Probably the easiest to install are the Hot Grips, since they combine both the grips and the heating elements. You'll still have some work to do to get the old grips off, though.> Looking for a cost effective and easy to do heated grip mod for my > klr650.
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/>
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/>
San Jose, CA (USA)I had hotgrips on an SR500 a while back. They are rock hard (uncomfortable), and have to be glued to the bars. On a bike that might be used offroad, bars are a consumable, which means the grips go along with the bars. I have a pair of heaters that wrap around on top of your grips, I think they were $40 from Aerostich.com when I bought them a long time ago. They are a bit bulky, and I would zip-tie over them to keep them extra secure, but they heated up really well since the rubber grips insulated the heaters from the bars. Devon Brooklyn '07 EXC450 '78 SR500 '01 KL250 Super Sherpa> On Nov 7, 2006, at 7:14 AM, hofsassw wrote: >> Looking for a cost effective and easy to do heated grip mod for my >> klr650. > > Probably the easiest to install are the Hot Grips, since they combine > both the grips and the heating elements. You'll still have some work > to do to get the old grips off, though.
I had hotgrips on an SR500 a while back. They are rock hard (uncomfortable), and have to be glued to the bars. On a bike that might be used offroad, bars are a consumable, which means the grips go along with the bars. I have a pair of heaters that wrap around on top of your grips, I think they were $40 from Aerostich.com when I bought them a long time ago. They are a bit bulky, and I would zip-tie over them to keep them extra secure, but they heated up really well since the rubber grips insulated the heaters from the bars. Devon Brooklyn '07 EXC450 '78 SR500 '01 KL250 Super Sherpa [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> On Nov 7, 2006, at 7:14 AM, hofsassw wrote: >> Looking for a cost effective and easy to do heated grip mod for my >> klr650. > > Probably the easiest to install are the Hot Grips, since they combine > both the grips and the heating elements. You'll still have some work > to do to get the old grips off, though.
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Yardman47, I suggest you cut the stock grips off with a razor blade. Then use a metal file, maybe a mill bastard, to file off the ridges on the throttle tube. I think that will reduce chances for damage to the heating element from bending the filaments. I think I used a preparation solvent for painting to clean the clutch side bar of all residue. I suggest you get two sets of grips so you have two throttle side grips. The throttle side grip has a larger hole than the clutch side grip. Then get some bicycle grip cork tape and wrap only one layer on the metal handlebar on the clutch side. I also suggest you put the throttle side heating element on the clutch side and the clutch side heating element on the throttle side. The Dual Star set up uses two different elements. With the clutch side bar insulated with the bicycle grip cork tape the throttle side heating element on the clutch side will still be hotter than the clutch side heating element on the throttle side. If you don't swap the heating elements the clutch side will be really a lot hotter than the throttle side. Ask Martin Earl about that. : ) I put the heating element on the bar over the throttle tube or cork grip tape and use some sewing thread lightly wrapped around the element to help hold it in place. I don't think the adhesive on the heating elements works very well. I lube the heating element with High Temperature RTV and then slide the grip over the element. A little RTV goes a long way and it's probably best to put most of it on the outboard end of the bars as the grip will squeegee it towards the switch housings. The RTV works as a very slippery lube during the installation and then after 24 hours it is set as a very good glue, but it's easily removed later if needed. It's nothing like the stock glue which seems to want to be part of the KLR forever. Once the grips are on the bars I leave them alone for 24 hours so the RTV can set/cure/vulcanize. That means I don't wait 3-4 hours and then give them a twist to see how things are going. I leave them alone and let time do it's thing. While waiting for 24 hours that allows me to do the wiring if I want. Some folks like to use the city lights wiring for powering accessories. I don't think the city lights wiring can effectively handle much of a load. So what I like to do is use the city lights wiring to control a relay that provides power to my accessories. The city lights wiring can be found near the right front turn signal wiring behind the fairing. It's controlled by the key so it's only powered when the key is in the on or park position. I never use the park position so that's not an issue for me. I run a new circuit for power using maybe 12 or 14 gauge wire from the battery to the relay. I put a fuse in this wire near the battery but in a location where I can get to it without having to remove a side cover or seat etc. The fuse I use is rated at 10 amps I think. I don't want to ever use more than 10 amps on my bike as the electrical system can't charge the battery at that rate of use. The relay should probably be rated at 20 or 30 amps so you get longer life from it. You can get one at Radio Shack or most decent auto parts stores. I don't think I'd pay more than $8 for one. The relay should have four terminals numbered 30 (power in), 87 (power out), 85 & 86 (relay control). Hook the city lights wiring to terminals 85 & 86. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal in this application. Connect the new fused wire from the battery to terminal 30. Then connect the power wire to the heated grips switch to terminal 87. I don't remember which color wire is ground on the Dual Star heating elements but make sure those two wires (one from each heating element) have a good solid connection that is in fact a ground. Then hook the two remaining circuits (two wires each, one high and one low from each heating element) to the outboard terminals on the three position switch provided with the kit. I mounted my switch so the movement is in a vertical orientation with up as high and down as low. If you want to do that the high wires go on the bottom terminal and the low wires go on the upper terminals. Guess that's enough for now. I think Martin Earl covered this same procedure in detail a few weeks ago. Let us know how it goes. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> I ordered the heated grip kit from dual star (great service by the > way). > 1. How do I remove the stock grips? 2. Any wiring suggestions? > Thanks for the help! Yardman47
the> > On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 22:52:15 -0000 "hofsassw" > writes: > > I ordered the heated grip kit from dual star (great service by
a> > way). > > 1. How do I remove the stock grips? 2. Any wiring suggestions? > > Thanks for the help! Yardman47 > <><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><> > > Yardman47, > > I suggest you cut the stock grips off with a razor blade. Then use
throttle> metal file, maybe a mill bastard, to file off the ridges on the
element> tube. I think that will reduce chances for damage to the heating
for> from bending the filaments. I think I used a preparation solvent
grips.> painting to clean the clutch side bar of all residue. > > I suggest you get two sets of grips so you have two throttle side
grip. Then> The throttle side grip has a larger hole than the clutch side
metal> get some bicycle grip cork tape and wrap only one layer on the
side> handlebar on the clutch side. I also suggest you put the throttle
element on> heating element on the clutch side and the clutch side heating
elements.> the throttle side. The Dual Star set up uses two different
the> With the clutch side bar insulated with the bicycle grip cork tape
hotter> throttle side heating element on the clutch side will still be
don't> than the clutch side heating element on the throttle side. If you
hotter> swap the heating elements the clutch side will be really a lot
and> than the throttle side. Ask Martin Earl about that. : ) I put the > heating element on the bar over the throttle tube or cork grip tape
hold it> use some sewing thread lightly wrapped around the element to help
very> in place. I don't think the adhesive on the heating elements works
it's> well. I lube the heating element with High Temperature RTV and then > slide the grip over the element. A little RTV goes a long way and
the> probably best to put most of it on the outboard end of the bars as
as a> grip will squeegee it towards the switch housings. The RTV works
it is> very slippery lube during the installation and then after 24 hours
It's> set as a very good glue, but it's easily removed later if needed.
KLR> nothing like the stock glue which seems to want to be part of the
hours> forever. Once the grips are on the bars I leave them alone for 24
hours and> so the RTV can set/cure/vulcanize. That means I don't wait 3-4
alone> then give them a twist to see how things are going. I leave them
me to> and let time do it's thing. While waiting for 24 hours that allows
accessories.> do the wiring if I want. > > Some folks like to use the city lights wiring for powering
a> I don't think the city lights wiring can effectively handle much of
control a> load. So what I like to do is use the city lights wiring to
wiring can> relay that provides power to my accessories. The city lights
fairing.> be found near the right front turn signal wiring behind the
the on> It's controlled by the key so it's only powered when the key is in
issue> or park position. I never use the park position so that's not an
wire> for me. I run a new circuit for power using maybe 12 or 14 gauge
remove> from the battery to the relay. I put a fuse in this wire near the > battery but in a location where I can get to it without having to
think. I> a side cover or seat etc. The fuse I use is rated at 10 amps I
electrical> don't want to ever use more than 10 amps on my bike as the
should> system can't charge the battery at that rate of use. The relay
You> probably be rated at 20 or 30 amps so you get longer life from it.
don't> can get one at Radio Shack or most decent auto parts stores. I
terminals> think I'd pay more than $8 for one. The relay should have four
Hook> numbered 30 (power in), 87 (power out), 85 & 86 (relay control).
which> the city lights wiring to terminals 85 & 86. It doesn't matter
fused> wire goes to which terminal in this application. Connect the new
to the> wire from the battery to terminal 30. Then connect the power wire
wire is> heated grips switch to terminal 87. I don't remember which color
wires> ground on the Dual Star heating elements but make sure those two
is in> (one from each heating element) have a good solid connection that
each, one> fact a ground. Then hook the two remaining circuits (two wires
terminals on> high and one low from each heating element) to the outboard
switch so> the three position switch provided with the kit. I mounted my
as> the movement is in a vertical orientation with up as high and down
terminal and> low. If you want to do that the high wires go on the bottom
List, My name is revmaaatin and I approve of this AD. ah, am I a week to late for that line???.... Anyway, The cork treatment used on the left grip, and using two throttle side grips over the heated pads works really well. Jeff and I thought about making the heated grip work better after reading the list for the previous two years, noting that the constant complaint was that the left grip was always cold, even when on high, it would not keep your hand warm, and the right grip was always to hot. After installing the left grip-over-cork method, the left hand is never colder, and even on low, it is good down to 35-40F. Before my heated grips were installed, Jeff had previously wired his grips, as per the dual star instructions, and after we did mine with the cork, and noticed the remarkable improvement, he reinstalled his heated grips in the grip-over-cork method. It made that much improvement. The grips we used on both our bikes were the #737 gel-grips available from Fred. I had a previously installed 'hard' Scott grip, and initially did not like the gushy feel of the gel grip, now, it is so much more comfortable, even in the off road or technical riding. revmaaatin. PS My latest winter-farkle is a 'seat/leg-heater', fully OEM-built into my borrowed, winter time, secondary-KLR. I field tested the seat/leg heater extensively while riding off road twice during the past 3 days (30-32F; wind 35mph). This field test consisted of riding on tight technical paths strewn with glacial rubble scattered on top of a rapidly unmanageable muddy crust of thinly frozen gumbo. Early on, the traction was acceptable, but as the morning progressed, the crust broke through as it was being subjected to the thawing action of the constant flow of 100F bovine urine, snot and pounding feet of the not-so-cooperative, sometimes angry bovines (aka cows)...both days, my wintertime KLR is a 4WD quarter-horse named Peanuts, powered by oatctane, not octane. No matter how good the grip heater, or the tires, a muddy stockyard is no place for a motorcycle. Just like the primary KLR, when you don't hang on to tight the the steering device (to the reigns) and let the horse help pick the best line, it goes pretty well. The seat and leg heater allowed about 3 hours of seat time before the toes were no longer effective in balancing in the stirrups. And. Peanuts has hand warmers also! If your hands get really cold while riding a horse, you can always get off and place them in the horse's arm-pits to warm them up a bit.> the low wires go on the upper terminals. > > Guess that's enough for now. I think Martin Earl covered this same > procedure in detail a few weeks ago. > > Let us know how it goes. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline
I just needed to say that I love this post. Lauren, A19 Asheville, N.C.> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 22:52:15 -0000 "hofsassw" > > writes: > > > I ordered the heated grip kit from dual star (great service by > the > > > way). > > > 1. How do I remove the stock grips? 2. Any wiring suggestions? > > > Thanks for the help! Yardman47 > > <><><><><><><><> > > <><><><><><><><> > > > > Yardman47, > > > > I suggest you cut the stock grips off with a razor blade. Then use > a > > metal file, maybe a mill bastard, to file off the ridges on the > throttle > > tube. I think that will reduce chances for damage to the heating > element > > from bending the filaments. I think I used a preparation solvent > for > > painting to clean the clutch side bar of all residue. > > > > I suggest you get two sets of grips so you have two throttle side > grips. > > The throttle side grip has a larger hole than the clutch side > grip. Then > > get some bicycle grip cork tape and wrap only one layer on the > metal > > handlebar on the clutch side. I also suggest you put the throttle > side > > heating element on the clutch side and the clutch side heating > element on > > the throttle side. The Dual Star set up uses two different > elements. > > With the clutch side bar insulated with the bicycle grip cork tape > the > > throttle side heating element on the clutch side will still be > hotter > > than the clutch side heating element on the throttle side. If you > don't > > swap the heating elements the clutch side will be really a lot > hotter > > than the throttle side. Ask Martin Earl about that. : ) I put the > > heating element on the bar over the throttle tube or cork grip tape > and > > use some sewing thread lightly wrapped around the element to help > hold it > > in place. I don't think the adhesive on the heating elements works > very > > well. I lube the heating element with High Temperature RTV and then > > slide the grip over the element. A little RTV goes a long way and > it's > > probably best to put most of it on the outboard end of the bars as > the > > grip will squeegee it towards the switch housings. The RTV works > as a > > very slippery lube during the installation and then after 24 hours > it is > > set as a very good glue, but it's easily removed later if needed. > It's > > nothing like the stock glue which seems to want to be part of the > KLR > > forever. Once the grips are on the bars I leave them alone for 24 > hours > > so the RTV can set/cure/vulcanize. That means I don't wait 3-4 > hours and > > then give them a twist to see how things are going. I leave them > alone > > and let time do it's thing. While waiting for 24 hours that allows > me to > > do the wiring if I want. > > > > Some folks like to use the city lights wiring for powering > accessories. > > I don't think the city lights wiring can effectively handle much of > a > > load. So what I like to do is use the city lights wiring to > control a > > relay that provides power to my accessories. The city lights > wiring can > > be found near the right front turn signal wiring behind the > fairing. > > It's controlled by the key so it's only powered when the key is in > the on > > or park position. I never use the park position so that's not an > issue > > for me. I run a new circuit for power using maybe 12 or 14 gauge > wire > > from the battery to the relay. I put a fuse in this wire near the > > battery but in a location where I can get to it without having to > remove > > a side cover or seat etc. The fuse I use is rated at 10 amps I > think. I > > don't want to ever use more than 10 amps on my bike as the > electrical > > system can't charge the battery at that rate of use. The relay > should > > probably be rated at 20 or 30 amps so you get longer life from it. > You > > can get one at Radio Shack or most decent auto parts stores. I > don't > > think I'd pay more than $8 for one. The relay should have four > terminals > > numbered 30 (power in), 87 (power out), 85 & 86 (relay control). > Hook > > the city lights wiring to terminals 85 & 86. It doesn't matter > which > > wire goes to which terminal in this application. Connect the new > fused > > wire from the battery to terminal 30. Then connect the power wire > to the > > heated grips switch to terminal 87. I don't remember which color > wire is > > ground on the Dual Star heating elements but make sure those two > wires > > (one from each heating element) have a good solid connection that > is in > > fact a ground. Then hook the two remaining circuits (two wires > each, one > > high and one low from each heating element) to the outboard > terminals on > > the three position switch provided with the kit. I mounted my > switch so > > the movement is in a vertical orientation with up as high and down > as > > low. If you want to do that the high wires go on the bottom > terminal and > > the low wires go on the upper terminals. > > > > Guess that's enough for now. I think Martin Earl covered this same > > procedure in detail a few weeks ago. > > > > Let us know how it goes. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > List, > My name is revmaaatin and I approve of this AD. ah, am I a week to > late for that line???.... Anyway, The cork treatment used on the > left grip, and using two throttle side grips over the heated pads > works really well. > > Jeff and I thought about making the heated grip work better after > reading the list for the previous two years, noting that the constant > complaint was that the left grip was always cold, even when on high, > it would not keep your hand warm, and the right grip was always to > hot. After installing the left grip-over-cork method, the left hand > is never colder, and even on low, it is good down to 35-40F. > > Before my heated grips were installed, Jeff had previously wired his > grips, as per the dual star instructions, and after we did mine with > the cork, and noticed the remarkable improvement, he reinstalled his > heated grips in the grip-over-cork method. It made that much > improvement. > > The grips we used on both our bikes were the #737 gel-grips available > from Fred. I had a previously installed 'hard' Scott grip, and > initially did not like the gushy feel of the gel grip, now, it is so > much more comfortable, even in the off road or technical riding. > > revmaaatin. > > PS My latest winter-farkle is a 'seat/leg-heater', fully OEM-built > into my borrowed, winter time, secondary-KLR. I field tested the > seat/leg heater extensively while riding off road twice during the > past 3 days (30-32F; wind 35mph). This field test consisted of > riding on tight technical paths strewn with glacial rubble scattered > on top of a rapidly unmanageable muddy crust of thinly frozen gumbo. > Early on, the traction was acceptable, but as the morning progressed, > the crust broke through as it was being subjected to the thawing > action of the constant flow of 100F bovine urine, snot and pounding > feet of the not-so-cooperative, sometimes angry bovines (aka > cows)...both days, my wintertime KLR is a 4WD quarter-horse named > Peanuts, powered by oatctane, not octane. No matter how good the grip > heater, or the tires, a muddy stockyard is no place for a motorcycle. > > Just like the primary KLR, when you don't hang on to tight the the > steering device (to the reigns) and let the horse help pick the best > line, it goes pretty well. The seat and leg heater allowed about 3 > hours of seat time before the toes were no longer effective in > balancing in the stirrups. > > And. Peanuts has hand warmers also! If your hands get really cold > while riding a horse, you can always get off and place them in the > horse's arm-pits to warm them up a bit. >
<><><><><><><><><><><><><>> Douglas, I think quite a few folks on the list have installed heated grips. I suppose it depends on what type or brand you have as to special attention or tricks that might be helpful. I have Moose Heated ATV grips on my KLR and they look just like the www.dual-star.com heated grip elements other than the Moose ATV grips are the same heat on each side. The Dual-Star elements are hotter on the clutch side than the throttle side but you could swap them side to side if you want. I used the Dual-Star elements first and decided to try the Moose elements hoping for a more even temperature side to side. If this is the type of heating element you have I have a couple of suggestions. Test the throttle side element for wire flexing before you install it permanently. Make sure you twist the grip through full throttle. I've found leaving a loop about two inches long or so works well to allow movement without undue flex. Wrap the left side bar with cork bicycle grip tape to insulate the element from the bar. Use two throttle side grips as the left grip will now be thicker than a motorcycle clutch side grip can slip over. I like the Pro-Grip Gel grips that Fred sells. I think I use the 737 but some folks like the 714. I also use High Temperature RTV as a lubricant and grip glue. Once the element is wrapped around the tube I take some sewing thread and lightly wrap around the element to help it hold in position while slipping the grip over the RTV and element. Let the RTV set for 24 hours before messing with the grips. Like don't test them to see how well they're sticking after 4 hours. : ) The stock grip glue is very good and you'll probably have to cut the stock grips off the throttle tube and handlebar. I filed the throttle tube ridges to provide a smooth surface for the element. I wired my heated grips with a high, off, low switch. Even low is too hot most of the time. Yes too hot even when riding in the 20s. So the next thing I'm planning on doing to make the heating elements really adjustable is install a Heat Troller dual grip heater control. They are really pricey at about $120 but I'm pretty sure that will beat turning the grip heaters on and off every few minutes. Hope this is helpful. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> Hi! I'm instalingl heated hand grips - is there anything I should > take special care with? Anyone do this themselves before?? > > Thanks/ride on
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007 02:10:59 +0000 douglasfiorella@... writes: > > Hi! I'm instalingl heated hand grips - is there anything I should > > take special care with? Anyone do this themselves before?? > > > > Thanks/ride on > <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><>> > > Douglas, > > I think quite a few folks on the list have installed heated grips. I > suppose it depends on what type or brand you have as to special attention > or tricks that might be helpful. > > I have Moose Heated ATV grips on my KLR and they look just like the > www.dual-star.com heated grip elements other than the Moose ATV grips are > the same heat on each side. The Dual-Star elements are hotter on the > clutch side than the throttle side but you could swap them side to side > if you want. I used the Dual-Star elements first and decided to try the > Moose elements hoping for a more even temperature side to side. > > If this is the type of heating element you have I have a couple of > suggestions. Test the throttle side element for wire flexing before you > install it permanently. Make sure you twist the grip through full > throttle. I've found leaving a loop about two inches long or so works > well to allow movement without undue flex. Wrap the left side bar with > cork bicycle grip tape to insulate the element from the bar. Use two > throttle side grips as the left grip will now be thicker than a > motorcycle clutch side grip can slip over. I like the Pro-Grip Gel grips > that Fred sells. I think I use the 737 but some folks like the 714. I > also use High Temperature RTV as a lubricant and grip glue. Once the > element is wrapped around the tube I take some sewing thread and lightly > wrap around the element to help it hold in position while slipping the > grip over the RTV and element. Let the RTV set for 24 hours before > messing with the grips. Like don't test them to see how well they're > sticking after 4 hours. : ) The stock grip glue is very good and you'll > probably have to cut the stock grips off the throttle tube and handlebar. > I filed the throttle tube ridges to provide a smooth surface for the > element. > > I wired my heated grips with a high, off, low switch. Even low is too > hot most of the time. Yes too hot even when riding in the 20s. So the > next thing I'm planning on doing to make the heating elements really > adjustable is install a Heat Troller dual grip heater control. They are > really pricey at about $120 but I'm pretty sure that will beat turning > the grip heaters on and off every few minutes. > > Hope this is helpful. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >
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