digest number 5419
- 
				shirojiro1
 - Posts: 26
 - Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 7:09 pm
 
that darn countershaft nut
So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16: 
 
 -cleaning the air filter, 
 -doing the T-vent mod, 
 -replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting,
 -trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T
 
 First of all, my air filter was nasty.  After fixing the carb nut and 
 cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better.  The T-
 vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for 
 all those deep water crossings in San Francisco.  
 
 But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A.
 
 I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose to 
 save my life.  I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold 
 the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I managed 
 to do was strain my hands.  I tried my hand held impact driver, but 
 the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy 
 from the impact driver.
 
 I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied 
 Liquid Wrench as well.
 
 I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat things 
 up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket 
 as well as the countershaft seal.
 
 Any other tips?
 
 I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon.
 
 -Shin
			
			
									
									
						- 
				shirojiro1
 - Posts: 26
 - Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 7:09 pm
 
that darn countershaft nut
thanks for the tips - I think a longer bar and a 6 point socket are 
 in my future.
 
 -Shin
 
 
			
			
									
									
						--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Walt" wrote: > Don't use any heat. If you overdo it the oil seal can be damaged. > > Put the front tire against a wall and sit on the bike with your foot on the > rear brake. Use your left foot to push the cheater bar as your leg muscles > are much stronger than your arms and you can apply more body weight. If > your friend is still around have him hold you steady to avoid slipping and > falling. If this does not work then repeat above with a longer bar. It is > not necessary to make it so freaking tight when you replace it. > > Walt > A14 "War Horse" > > > -----Original Message----- > But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A. > > I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose to > save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold > the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I managed > to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but > the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy > from the impact driver. > > I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied > Liquid Wrench as well. > > I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat things > up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket > as well as the countershaft seal. > > Any other tips? > > I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon. > > -Shin
- 
				rsanders30117
 - Posts: 469
 - Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:06 am
 
that darn countershaft nut
I had exactly the same experience with the first time I tried to 
 remove my front sprocket nut.  I resorted to cutting it off with a 
 Dremil abrasive wheel.  By very carefully make two cuts 180 degrees 
 apart, then applying a chisel to the cuts. I was able to split the 
 nut with minimal damage to the shaft.  
 
 I also was tempted to apply a torch but I wouldn't because of the 
 oily deposits in the area & the vulnerable wiring.  Don't take that 
 risk! I would ride it to a shop that has an impact wrench & have them 
 break it loose then hand tighten it back.  You'll be good to go after 
 that.
 
 The good news is that this is a problem only on the 1st time.  I've 
 changed this sprocket many time since then & the standard nut with 
 the recommend torque removes very easily.
 
 
 
 --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "shirojiro1"  
 wrote:
 
			
			
									
									
						and> So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16: > > -cleaning the air filter, > -doing the T-vent mod, > -replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting, > -trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T > > First of all, my air filter was nasty. After fixing the carb nut
T-> cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better. The
to> vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for > all those deep water crossings in San Francisco.> > But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A. > > I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose
managed> save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold > the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I
things> to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but > the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy > from the impact driver. > > I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied > Liquid Wrench as well. > > I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat
> up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket > as well as the countershaft seal. > > Any other tips? > > I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon. > > -Shin
- 
				Harry Myhre
 - Posts: 34
 - Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 8:56 pm
 
digest number 5419
I say go for a new bike if you can...
 HOWEVER - my local suzuki dealer has always maintained - you loose 25% of
 the value of a bike the moment you ride it off the showroom floor
 (Harley-Davidson's might be an exception to that rule).
 
 On 8/15/04 4:21 PM, "DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com"
 DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
 
			
			
									
									
						> Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 15:00:36 -0000 > From: "rther9491" > Subject: gents > > i found a klr in california about an hour and a half away . the > owner wants $4300.00 for the bike . i then have to pay about $380.00 > in cali taxes so the bike will go for about $4700.00 . the bike > comes with a centerstsand , radiator guard and a skid plate and the > bike is a green 2003 which is a color that i like . the bikes got > 2900 miles and is described as pristine and the bike has no > warranty . i spoke to the owner and i'd say that he is a [probably] > decent , honest guy thats getting out of the bike due to a change in > plans . --------- the other way that i can go would be a new bike > with a warranty from a dealer that i found . he will let me have a > new klr for $5500.00 out the door . the dealer will install all > upgrades for free if i buy the parts from him . ----- so financialy > speaking , which is the logical way to go ?????? ----- arthur
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