many klr parts for sale nklr

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Gotta thin out stuff to make room for car parts for my '81 RX7, and property taxes are due, so.... I have many used (and some new) OEM parts from KLR605s fitting years '87-2007. I also have two parted-out Tengais. I also have hard-anodized KLR250 fork lowers and a new take-off KLR250 headlight mount. I have many, many valve shims, especially in the 260-275 range. Some aftermarket items of interest include: - a Progressive Shock body with 0-miles since warranty service. - Dynojet kit - grip heaters Lemme know if you need anything. Include the year of your bike, and part number if possible, and I'll see if I have it. For pricing, set a general ballpark figure of 50% of ronayers.com prices. Many "low-demand parts" , well-loved, or high-mileage parts will be go for much lower. Item's that I'm sure I don't have or won't sell: -low-mileage complete engines -Tengai body plastic Thanks! Mark

[Jud]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> > I have many, many valve shims, especially in the 260-275 range. >

Great. I suppose you are hoarding all the ones in the 230-245 range.

[RobertWichert]

Can we sand them down? : ) Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 8/10/2012 7:17 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Tengai Mark Van Horn > wrote: > > > > I have many, many valve shims, especially in the 260-275 range. > > > > Great. I suppose you are hoarding all the ones in the 230-245 range. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

I say you can if you're careful. I once sanded a shim down one notch in a pinch (may have been 2 notches... it's been quite a while). What I did was to place a new sheet of either 240 or 280 face-up on a pane of glass and rubbed the shim back & forth and in circular patterns. I measured the thickness with a micrometer. When it got closer to the desired thickness, I switched the paper to 400, then 800, then 1000, with a final polish of 2000. Mark At 7:12 AM -0700 8/11/12, RobertWichert wrote: Can we sand them down? : ) Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 8/10/2012 7:17 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Tengai Mark Van Horn > wrote: > > > > I have many, many valve shims, especially in the 260-275 range. > > > > Great. I suppose you are hoarding all the ones in the 230-245 range. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

Good work, Mark! I suppose with a surface grinder, we could go into business! Cheers! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 8/11/2012 8:44 AM, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > I say you can if you're careful. > I once sanded a shim down one notch in a pinch (may have been 2 > notches... it's been quite a while). > What I did was to place a new sheet of either 240 or 280 face-up on > a pane of glass and rubbed the shim back & forth and in circular > patterns. I measured the thickness with a micrometer. When it got > closer to the desired thickness, I switched the paper to 400, then > 800, then 1000, with a final polish of 2000. > > Mark > > At 7:12 AM -0700 8/11/12, RobertWichert wrote: > > Can we sand them down? > > : ) > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > On 8/10/2012 7:17 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > , Tengai Mark Van Horn > > wrote: > > > > > > I have many, many valve shims, especially in the 260-275 range. > > > > > > > Great. I suppose you are hoarding all the ones in the 230-245 range. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[k650@verizon.net]

Back in the '80's when I used to do a lot of head work in the machine shop you would have to wait a week or more for replacement shims and the garages wanted the heads back ASAP so I used to surface grind shims for engines with similar cam setups. The important thing to remember is the cam lobes and the shims are hardened to a similar hardness. If not you can have premature wear. Sometimes the shims are only surface hardened so removing material will remove the hardness. For this reason it is best practice to place the shim with the resurfaced side in the bucket and leave the untouched side to ride on the cam lobe. Walt -----Original Message----- Good work, Mark! I suppose with a surface grinder, we could go into business! Cheers! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 8/11/2012 8:44 AM, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > I say you can if you're careful. > I once sanded a shim down one notch in a pinch (may have been 2 > notches... it's been quite a while). > What I did was to place a new sheet of either 240 or 280 face-up on > a pane of glass and rubbed the shim back & forth and in circular > patterns. I measured the thickness with a micrometer. When it got > closer to the desired thickness, I switched the paper to 400, then > 800, then 1000, with a final polish of 2000. > > Mark > >

[Lourd Baltimore]

I don't understand. It's an election year. Why are we being bombarded with useful, practical, and insightful posts like this? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]