misrepresented??? (nklr)

DSN_KLR650
mark ward
Posts: 1027
Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am

misrepresented??? (nklr)

Post by mark ward » Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:27 pm

I could send you my change jar, But I would end up using the money in it, to pay for shipping, and all you would end up with is a Change JAR. LOL  On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 8:20 PM, "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
  A superior means of dispelling the rich label which you have acquired would be to send large sums of cash to me. I can acknowledge the receipt and you can use that to justify that you are, at least, no longer wealthy. No need to thank me, helping with your extreme wealth problem will be sufficient in itself. #ygrps-yiv-921558684 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 -- #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-921558684 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-921558684 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-921558684 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-921558684 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825 #ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-921558684yiv8194120825ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-921558684 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Stephen H. Reichman
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2015 7:41 am

what i hate about the klr....................

Post by Stephen H. Reichman » Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:41 am

I can related with that dislike (with a capital "D") of battery placement. One solution I'm using is I have a lead coming from the positive side of my coil. It is covered properly all the time until needed. It is the same gauge wire and an automotive battery lead. When I need to jump start. I remove the cap from my positive lead, connect positive jumper cable connector to my new positive lead and negative jumper connector to my shifter shaft and jump start. Been on the bike several years and used it 2 or 3 times. No side panel or seat removal. A friend and very motorcycle mechanically savvy Harley rider showed me this solution he's used on his bike for years. The lead stays tucked behind my center stand lifter handle. ...another solution to consider. Ride safe my friends! Sent from my iPhone

libertyeagle
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 12:28 pm

what i hate about the klr....................

Post by libertyeagle » Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:53 am

Eddie, I must stand with you on this mountain we shall die, see I have hard cases on my KLR and I have to dissemble the entire mountain brackets and all to get to the battery. Royal PIA! The solution I have, every vehicle I own, KLR included has an external 2 pine SAE connector (battery tender plug) along with a little kit of adapters, including one for a USB plug, my tire pump, a set of mini jumper cables, and a lighter plug. And things like my generator and battery charger and such all have the same plug. This means not having to tear things apart if only a dead battery, being able to run portable things like my phone charger off anything, and many hassles saved over the last 4 years since I came up with this. Now let's discuss the insanity of the BMW $1000 drive shaft on the adventurer model that they made about 1/4 in different than all the other bikes with same system, ugh! Michael

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

what i hate about the klr....................

Post by Norm Keller » Wed Jun 24, 2015 11:00 am

#ygrps-yiv-1962690735 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1962690735cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1962690735cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 .ygrps-yiv-1962690735plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 .ygrps-yiv-1962690735plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1962690735 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 .ygrps-yiv-1962690735plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1962690735 .ygrps-yiv-1962690735plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} I agree Eddie about the battery access but then agreeing with the patently obvious draws no glory. :-) Jumping is simpler if one connects to the battery cable on the starter relay, FWIW. My objections are: - the location of the fuses on top of the battery which are easily relocated to near the side stand switch. Seat is easy to modify to slide off but why not from factory? I cut the mounting ears to form hooks, install shoulder bolts in place of the standard bolts and place a big pad of Velcro onto the inner fender/seat area. Works a treat.   -that the headlight fuse is fed from the brown wire which is daffy because the less important components such as horn and turn signals are protected from the headlight circuit rather than the reverse. I'd rather lose the horn or signals than the headlight....   -the white wire circuit...don't get me started... - that silly loop which places the Gen2 rear brake hose into a perfect snag position.   -plastic engine guard???? Why?   - the almost certain to rip off, license plate mounting which is, IMO, dangerous.   - bowl vent...on both generations   - clutch cable should be larger in diameter, IMO.   - needs the KLR600 rear shock gravel shield from factory...or at least a rubber flap.   -195 F thermostat + by pass passage as every modern automotive and bike.   - Side stands need larger flat feet rather than the small ones with the rim. Gen2 seems to be too high.   - front brake master cylinder bore could be 1 mm smaller.   - why not use the Versys front caliper on Gen2 rather than the smaller double piston which has the same piston area as the Gen1?   - fuel filler cap should push to latch without key so (PITA) key doesn't have to be used to close and relatch.   Of course an even worse decision would be to have me design the KLR.  ;-) Tongue in cheek for me as these are suggestions for improvement in most cases rather than strong complaints. Great thread idea.

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