nklr-alaska riding

[Robert Wayne]

I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert --------------------------------- Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 11:16:20 -0800 (PST) Robert Wayne writes:

> I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the > front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock > things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a > bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Robert, I'll assume you have the stock nut and washer fastening instead of the prevailing torque nut set up. Make sure you flatten the locking washer that should be folded up against one flat of the nut. Once that's done what I'd do is get on the right side of the bike. I'd lean over the seat so my stomach was on it and put a long handled breaker bar with the correct size socket on it on the nut. Then I'd put a foot on the rear brake pedal and apply the brake while I pulled up on the breaker bar. If it didn't come loose right away I'd give it a jerk. Once it's broke loose you shouldn't have issues with getting the nut, washer and sprocket off. Oh, this is assuming also that the chain is still on the bike. : ) If the chain has been removed I'd put it back on just to break the nut loose. If you have the prevailing torque nut you won't need to mess with the washer. So just bust the nut loose. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[traderpro2003]

Robert - I hit it with a 1/2 impact wrench and it comes off painlessly. If it didn't, I'd go to a 3/4 gun with over 1,500 ft/lbs of torque...what I call the Peace Keeper. There's nothing this hasn't loosened...ever! Otherwise, I've done it with a breaker bar (a long bar that doesn't have a racheting head and it's longer for more torque = power), but it's not easy. You could take a pencil torch and precisely heat the nut. It'd be a last resort because things burn or even explode causing death or damage (exercise extreme care and ensure proper shop safety rules and precautions). If it's just rusty, try soaking it in hydrogen peroxide or use a penetrant like Liquid Wrench. Alternatively, you could always ride to a friends or a shop with an impact wrench to loosen it for the first time. Me? I'd do Like Jeff said, leave the chain on and have someone sit on the bike while it's in gear and you focus on grunting. Once the nut is off, the sprocket should come off by hand/wiggling. There's no need to get crazy with gear pullers, etc. Lastly, I might recommend splashing a bit of Boulder Singletrack Copper Ale or equivalent on the entire area...seems to please the Gods...and stabilize the mechanic. Good luck.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote: > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert > > --------------------------------- > Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Harry Seifert]

A half inch impact wrench with the appropriate impact socket will zip the nut right off.

> [Original Message] > From: Robert Wayne > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 11/23/2007 11:16:23 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Front sprocket removal ? > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the

front sprocket without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert

> > --------------------------------- > Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See

how.

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote:

> > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket

without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that big nut, right? If you don't do that, you're gonna have problems . Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put the bike in neutral and lean it on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a piece of 4-foot galvanized steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I get on bike and lean it to the right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot steel pipe over the handle of the ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I can pull up while sitting on the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the pipe/ratchet combo to keep them on the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place my left foot on the left footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up the end of that big cheater pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel rubbery due to the cush damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling on that pipe, and eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more torque than you expect, but it'll be less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that rubber damping) . You may need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to remove without the cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug). Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that if you had access to an impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question . Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on the KLR will hold up to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at most putting 150 foot- pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no how, even with a four-foot cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're better off with a new chain anyhow .

[traderpro2003]

Eric where you really good at Twister? Everyone needs and impact wrench/setup. They're so cheap and even compressors are 120V these days. Electric impacts are much weaker but probably ok for this.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote: > > > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to remove the front sprocket > without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down enough to break the nut > loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. Thanks a lot..... robert > > > Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that big nut, right? If you don't do > that, you're gonna have problems . > > Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put the bike in neutral and lean it > on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a piece of 4-foot galvanized > steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I get on bike and lean it to the > right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot steel pipe over the handle of the > ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I can pull up while sitting on > the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the pipe/ratchet combo to keep them on > the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place my left foot on the left > footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up the end of that big cheater > pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel rubbery due to the cush > damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling on that pipe, and > eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more torque than you expect, but it'll be > less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that rubber damping) . You may > need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to remove without the > cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug). > > Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that if you had access to an > impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question . > > Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on the KLR will hold up > to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at most putting 150 foot- > pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no how, even with a four-foot > cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're better off with a new chain > anyhow . >

[monte quint]

In reply to Brians 2nd post again I agree with most that you have said. I really want to ride to the "Outside" but it seems that given my experience level, sub-amateur, budget, time and the fact that I already live here I should plan several trips, 10-30 days,as shake down trips before venturing far in to foreign lands (those would be Canada, Mexico and after 20 years here in AK, the USA) I have traveled all the main paved roads in Alaska at one time or another by car/truck. The challenges of weather, distant services, support system (non-existant) that I would face "Outside" from AK can easily be replicated and experienced here in AK. Learning this stuff on my own 1500 miles from home sounds easier than learning it all while 5-10,000 miles from home. Places I would see try to see would be Kodiak, by ferry from Homer, Valdez, Seward, Kenai, Eagle, Coldfoot, Circle etc, not the far north but again I'm going to be within striking distance and a 2-3 day sidetrip to Prudhoe just seems to make some sort of sense to me. If I could avoid Fairbanks, Anchorage, I would be happier but you gotta go through them to get anywhere in this state. About 36 hours by boat from Ketchikan to Haines/Skagway connects to the only road access to the mainland and therefore the rest of the world, from here. Northbound that is, six hours by ferry from here to Prince Rupert, BC. If you are thinking of a trip through SE stop on by. I've got a "community" starting on Horizons Unlimited site sometime this week volunteering help here in Ketchikan. May not make sense but I'm not really dangerous, really:) Monte