steer stem r&r

[RobertWichert]

Got it. I checked the exciter and the pickup both. Both were within resistance spec. I'll check to ground next. Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 2/3/2014 11:44 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Mon, 03 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 RobertWichert > writes: >> Thanks Jeff, but when you said: >> >> "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need >> a >> battery." >> >> I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are >> the stator? >> >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C >> +1 916 966 9060 >> FAX +1 916 966 9068 > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Robert, > > The KLR stator has two parts. One is for charging and that is the three > yellow wires. The other is for the ignition system and is the exciter > and that is two wires, white and red. I think they change color shortly > after exiting the stator/cover with white connecting to black/white and > red remains connected to red. > > You should be able to test the wires for continuity by testing the white > to the red. While watching the meter move the wires and see if the > reading changes. If you get an open something is wrong. You should also > be able to do the same kind of test with the pickup wires which are black > and black/yellow. > > An additional test you can do is to test each lead to ground/engine case. > If you get a reading the wire is shorted to ground and that is a > problem. If you can't find a short in the wire it indicates the exciter > or pickup is bad depending on which wires you are testing. You can > unsolder the wires at the component and check again. Replacing wires is > an option. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) > 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52eff1e29242271e279f6st02vuc > > >

[RobertWichert]

I checked both the exciter and the pickup, both, for resistance. They were OK. I'll check to ground next. Thanks to all! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 2/3/2014 11:37 AM, Mike Huber wrote:

[sh8knj8kster]

On 17 Mar 2014 07:55:37 -0700 writes:

I am going to do the steering head again next winter. At that time I will be ready to do the welder bit and will be ready to cut a bevel in the bearing seats using a hand drill. That is to allow a drift to get a hold of the inner edge of the outer race. I will sort out how to make the tool to cut the bevels before then and will make it available somehow after that. I think Kawi forgot to cut the bevel after they beefed up the unside of the neck tube <><><><><><>

<><><><><><>

 

Chris,

 

If I was going to add a bevel to the steering head so I could knockout the lower bearing...  Like Mark posted...  I would try a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.  I think a guy that was motivated could do it with the race in place.

 

Best,

Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650

Not sure if this will help anyone but when I remove steer stem races, they way I go about it is:

to remove the lower race, and this is with the steer stem removed of course but mentioning for clarification...I use a mini crows foot bar coming up from underneath.  The small crows foot bars will fit inside the race ID and always caught the top of the race, all around

I ten use a drift from above to tap on the crows foot bar, moving the tools around the circumference tapping away.  Never fails to remove a lower steer stem race 

the upper race is removed using the same drift coming at it from below, through the bottom of the steer stem.  BTW, I've never found the need to heat the race to remove using the aforementioned technique, but I will stick the new races in the freezer before installing, making them contract a bit

I have some small metal pieces, flat maybe a 1/4" thick, rectangular yet small enough to fit inside the neck where the races seat.  I place the metal block against the race and tap the block with my hammer to seat the race, being mindful to tap light enough to ensure the race seats squarely

Hope This Helps

Best,

Jake

Reddick Fla. 

"Beware of strong drink for it can make you shoot at Tax Collectors . . . And MISS."

[RobertWichert]

OK, I finally got a break from work (I am a Professional Engineer in private practice, so every client thinks that I work for him or her and nobody else. It's been MORE THAN A MONTH since my bike has run. And today I got pissed off and got enough of a break from paid work (still a couple of unpaid favors not done and some projects with deadlines later in the week, but I can't stand it any longer) that I decided to chuck everything else and work on the bike. I took the wiring outer shield off at the left side case and took off the engine mount and disconnected the plugs to check for grounds, BUT WAIT! I see a crimp in the shield up by the engine mount. It was a nasty crimp. I could see the conductor. So that's not a good thing, but it's good that I found it. I stripped back the outer shield and the wire was crushed down to the conductor. Probably would have shown a short to ground, but once I took the engine mount apart, which probably was what was pinching it, it would not have shown a ground. I stripped it, soldered it, shrink wrapped it and plugged it back in. SPARK! WE HAVE SPARK! So once I got it back together, it started, so that's a good thing. I got out the pressure washer and cleaned it up, but I haven't ridden it yet. Tomorrow for that. Thanks for all the support! Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

On 2/4/2014 7:29 AM, RobertWichert wrote:

I checked both the exciter and the pickup, both, for resistance. They were OK. I'll check to ground next. Thanks to all! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 11:37 AM, Mike Huber wrote: The ignition is powered by the exiter coil which is part of the stator assembly......the exiter produces the power to the ignition coil and the pickup coil triggers it to fire the sparkplug....you might check your restance readings again and also check them from each exiter wire to ground ....you may have a short to ground....I had a exiter go out on me 30 miles from the north rim of the Grand Canyon a few years ago.....Long story but I ended up replacing the stator /exiter coil assembly with an 240 watt upgrade unit and it works just fine and I have more power for all my gadgets and farkles !!!! I believe Fred has them ....Thanx again Fred !!!! To: salinej1@... CC: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: robert@... Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Long sad story Thanks Jeff, but when you said: "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a battery." I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are the stator? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 6:30 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 21:18:01 -0800 RobertWichert robert@... > writes: >> Thanks, Jeff... >> >> Two good nuggets in your post. >> >> 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause >> the >> problem, right? >> >> 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Robert > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > The yellow stator wires have nothing to do with the ignition system. > You can run a Gen I KLR with no battery and the regulator/rectifier > unplugged. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > > __________________________________________________________ > Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) > 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52efa82ca03bb282c5ef7st01vuc > > >

[Eddie]

The engine mount plate shaped like a Dorito? I crushed my neutral light wire behind that one on my former 09' once and didn't know it until the shop owner was rolling out the driveway after closing up for the night with the shop key in his pocket and me without one. =/ eddie

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, March 18, 2014 9:52 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Long sad story   OK, I finally got a break from work (I am a Professional Engineer in private practice, so every client thinks that I work for him or her and nobody else.  It's been MORE THAN A MONTH since my bike has run.  And today I got pissed off and got enough of a break from paid work (still a couple of unpaid favors not done and some projects with deadlines later in the week, but I can't stand it any longer) that I decided to chuck everything else and work on the bike. I took the wiring outer shield off at the left side case and took off the engine mount and disconnected the plugs to check for grounds, BUT WAIT! I see a crimp in the shield up by the engine mount.  It was a nasty crimp.  I could see the conductor.  So that's not a good thing, but it's good that I found it.  I stripped back the outer shield and the wire was crushed down to the conductor.  Probably would have shown a short to ground, but once I took the engine mount apart, which probably was what was pinching it, it would not have shown a ground. I stripped it, soldered it, shrink wrapped it and plugged it back in.  SPARK!  WE HAVE SPARK! So once I got it back together, it started, so that's a good thing. I got out the pressure washer and cleaned it up, but I haven't ridden it yet.  Tomorrow for that. Thanks for all the support! Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 On 2/4/2014 7:29 AM, RobertWichert wrote:  

I

[Fred Hink]

This is another good example at how I try to diagnose motorcycle problems.  Modern motorcycles seldom fail on their own.  In my experience I can track a problem to something that the owner did or failed to do.  I d say about 90% of most motorcycle issues are human caused.  So this gives me a good place to start looking for any problem.  Look at what was done to the motorcycle recently and you ll probably find your answers.  Motorcycles seldom fail all on their own.  I d say you may also find about 10% of problems created by owners failure to do maintenance and less than .5% caused by manufacturer defects and warranty issues. (improper assembly is a human problem)  These numbers can be +/- but I think you get the meaning.   I have seen a number of KLRs with a pinched wire from the upper motor mount nut that is shaped like an L.  It will spin when tightened and catch the main wire harness and pinch the wires if not careful.  It is a poor design but if you are careful and watch out for the wires, works just fine.   Human nature is that we try to be perfect and don t make mistakes, so it must be somebody else s fault.  It is difficult to think that we may have caused a problem and soon as you understand that we all do make mistakes it helps you find your answers to why something failed sooner. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, March 18, 2014 7:52 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Long sad story     OK, I finally got a break from work (I am a Professional Engineer in private practice, so every client thinks that I work for him or her and nobody else.  It's been MORE THAN A MONTH since my bike has run.  And today I got pissed off and got enough of a break from paid work (still a couple of unpaid favors not done and some projects with deadlines later in the week, but I can't stand it any longer) that I decided to chuck everything else and work on the bike. I took the wiring outer shield off at the left side case and took off the engine mount and disconnected the plugs to check for grounds, BUT WAIT! I see a crimp in the shield up by the engine mount.  It was a nasty crimp.  I could see the conductor.  So that's not a good thing, but it's good that I found it.  I stripped back the outer shield and the wire was crushed down to the conductor.  Probably would have shown a short to ground, but once I took the engine mount apart, which probably was what was pinching it, it would not have shown a ground. I stripped it, soldered it, shrink wrapped it and plugged it back in.  SPARK!  WE HAVE SPARK! So once I got it back together, it started, so that's a good thing. I got out the pressure washer and cleaned it up, but I haven't ridden it yet.  Tomorrow for that. Thanks for all the support! Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

On 2/4/2014 7:29 AM, RobertWichert wrote:   I checked both the exciter and the pickup, both, for resistance.  They were OK.  I'll check to ground next. Thanks to all! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 11:37 AM, Mike Huber wrote:

The ignition is powered by the exiter coil which is part of the stator assembly......the exiter produces the power to the ignition coil and the pickup coil triggers it to fire the sparkplug....you might check your restance readings again and also check them from each exiter wire to ground ....you may have a short to ground....I had a exiter go out on me 30 miles from the north rim of the Grand Canyon a few years ago.....Long story but I ended up replacing the stator /exiter coil assembly with an 240 watt upgrade unit and it works just fine and I have more power for all my gadgets and farkles !!!! I believe Fred has them ....Thanx again Fred !!!!   To: salinej1@... CC: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: robert@... Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Long sad story   Thanks Jeff, but when you said: "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a battery." I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are the stator? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 6:30 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 21:18:01 -0800 RobertWichert robert@... > writes: >> Thanks, Jeff... >> >> Two good nuggets in your post. >> >> 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause >> the >> problem, right? >> >> 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Robert > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > The yellow stator wires have nothing to do with the ignition system. > You can run a Gen I KLR with no battery and the regulator/rectifier > unplugged. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > > __________________________________________________________ > Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) > 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52efa82ca03bb282c5ef7st01vuc > > >

[RobertWichert]

???????????????????? OK, I need more details to understand that one. The neutral wire allowed you back into the shop? I don't get it yet. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 3/18/2014 8:01 PM, eddie wrote:

The engine mount plate shaped like a Dorito? I crushed my neutral light wire behind that one on my former 09' once and didn't know it until the shop owner was rolling out the driveway after closing up for the night with the shop key in his pocket and me without one. =/ eddie ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, March 18, 2014 9:52 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Long sad story OK, I finally got a break from work (I am a Professional Engineer in private practice, so every client thinks that I work for him or her and nobody else. It's been MORE THAN A MONTH since my bike has run. And today I got pissed off and got enough of a break from paid work (still a couple of unpaid favors not done and some projects with deadlines later in the week, but I can't stand it any longer) that I decided to chuck everything else and work on the bike. I took the wiring outer shield off at the left side case and took off the engine mount and disconnected the plugs to check for grounds, BUT WAIT! I see a crimp in the shield up by the engine mount. It was a nasty crimp. I could see the conductor. So that's not a good thing, but it's good that I found it. I stripped back the outer shield and the wire was crushed down to the conductor. Probably would have shown a short to ground, but once I took the engine mount apart, which probably was what was pinching it, it would not have shown a ground. I stripped it, soldered it, shrink wrapped it and plugged it back in. SPARK! WE HAVE SPARK! So once I got it back together, it started, so that's a good thing. I got out the pressure washer and cleaned it up, but I haven't ridden it yet. Tomorrow for that. Thanks for all the support! Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 On 2/4/2014 7:29 AM, RobertWichert wrote: I

[RobertWichert]

Just for the record, I never blamed it on the bike. I knew that it was something that I did when I had the bike down for fixing the oil leak. I actually thought that it was the way I got the stripped screw out (a welder friend welded a nice round bubble bead on the head of the screw) and I thought that might have fried the exciter or pickup). The FIRST thing to ask yourself whenever a problem occurs is "What did I work on last"? Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 3/19/2014 7:21 AM, Fred Hink wrote:

This is another good example at how I try to diagnose motorcycle problems. Modern motorcycles seldom fail on their own. In my experience I can track a problem to something that the owner did or failed to do. I d say about 90% of most motorcycle issues are human caused. So this gives me a good place to start looking for any problem. Look at what was done to the motorcycle recently and you ll probably find your answers. Motorcycles seldom fail all on their own. I d say you may also find about 10% of problems created by owners failure to do maintenance and less than .5% caused by manufacturer defects and warranty issues. (improper assembly is a human problem) These numbers can be +/- but I think you get the meaning. I have seen a number of KLRs with a pinched wire from the upper motor mount nut that is shaped like an L. It will spin when tightened and catch the main wire harness and pinch the wires if not careful. It is a poor design but if you are careful and watch out for the wires, works just fine. Human nature is that we try to be perfect and don t make mistakes, so it must be somebody else s fault. It is difficult to think that we may have caused a problem and soon as you understand that we all do make mistakes it helps you find your answers to why something failed sooner. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, March 18, 2014 7:52 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Long sad story OK, I finally got a break from work (I am a Professional Engineer in private practice, so every client thinks that I work for him or her and nobody else. It's been MORE THAN A MONTH since my bike has run. And today I got pissed off and got enough of a break from paid work (still a couple of unpaid favors not done and some projects with deadlines later in the week, but I can't stand it any longer) that I decided to chuck everything else and work on the bike. I took the wiring outer shield off at the left side case and took off the engine mount and disconnected the plugs to check for grounds, BUT WAIT! I see a crimp in the shield up by the engine mount. It was a nasty crimp. I could see the conductor. So that's not a good thing, but it's good that I found it. I stripped back the outer shield and the wire was crushed down to the conductor. Probably would have shown a short to ground, but once I took the engine mount apart, which probably was what was pinching it, it would not have shown a ground. I stripped it, soldered it, shrink wrapped it and plugged it back in. SPARK! WE HAVE SPARK! So once I got it back together, it started, so that's a good thing. I got out the pressure washer and cleaned it up, but I haven't ridden it yet. Tomorrow for that. Thanks for all the support! Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 On 2/4/2014 7:29 AM, RobertWichert wrote: I checked both the exciter and the pickup, both, for resistance. They were OK. I'll check to ground next. Thanks to all! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 11:37 AM, Mike Huber wrote: The ignition is powered by the exiter coil which is part of the stator assembly......the exiter produces the power to the ignition coil and the pickup coil triggers it to fire the sparkplug....you might check your restance readings again and also check them from each exiter wire to ground ....you may have a short to ground....I had a exiter go out on me 30 miles from the north rim of the Grand Canyon a few years ago.....Long story but I ended up replacing the stator /exiter coil assembly with an 240 watt upgrade unit and it works just fine and I have more power for all my gadgets and farkles !!!! I believe Fred has them ....Thanx again Fred !!!! To: salinej1@... CC: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: robert@... Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Long sad story Thanks Jeff, but when you said: "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a battery." I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are the stator? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/3/2014 6:30 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 21:18:01 -0800 RobertWichert robert@... > writes: >> Thanks, Jeff... >> >> Two good nuggets in your post. >> >> 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause >> the >> problem, right? >> >> 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Robert > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > The yellow stator wires have nothing to do with the ignition system. > You can run a Gen I KLR with no battery and the regulator/rectifier > unplugged. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > > __________________________________________________________ > Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) > 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52efa82ca03bb282c5ef7st01vuc > > >

[Norm Keller]

 

Glad that you found the problem, Robert but hadn't realized that you also seem to prefer working on bikes over riding. When you have solved all the problems at hand, there's nothing quite so effective as a pressure washer to introduce some more.

 

Running for cover,

 

Norm

 

P.S. Kidding aside. Glad you got it solved.

[RobertWichert]

Yes, good point... I do like it to be clean though... :  ) Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 3/19/2014 9:50 AM, Norm Keller wrote:

    Glad that you found the problem, Robert but hadn't realized that you also seem to prefer working on bikes over riding. When you have solved all the problems at hand, there's nothing quite so effective as a pressure washer to introduce some more.   Running for cover,   Norm   P.S. Kidding aside. Glad you got it solved.