klr long term storage question

[andy.helmstetter]

I have been reading some of the posts concerning the tank slapping and saw some comments about the steering head and clunking. While I do not seem to have the tank slapping (knock on wood), I do have the clunk when I hit bumps or road irregularities. It would seem that I have to tighten my steering head. My question is, should I be concerned about replacing any bearings yet? Thanks for your time, Andy

[Fred Hink]

You will find out as soon as you tighten your bearings. If they feel notchy , then you will need to replace them. If your steering is smooth, they are good to go. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: andy.helmstetter Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:21 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Head Clunk I have been reading some of the posts concerning the tank slapping and saw some comments about the steering head and clunking. While I do not seem to have the tank slapping (knock on wood), I do have the clunk when I hit bumps or road irregularities. It would seem that I have to tighten my steering head. My question is, should I be concerned about replacing any bearings yet? Thanks for your time, Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Nichols]

I'd tighten them while on a lift. I have read you should adjust the bearings so there's a little drag. If they have been damaged they will feel notchy when you turn the bars, the bearings will have created dents in the races. To be certain, replacing them is best. They aren't expensive and it's pretty easy to do. -David ________________________________ From: andy.helmstetter To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 9:21 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Head Clunk I have been reading some of the posts concerning the tank slapping and saw some comments about the steering head and clunking. While I do not seem to have the tank slapping (knock on wood), I do have the clunk when I hit bumps or road irregularities. It would seem that I have to tighten my steering head. My question is, should I be concerned about replacing any bearings yet? Thanks for your time, Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[andy.helmstetter]

OK, even with all the technical jargon (notchy) I think I have it. I have a lift available, so I will make use of that. I was thinking the same thing about replacing the bearings anyway. Should I go with stock, or are there better aftermarket options? I realize of course that this is a loaded question. Andy

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 16:38:47 -0000 "andy.helmstetter" writes:

> OK, even with all the technical jargon (notchy) I think I have it. I > have a lift available, so I will make use of that. I was thinking > the same thing about replacing the bearings anyway. > Should I go with stock, or are there better aftermarket options? > I realize of course that this is a loaded question. > > Andy

<><><><><> <><><><><> Andy, I used the kit from AllBalls when I did my KLR a few years ago. As I recall I had to do something "different" with the seal but made it work. The bearings were fine. You can get one of the bearings, I think it's the lower but don't remember for sure, from NAPA. Cost used to be about $16. It's the same bearing that BMW Airheads used for about 25 years. I don't know about the upper bearing coming from NAPA. Here's a bit of info I posted to an Airheads list a few years ago. It's about the same for a KLR. NAPA bearing: HR 320/28XJ NDK Japan A (NAPA Part BR32) I've got the bearing race removal tool but the last few I've removed I've used a wire feed (MIG) welder on the races. Weld a bead around the inside of the race and after about 30 seconds as the weld cools it contracts the race and you can probably remove it with your fingers (wearing gloves). If you have the replacement race ready to install (frozen) you can immediately install it while the steering head is still hot. Use the race you just removed as a driver as it is now permanently smaller than the hole the race fits in. You can also weld a washer inside the race which gives a drift something to touch as you pop out the old race. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 57 But Looks 27 Mom publishes simple facelift trick that angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50a2c2448a85242447879st01vuc

[Stephen North]

Jeff, point taken about the blanket statement. Depending on where the OP lives and stores the bike, condensation / humidity may or may not be a problem. Here in the Northeast corrosion is a fact of life. Since moisture can be introduced in a myriad of ways (water main break, flooding etc.) even Into a normally dry environment, I would take every precaution I could especially if I was away and could not check on things. Best, Steve Stitches Afloat LLC 4580 Harbor Road Shelburne Vermont 05482 802-985-9547 www.stitchesafloat.com stitchesafloat@...