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								Gene Wescott							 
									
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								by Gene Wescott » Wed Jan 10, 2001 12:14 pm
			
			
			
			
			          I need to replace my SU fuel pump next May when my  car comes out of storage.   I have 2 spare pumps,
 but one is tagged as a high pressure pump, and the  other is unlabeled.   I know that a high pressure pump
 will flood the carbs, so I don't want to  put  it on.   I have noticed that some pumps have 
 two points and others just one.   What is the  difference?   How can I tell if a pump is low pressure or high 
 pressure?   There doesn't seem to be an ID number except on the bottom of the base  which says SU part 
 number 4080.   This is probably the part number  of the base.
 Gene Wescott
  
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
				
		
		
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								C. Knight							 
									
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								by C. Knight » Wed Jan 10, 2001 1:18 pm
			
			
			
			
			> Gene Wescott wrote:
 >  How can I tell if a pump is low pressure or high
 > pressure?  
 
  
If the tag is intact the Low pressure MG pumps will be AUA 25, and
 Morris Minor low pressure was AUA 66, but has different pipe connections
 (which can easily be changed). TF was high pressure AUA54.
 To check a pump without a tag the following may help:
 
 All high pressure pumps had a condenser and a bump to accommodate it in
 the end cover.
 
 All LP pumps had flat end covers
 
 LP pumps had a 2 BA earth screw, or pre-war, used an extended coil screw
 for earth, and HP pumps all had a 4 BA earth screws, except the AUA 54
 on the TF which has a 2 BA screw but is 1/2 in longer than all the
 others. The MGA and later HP pumps had 4 BA earth screws and the
 standard shorter body.
 
 The twin contacts were a later improvement by SU and are completely
 interchangeable. They give double the contact area so are worth fitting.
 The best fix to reduce contact erosion however is the addition of the
 condenser, but you will need a non TA/TB/TC original cover with a bump
 to accommodate it - if that matters!.
 Hope the above does not confuse
 Cliff
 
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
				
		
		
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								David and Joyce Edgar							 
									
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								by David and Joyce Edgar » Wed Jan 10, 2001 2:40 pm
			
			
			
			
			Even better than the condenser to reduce point wear in the SU pumb is 
 to add a transistor.  It fits under the flat end cap and is 
 completely reversible for you purist types.
 
 David Edgar, TC 5108
 La Mesa, California
 
 
 
 >The twin contacts were a later improvement by SU and are completely
 >interchangeable. They give double the contact area so are worth fitting.
 >The best fix to reduce contact erosion however is the addition of the
 >condenser, but you will need a non TA/TB/TC original cover with a bump
 >to accommodate it - if that matters!.
 >Hope the above does not confuse
 >Cliff 
 
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
				
		
		
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								Gene Wescott							 
									
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								by Gene Wescott » Wed Jan 10, 2001 2:41 pm
			
			
			
			
			----- Original Message -----
 From: "C. Knight" cliffknight@ic24.net>
 To: "tabc-forever" mg-tabc@egroups.com>
 Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 12:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] identification of SU fuel pumps
 
 
 > > Gene Wescott wrote:
 > >  How can I tell if a pump is low pressure or high
 > > pressure?
 >
 > If the tag is intact the Low pressure MG pumps will be AUA 25, and
 > Morris Minor low pressure was AUA 66, but has different pipe connections
 > (which can easily be changed). TF was high pressure AUA54.
 > To check a pump without a tag the following may help:
 >
 > All high pressure pumps had a condenser and a bump to accommodate it in
 > the end cover.
 >
 > All LP pumps had flat end covers
 >
 > LP pumps had a 2 BA earth screw, or pre-war, used an extended coil screw
 > for earth, and HP pumps all had a 4 BA earth screws, except the AUA 54
 > on the TF which has a 2 BA screw but is 1/2 in longer than all the
 > others. The MGA and later HP pumps had 4 BA earth screws and the
 > standard shorter body.
 >
 > The twin contacts were a later improvement by SU and are completely
 > interchangeable. They give double the contact area so are worth fitting.
 > The best fix to reduce contact erosion however is the addition of the
 > condenser, but you will need a non TA/TB/TC original cover with a bump
 > to accommodate it - if that matters!.
 > Hope the above does not confuse
 > Cliff
 Dear Cliff
 Thanks for the information.  The tag on the high pressure pump is one of
 mine
 handwritten.  I think that Mike Goodman identified it once.  It is the same
 length
 as the other pump, about 2 1/4 inches.  It has double contacts with a .047
 condenser installed and the later cap with a bump and a vacuum hose fitting.
   At the base of the body there is
 a little male hose fitting sticking out of casting flange at 45 degrees.
 The earth screw
 is probably a 4 BA, certainly not a 2BA.  The casting where the earth screw
 goes in
 says 15 on top.  So it looks as if it is MGA or later from your description.
 
 The other unknown pump looks like a stock TC/TD pump.  It uses a 2BA screw
 for the earth, and has a single contact without a condenser.  The body has
 the partial
 remnants of a white tag with the letters ..EBU..  I assume that it is a
 stock low pressure
 pump which I will have overhauled before I try to depend on it. 
 
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
				
		
		
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								C. Knight							 
									
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								by C. Knight » Thu Jan 11, 2001 1:44 pm
			
			
			
			
			Gene Wescott wrote:
 
 > 
 > The other unknown pump looks like a stock TC/TD pump.  It uses a 2BA screw
 > for the earth, and has a single contact without a condenser.  The body has
 > the partial
 > remnants of a white tag with the letters ..EBU..  I assume that it is a
 > stock low pressure
 > pump which I will have overhauled before I try to depend on it.
 
  
Sounds like an LP pump. I don't recognize the "..EBU.." Check that it is
 12 volt, not 6 volt. It should say on the cap.
 SU pumps are very easy to overhaul at home. No special tools beyond
 spanners and feeler gauges are needed.  New diaphragms and points kits
 are readily available. If you decide to DIY and do not have access to
 the overhaul procedures let me know and I will post them.
 Warning ....original and pre 1980s diaphragms dissolve in modern fuels.
 The leak sends petrol into the contact breaker area of the case which
 could ignite. If you contemplate using old SUs take the precaution of
 fitting new diaphragms from a reputable source.
 Regards
 Cliff
 
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
				
		
		
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								C. Knight							 
									
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								by C. Knight » Sat Jan 13, 2001 12:13 pm
			
			
			
			
			"Leclerc, Lawrence" wrote:
 
 > 
 > Cliff: I would sure like to see the overhaul directions you refer to. Any
 > chance of having them posted to the TABC web site?
 > Thanks
 > Larry Leclerc
 
  
I'll check with the copyright holder. 
 
 I've just noticed another indicator for L or HP pumps. The outlet valve
 cage has 4 holes on an HP and only 2 on the L type.
 
 Regards
 Cliff
 
			
			
									
									
						 
		 
				
		
		 
	 
	
	
	
	
		
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