--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Nichols wrote: > > As I understand it (feel free to add to this or correct me), loosening the balancer adjustment bolt allows the spring to pull the chain tensioner tighter. Tapping on the bolt makes sure it is working freely and not crimped to the case, which may happen if too much torque is used to tighten the balancer adjustment bolt. > > > ________________________________ > From: "Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery)" > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, July 9, 2012 12:56 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Why does this work??? > > > > On Marknet there is a procedure for balancer adjustment located at the > link below and listing the following steps. I have no doubt that they > are correct and have used several of his procedure write ups with > success, but I am curious. How does this adjust the chain? Is it simply > unlocking something to allow the cam chain tensioner to do its thing? > Can someone explain the mechanics of this? > > http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Balancer_Adjust.pdf. > > 3. Loosen balancer bolt just enough to be free of the lock tension, > about a quarter turn CCW. Disregard this step if the bolt's already > loose! > 4. Tighten bolt back just to the point where it grabs, then back it off > again, one half turn CCW. > 5. Lightly tap bolt head with plastic mallet. > 6. Tighten bolt to 8.1n-m / 6 ft-lbs / 72in-lbs. > > ************************************************************ > This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. > ************************************************************ > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
why does this work???
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why does this work???
It's purely peace of mind in my opinion. Although the spring acting on the adjuster is not super strong, I doubt an Eagle adjuster would ever stick once the bolt is properly loosened. As for the OEM adjuster? It's probably broken and not there anyway! [laughing] Releasing the bolt removes the pressure that's clamping the adjuster in its current position actually preventing the spring from doing its time-and-again job. As long as the spring has proper tension, releasing the bolt's clamping pressure is enough. I've never tapped mine.
Furthermore, I'd like to make a special note on Marknet. What a super great resource that I've used myself over the years. Sure some will find steps that may/may not be necessary depending on the mechanic/situation. It's his [very helpful] way of doing something. Especially for newbies, I believe it's better to have more info or even steps than less--especially warnings about costly pitfalls. For example, I disagree you need to protect the 6mm o-ring from the threads on the water pump shaft (with clear tape) when reinstalling the impeller. Simply I put a touch of silicone grease on the threads and gently rotate the impeller clockwise. He mentions rotating clockwise but chooses to protect the o-ring a bit more in his own way. He doesn't mention I like to install a new o-ring with a touch of silicone grease to help glide it into its index (which is somewhat difficult to do), but he warns you adamantly to be very careful not to break the impeller shaft (doing something stupid) which will cost you. I've read stories myself of guys over-tightening the nut and snapping the shaft.
Anyway, Mark took considerable time to post many tips, instructions and photos--all in super great detail--and all free. I just want to take this time to give a HUGE tip of my hat and a big thanks to Mark.
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