foot-
pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no how, even with a four-foot
cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're better off with a new chain
anyhow
.
without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that big nut, right? If you don't do that, you're gonna have problems> > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket



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- Posts: 163
- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:39 pm
front sprocket removal ?
Eric where you really good at Twister? Everyone needs and impact
wrench/setup. They're so cheap and even compressors are 120V these
days. Electric impacts are much weaker but probably ok for this.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote: > > > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket > without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut > loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert > > > Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that big nut, right? If you don't do > that, you're gonna have problems. > > Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put the bike in neutral and lean it > on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a piece of 4-foot galvanized > steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I get on bike and lean it to the > right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot steel pipe over the handle of the > ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I can pull up while sitting on > the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the pipe/ratchet combo to keep them on > the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place my left foot on the left > footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up the end of that big cheater > pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel rubbery due to the cush > damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling on that pipe, and > eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more torque than you expect, but it'll be > less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that rubber damping) . You may > need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to remove without the > cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug). > > Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that if you had access to an > impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question
. > > Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on the KLR will hold up > to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at most putting 150 foot- > pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no how, even with a four-foot > cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're better off with a new chain > anyhow
. >
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:41 pm
nklr-alaska riding
In reply to Brians 2nd post again I agree with most that you have
said.
I really want to ride to the "Outside" but it seems that given my
experience level, sub-amateur, budget, time and the fact that I
already live here I should plan several trips, 10-30 days,as shake
down trips before venturing far in to foreign lands (those would be
Canada, Mexico and after 20 years here in AK, the USA)
I have traveled all the main paved roads in Alaska at one time or
another by car/truck. The challenges of weather, distant services,
support system (non-existant) that I would face "Outside" from AK can
easily be replicated and experienced here in AK. Learning this stuff
on my own 1500 miles from home sounds easier than learning it all
while 5-10,000 miles from home.
Places I would see try to see would be Kodiak, by ferry from Homer,
Valdez, Seward, Kenai, Eagle, Coldfoot, Circle etc, not the far north
but again I'm going to be within striking distance and a 2-3 day
sidetrip to Prudhoe just seems to make some sort of sense to me. If
I could avoid Fairbanks, Anchorage, I would be happier but you gotta
go through them to get anywhere in this state.
About 36 hours by boat from Ketchikan to Haines/Skagway connects to
the only road access to the mainland and therefore the rest of the
world, from here. Northbound that is, six hours by ferry from here to
Prince Rupert, BC.
If you are thinking of a trip through SE stop on by. I've got
a "community" starting on Horizons Unlimited site sometime this week
volunteering help here in Ketchikan.
May not make sense but I'm not really dangerous, really:)
Monte
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