digest number 5419

DSN_KLR650
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shirojiro1
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 7:09 pm

that darn countershaft nut

Post by shirojiro1 » Sun Aug 15, 2004 12:43 pm

So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16: -cleaning the air filter, -doing the T-vent mod, -replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting, -trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T First of all, my air filter was nasty. After fixing the carb nut and cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better. The T- vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for all those deep water crossings in San Francisco. ;) But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A. I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose to save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I managed to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy from the impact driver. I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied Liquid Wrench as well. I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat things up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket as well as the countershaft seal. Any other tips? I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon. -Shin

shirojiro1
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 7:09 pm

that darn countershaft nut

Post by shirojiro1 » Sun Aug 15, 2004 6:02 pm

thanks for the tips - I think a longer bar and a 6 point socket are in my future. -Shin
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Walt" wrote: > Don't use any heat. If you overdo it the oil seal can be damaged. > > Put the front tire against a wall and sit on the bike with your foot on the > rear brake. Use your left foot to push the cheater bar as your leg muscles > are much stronger than your arms and you can apply more body weight. If > your friend is still around have him hold you steady to avoid slipping and > falling. If this does not work then repeat above with a longer bar. It is > not necessary to make it so freaking tight when you replace it. > > Walt > A14 "War Horse" > > > -----Original Message----- > But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A. > > I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose to > save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold > the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I managed > to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but > the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy > from the impact driver. > > I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied > Liquid Wrench as well. > > I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat things > up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket > as well as the countershaft seal. > > Any other tips? > > I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon. > > -Shin

rsanders30117
Posts: 469
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:06 am

that darn countershaft nut

Post by rsanders30117 » Mon Aug 16, 2004 7:01 am

I had exactly the same experience with the first time I tried to remove my front sprocket nut. I resorted to cutting it off with a Dremil abrasive wheel. By very carefully make two cuts 180 degrees apart, then applying a chisel to the cuts. I was able to split the nut with minimal damage to the shaft. I also was tempted to apply a torch but I wouldn't because of the oily deposits in the area & the vulnerable wiring. Don't take that risk! I would ride it to a shop that has an impact wrench & have them break it loose then hand tighten it back. You'll be good to go after that. The good news is that this is a problem only on the 1st time. I've changed this sprocket many time since then & the standard nut with the recommend torque removes very easily. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "shirojiro1" wrote:
> So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16: > > -cleaning the air filter, > -doing the T-vent mod, > -replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting, > -trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T > > First of all, my air filter was nasty. After fixing the carb nut
and
> cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better. The
T-
> vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for > all those deep water crossings in San Francisco. ;) > > But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A. > > I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose
to
> save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold > the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I
managed
> to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but > the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy > from the impact driver. > > I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied > Liquid Wrench as well. > > I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat
things
> up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket > as well as the countershaft seal. > > Any other tips? > > I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon. > > -Shin

Harry Myhre
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 8:56 pm

digest number 5419

Post by Harry Myhre » Mon Aug 16, 2004 10:22 pm

I say go for a new bike if you can... HOWEVER - my local suzuki dealer has always maintained - you loose 25% of the value of a bike the moment you ride it off the showroom floor (Harley-Davidson's might be an exception to that rule). On 8/15/04 4:21 PM, "DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 15:00:36 -0000 > From: "rther9491" > Subject: gents > > i found a klr in california about an hour and a half away . the > owner wants $4300.00 for the bike . i then have to pay about $380.00 > in cali taxes so the bike will go for about $4700.00 . the bike > comes with a centerstsand , radiator guard and a skid plate and the > bike is a green 2003 which is a color that i like . the bikes got > 2900 miles and is described as pristine and the bike has no > warranty . i spoke to the owner and i'd say that he is a [probably] > decent , honest guy thats getting out of the bike due to a change in > plans . --------- the other way that i can go would be a new bike > with a warranty from a dealer that i found . he will let me have a > new klr for $5500.00 out the door . the dealer will install all > upgrades for free if i buy the parts from him . ----- so financialy > speaking , which is the logical way to go ?????? ----- arthur

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