[dsn_klr650] valve shims

[Fred Hink]

Problem solved.       [b]From:[/b] foolstools@... [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 12:03 PM [b]To:[/b] moabmc@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] valve shims   Man, am I glad to hear back from you! I was about to unbolt and lift the cam and.... checked email one last time. You're right on two counts: - .0015 inches not mm - The lobes were pointing toward each other.  No wonder I was having such a tough time getting the feelers in there. Clearances are all .007" except right exhaust is .009" I had set them at maximum specs last time at 6,000 miles. Thanks [i]very[/i] much! Dave     On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 9:30 AM, Fred Hink wrote:

Did you mean you used .0015 INCHES?  This is very thin and in MM would be almost see-through.  If your .0015 feeler gage is not absolutely flat and clean it will be hard to get it to go through this gap.  Any kind of dirt, wrinkle or crease in the feeler gage will make it difficult to use accurately.   Do you know where the valve clearances were set at 6000 miles?  It concerns me that you have only done the valve check once in this many miles.  It usually takes about 3-4 checks before the valves stabilize and they stay in spec for a long time.  There are two positions that your cams can be in on TDC, one correct and the other not correct.  To check your cam lobes should be facing away from each other at TDC.  If they are facing each other at TDC, then this could be your problem.   I have lots of shims in case you can t find any.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] foolstools@... [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 9:23 AM [b]To:[/b] moabmc@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] valve shims   Thanks for your reply Fred. I wondered the same thing: How could this be running with no problems or indications other than some pinging under load?  No problem starting and runs fine when warmed up.  I used a .0015mm feeler, the thinnest in the pack, and it made it partially under the lobes, but wouldn't slide all the way through.  This is the second adjustment, the first at 6000 miles, now 26000.  It's a 2003 model. I knew all the reasons to adjust, but never made the time to do it.  Yes, the MarkNet site is fantastic.  I have it printed out, on my workbench as I've taken things apart.  The engine is sitting at TDC. The lobes are at their flattest in relation to the shims. If I ruined the valve seats I imagine there would be lots of smoke coming out the exhaust?  Seems okay.  Hopefully my local NAPA has 29mm shims so I can get on with this today.  I read that other vehicles use them, such as a 2000 F650.  If not you'll be hearing from me later. Thanks again, Dave   On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 1:43 AM, Fred Hink wrote: Is your engine still running?  Does it run when it is cold and then stops running or behave differently when warmed up?  What size feeler gage did you try?  I doubt that you have zero clearance as it would not run that way for long.  When your engine warms up and metal expands this would keep the valve from closing.  So depending on what size feeler gage you tried, the clearance would be something less than that.  So if you tried a .002 feeler gage I  would guess your clearance to be .001 .  You may have already done some serious erosion to your valves and valve seats by running your valves this tight.  It is good to check your valves more often than 20K just so you know what they are doing.  New bikes that have been broken in and adjusted a time or two most likely can go a long time before needing adjustment again but you just can t be sure without checking.  Adjust your valves to the widest measurement within specifications and they will stay in adjustment longer, as all KLR s valve clearances will get tighter with use.  It is a common fallacy that valves only need to be adjusted when they become noisy.  Since KLRs get tighter with age, this noise or ticking never happens unless you have other serious problems.   If you have a shim kit I d suggest making an initial adjustment using zero clearance as your starting point.  It s not going to be any less than that as your engine wouldn t be running.  Set the clearance to with wide side of specs.  This may take a time or two as you don t really know what clearances you are starting with.    Lots of good info here:  http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com (a happy valve is a tappy valve)   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 12:15 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] valve shims     I knew 20k miles was too long to wait, but here I am measuring current clearances and not able to get the thinnest feeler under any cam lobe.  Do I just call 'em zero, take 'em out and add shims sized for the specified clearance? .... Dave

   

[Chris]

I just fixed my speedometer drive, with Watt-Man's help. If there is enough hub remaining to support the wheel bearing, the fix is to drill a small hole in the hub and insert a pin. The pin drives the speedometer drive plate. I fixed two hubs with Watt-Man's drill jig ($25 to rent, with $50 deposit). Contact him at watt-man@... I also bought a new speedometer drive assembly ($80 from ronayers.com). VERY nice to have a working speedometer/odometer again. And very nice to not have to replace a wheel _again_. regards, Chris

[Ateam]

I choose to buy a used wheel and new hub assembly.  Please update later and advise how the Watt Man pin trick is working.  Used 2006 wheel shipped to me for $225.  I feel lucky but really considered this.  Just seems like it won t hold up over maybe 5000 miles?  Good luck.   Ateam   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 1:06 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] fix your speedometer drive    

I just fixed my speedometer drive, with Watt-Man's help. If there is enough hub remaining to support the wheel bearing, the fix is to drill a small hole in the hub and insert a pin. The pin drives the speedometer drive plate. I fixed two hubs with Watt-Man's drill jig ($25 to rent, with $50 deposit). Contact him at watt-man@... I also bought a new speedometer drive assembly ($80 from ronayers.com).  VERY nice to have a working speedometer/odometer again. And very nice to not have to replace a wheel _again_. regards, Chris

[jeffsaline]

#ygrps-yiv-585829975 .ygrps-yiv-585829975ygrp-photo-title { OVERFLOW:hidden;FONT-SIZE:smaller;HEIGHT:15px;WIDTH:75px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975ygrp-photo { BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 P { OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-TOP:15px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-585829975 DIV.ygrps-yiv-585829975ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} On Tue, 21 Jul 2015 19:33:10 -0600 "'Ateam' ateam@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   I choose to buy a used wheel and new hub assembly.  Please update later and advise how the Watt Man pin trick is working.  Used 2006 wheel shipped to me for $225.  I feel lucky but really considered this.  Just seems like it won t hold up over maybe 5000 miles?  Good luck.   Ateam   From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 1:06 PM To: KLR650 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] fix your speedometer drive   I just fixed my speedometer drive, with Watt-Man's help. If there is enough hub remaining to support the wheel bearing, the fix is to drill a small hole in the hub and insert a pin. The pin drives the speedometer drive plate. I fixed two hubs with Watt-Man's drill jig ($25 to rent, with $50 deposit). Contact him at watt-man@... I also bought a new speedometer drive assembly ($80 from ronayers.com). VERY nice to have a working speedometer/odometer again. And very nice to not have to replace a wheel _again_. regards,   Chris <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><>   Ateam,   I've seen pictures of the Wattman fix and one of the last few times we talked we discussed this repair procedure.  I'll suggest the Wattman fix should be considered permanent and used with full confidence.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Want to place your ad here?[/b] Advertise on United Online www.adsonar.com