Brake Drums "Frozen"

[Lange, Richard F]

I have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them. Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now when the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes have probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even tried placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and pull the brake and brake shoes off the hub.... Any ideas what might work? Dick Lange Boeing Commercial Airplane Group DCAC-MRM PROJECT SUPPORT, BUILD TEAM 7-206 3D1-2.1, M/S 6M-HR, Fax (425) 965-6655 Phone : (425 ) 965-6789 Pager: (206) 416-3663 Cell Phone (425)941-0385 Home Phone (425)481-3063

[i.thomson@talk21.com]

Back the adjusters off fully, release the handbrake cable....and patiently hit the drum in all directions with a soft mallet with just enough force not to damage it!! Perseverence and patience are needed. Once it starts moving - even very slightly - it will eventually come free. Expect problems with any lip coming over the shoes. Try not to lever the drum from behind or it can distort the backplate. Good Luck. Ian Thomson. ---------------------

> I have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now >wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them. >Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now when >the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes have >probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old >Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow. > >Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the >wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even tried >placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction >of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the >main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and pull >the brake and brake shoes off the hub.... > >Any ideas what might work? > > Dick Lange > Boeing Commercial Airplane Group > DCAC-MRM PROJECT SUPPORT, BUILD TEAM > 7-206 3D1-2.1, M/S 6M-HR, Fax (425) 965-6655 > Phone : (425 ) 965-6789 Pager: (206) 416-3663 > Cell Phone (425)941-0385 Home Phone (425)481-3063 > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'>[url=http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>

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[joecurto@aol.com]

Ian regarding this fellows frozen brakes, if they were frozen chances are that the adjuster screw will not be where the hole is. Joe

[i.thomson@talk21.com]

Charles, Obviously something is dragging somewhere. If the drum did not have to be forced on and turns reasonably easily by hand then it is likely that the shoes will bed in quite quickly. Check it regularly and if it seems to be getting no better you will have to pull the drum to investigate...again. -----------------

> on a related issue. >I am now starting to run my TC after a complete rebuild. >I rebuilt the front and rear brakes with new cylinders, shoes, reground >drums etc. >After a run of about 5 miles I find the rear drums hot to touch while the >front drums are cool to cold. I have tried adjusting the shoes and the >drums do not seem to bind . Is this amount of heat generated acceptable? > > >Charles

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[David and Joyce Edgar]

Charles, How long after you stop are you touching the brake drums? All of them should be hot or warm right after coming to a stop. If the front ones are cold then they are not working as the brakes job is to convert the energy of the TC's motion to heat energy. Jack the front up and have someone apply the brakes while you turn the wheels to check. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

> > on a related issue. > >I am now starting to run my TC after a complete rebuild. > >I rebuilt the front and rear brakes with new cylinders, shoes, reground > >drums etc. > >After a run of about 5 miles I find the rear drums hot to touch while the > >front drums are cool to cold. I have tried adjusting the shoes and the > >drums do not seem to bind . Is this amount of heat generated acceptable?

[i.thomson@talk21.com]

Charles. The drum temperature on stopping depends on how much the brakes were used in stopping. IME they will not be _hot_ if just used for stopping "normally". I have even durnt my hand in these circumstances (foolish boy!). On the other hand if the brakes are dragging to any degree the drums will be too hot to touch. Ian Thomson

> Charles, > >How long after you stop are you touching the brake drums? All of >them should be hot or warm right after coming to a stop. If the >front ones are cold then they are not working as the brakes job is to >convert the energy of the TC's motion to heat energy. > >Jack the front up and have someone apply the brakes while you turn >the wheels to check. > >David Edgar, TC 5108 >El Cajon, California > > > > on a related issue. > >I am now starting to run my TC after a complete rebuild. > >I rebuilt the front and rear brakes with new cylinders, shoes, reground > >drums etc. > >After a run of about 5 miles I find the rear drums hot to touch while the > >front drums are cool to cold. I have tried adjusting the shoes and the > >drums do not seem to bind . Is this amount of heat generated acceptable? > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'''>[url=http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/''http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/''>>http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/''>[url=http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'>http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/''>[url=http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'>>http://talk21.btopenworld.com/redirect.html?http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/'>[url=http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>

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[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Charles, Have you checked to see if the hand-brake cables are free, and that the hand-brake adjustment is correct?? Problems in either of these could cause dragging rear brakes Regards, Carl Fritz TC # 6756 (Betsy) VA # 2009 S (Abigail) Gainesville, Florida