Consider yourself lucky, the bearing is SUPPOSED to be tight on the axle
housing and a bearing puller is the only correct way to remove the bearing
housing and bearing. I would use MGA octagonal nuts ( another pair of
octagons on the car can do no harm ), or hex. nuts and oil seals and torque
the nuts to 125 ft-lbs to hold the bearing on the axle tube on
re-assembly..
As I said to you before, I would strip the entire rear axle, clean and
check everything. There is sure to be some grit/steel in the axle as a
result of the shaft breaking . I would install tapered roller bearings in
the diff, or at the very least check the front double row pinion ball
bearing brass cages. Also ensure the other non-broken axle to hub is a
TIGHT fit ( bounce the axle end on a concrete floor and the whole assembly
should 'ring" ). New oil seals and other new parts as required and you
have a chance of getting a maintenance free rear axle assembly.
BTW, why does the bearing carrier have to come off to replace just a
half-shaft?.
Bob
----------
Phil> From: FDShade@aol.com
> To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
> Subject: [mg-tabc] %$#&%
> Date: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 12:45 AM
>
> As you may recall, I broke my axle shaft. I decided to install one of
bearing> Marino's tapered shafts. In order to do that one has to remove the
the> housing. Well, I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to remove
were> lock nuts that hold the bearing housing onto the axle housing. Finally I
> called John Seim and he told me about the little tabs on the washer that
and> bent into the grooves of the lock nut. So now I have the lock nut off
pried> the bearing housing should slide right off right? WRONG ! I have
luck.> and pulled and hammered and tried everything but a wheel puller with no
>
>
> Should the bearing housing slide off now, or am I missing something?
>
> Jim Shade, West Covina CA
>
>
>