[dsn_klr650] klr650 2nd radiator 78 degree test results (long)
why does this work???
On Marknet there is a procedure for balancer adjustment located at the
link below and listing the following steps. I have no doubt that they
are correct and have used several of his procedure write ups with
success, but I am curious. How does this adjust the chain? Is it simply
unlocking something to allow the cam chain tensioner to do its thing?
Can someone explain the mechanics of this?
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Balancer_Adjust.pdf.
3. Loosen balancer bolt just enough to be free of the lock tension,
about a quarter turn CCW. Disregard this step if the bolt's already
loose!
4. Tighten bolt back just to the point where it grabs, then back it off
again, one half turn CCW.
5. Lightly tap bolt head with plastic mallet.
6. Tighten bolt to 8.1n-m / 6 ft-lbs / 72in-lbs.
************************************************************
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why does this work???
As I understand it (feel free to add to this or correct me), loosening the balancer adjustment bolt allows the spring to pull the chain tensioner tighter. Tapping on the bolt makes sure it is working freely and not crimped to the case, which may happen if too much torque is used to tighten the balancer adjustment bolt.
________________________________
From: "Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery)"
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2012 12:56 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Why does this work???
On Marknet there is a procedure for balancer adjustment located at the
link below and listing the following steps. I have no doubt that they
are correct and have used several of his procedure write ups with
success, but I am curious. How does this adjust the chain? Is it simply
unlocking something to allow the cam chain tensioner to do its thing?
Can someone explain the mechanics of this?
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Balancer_Adjust.pdf.
3. Loosen balancer bolt just enough to be free of the lock tension,
about a quarter turn CCW. Disregard this step if the bolt's already
loose!
4. Tighten bolt back just to the point where it grabs, then back it off
again, one half turn CCW.
5. Lightly tap bolt head with plastic mallet.
6. Tighten bolt to 8.1n-m / 6 ft-lbs / 72in-lbs.
************************************************************
This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies.
************************************************************
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm
[dsn_klr650] klr650 2nd radiator 78 degree test results (long)
This is from a post I made to the list in 2008. It might have some value
to you. It is really three posts so if you read the last one first, then
the middle one and the top one last you can keep them in the order they
were made. First one was in 2006 and then it jumps to 2008.
I don't recall ever getting to the 90+ degree testing. I don't think it
would be much different based on the riding I've done in triple digit
temps and the results I've seen on the temp gauge.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jeff Saline
To:
Cc:
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 23:10:13 -0600
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR650 2nd Radiator 78 Degree Test Results (LONG)
Message-ID:
Listers,
Today I took a 47 minute ride in 78 degree temps to test my 2nd radiator.
This is my first warmer weather ride/test. I've tried to mirror the
tests conducted at the end of March this year and also two years
previously on 3 January 2006 when I first installed my 195 thermostat
housing. Both those tests were recorded and sent to the list and are at
the end of this post just in case you want to compare today's test with
the earlier tests.
Again there is nothing spectacular to report. I rode at speeds varying
from 5 to 65 mph and the coolant temperature in the head stayed between
185 and 210 degrees depending on the circumstances. Most of the time the
needle on the temperature gauge was steady to moving about a needle width
showing 195 degrees.
Here's a more detailed version.
I took a ride this afternoon totalling about 21 miles and the ambient air
temperature when I started was 78 degrees.
I started the bike and immediately rode to the end of the driveway. I
had to wait about 30 seconds for traffic and I even remembered to take a
look at the clock on my handlebars. I stayed close to the same test as
previously used but I'm finding this isn't really important based on the
results. My test and data collection methods aren't even close to Bill
Watson information gathering methods. It would be neat to have identical
rides monitoring coolant temp. This is the best I've come up with.
0 min Start the bike with no choke and immediately start riding
slowly down the driveway. Stop and
wait for traffic.
30 sec Turn right. Now riding @ 4.2K rpm @ 50 mph indicated.
1 min Temp is steadily rising. Remember ambient temp is 78
degrees. Temp in the previous tests were 37-38 degrees.
2 min Temp gauge indicates 185.
2 1/2 min Temp indicates about 195. I continue as I need fuel. The
coolant reached temp about 1/4 mile sooner than it does in 30 degree
temps.
3 min Stop to get fuel. Check mpg and see I got 49.3 mpg.
For the next few minutes of the ride forget about time. I leave the fuel
stop and return the way I came. I get about 1/2 mile down the road and
see a motorcycle/car accident in the oncoming lane. I stop and direct
traffic as there are 6 people at the accident scene and it looks like
nobody is hurt. It looks like the bike tail ended the car in a 35 mph
zone. Damage I saw on the bike is the forks/wheel were pushed back to
the frame. I direct traffic for about 15 minutes and then the fire
department thanked me for helping and releases me. I start the bike and
head to the figure 8 test area.
12 min I suppose this is about right time wise considering the stop
to help at the accident. I ride past the lot at the Post Office. The
parking lot I used 2 years ago had vehicles in it and today the Post
Office lot is busy too. I return the way I came and decide to try using
the back/side parking lot of a grocery store and gas station. Coolant
temp is at 195. I do figure 8s at 1,200 rpm, speed is between 5.0 and
7.6 mph. I have gearing at 14/46. This is about 15% lower than stock.
14 min Two minutes into the figure 8 riding. Temp steady at 195.
In the 2006 test in 38 degree temps I had to turn the fan on at this
point as the temp was at 210 degrees.
15 min Temp remains steady at 195. Still doing figure 8s.
16 min Temp is slowly increasing, currently at about 200. In the
2006 test with the stock radiator and 195 degree stat at this point I got
back on the road. In the test a few weeks ago the needle was pegged at
195 and I continued the figure 8s. I decide to see if I can do figure 8s
today for 15 minutes and get the engine hot or the fans to turn on.
19 min Seven minutes into the figure 8s. The temp is pegged at 210
on the gauge.
19-27 min I continue to do figure 8s and the needle is pegged at 210.
There may be a very slight fluctuation of maybe two degrees but I can't
tell for sure while I'm riding.
27 min After 15 mins of riding figure 8s at 5-7 mph the temp was
pegged at 210 degrees. As far as I can tell the fan never even came
close to coming on. I gave up on the slow speed testing in the parking
lot and returned to the road at about 30 mph indicated. Temp moves down
to about 195 after two minutes. I could tell I was back on the stat.
This is about the time I quit looking at the clock and just rode a bit to
see how the temp would move. Here's what I did.
I continued on this road for about 4 miles. I was riding at 3.5K rpms @
45 mph. I watched the temperature gauge needle and could see it moving
about 10 degrees. It would hit about 195 and then drop and return to 195
every 20 seconds.
After confirming this time I got on the interstate. If you knew me you'd
know this is a huge move for me as I hate the interstate. But in the
name of testing I decided to ride to the next exit. I was doing about
5.2K rpms about 60-65 mph. The needle was steady at 195.
Getting off the interstate I got stuck in some going home traffic and had
to wait my turn in line for about 2-3 minutes. The needle remained
steady at 195 while I was at an idle.
I turned towards home and ran at about 4.0K rpm at 50 mph and the needle
remained steady at 195.
Getting home I pulled up to the shop and left the bike idling on the side
stand as I went in to remove my helmet and ear plugs. When I returned to
the bike the needle was steady at 195 degrees and just beginning to rise.
It wasn't to 200 yet.
I quickly grabbed a piece of paper and the infrared temperature indicator
to try to capture some temp readings on each radiator. You may remember
I did this and shared the readings from my first test ride a few weeks
ago. Here are the results after todays's 78 degree ride with the 37
degree ride results below that for easy comparison. Readings are in
degrees Fahrenheit.
78 degrees ambient
Left Right
185 www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
<><><><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><><><><>
--------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:56:48 -0600
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR650 2nd Radiator Colder Weather Test Results
Listers,
I've just returned from a 72 minute ride in 36-37 degree temps to test my
2nd radiator. I had hoped to mirror the test I did on 3 January 2006
when I first installed my 195 thermostat housing. That test was recorded
and sent to the list and is at the end of this post just in case you want
to compare today's test with the earlier test using a stock radiator
system.
The short story is there's absolutely nothing spectacular to report. I
rode at speeds varying from 5 to 50 mph and the temperature stayed
between 180 and 200 degrees depending on the circumstances. Most of the
time the needle on the temperature gauge was steady to moving about a
needle width showing 195 degrees.
Here's a detailed version.
I took a ride this morning totalling about 42 miles and the temp when I
started was about 27 degrees. The heated vest and grips worked pretty
well and I'm really glad I just installed the dual control heat troller
for the grips. They were on the entire ride. The temperature gauge
needle stayed pretty steady for most of the ride which was at speeds up
to about 60 mph on Nemo Road. At times there were some wider
fluctuations of about 15 degrees which is normal for this set up.
When I got home I thought I was finished riding for the day. I noticed
the ambient temp had risen to 37 degrees and I got to thinking about
duplicating the test from 3 Jan 2006. That's been on my list for a
couple of weeks but the weather hasn't been cooperating. I was watching
the race at Martinville on TV and started getting antsy about not riding.
Then the temp dropped about a degree. I decided I might not get another
opportunity to do the test this spring so I got ready to take another
ride.
My intention was to duplicate the earlier test for a really good
comparison. You'll soon see why I changed the plan while on the ride.
Since the bike had only been put up for about 1 1/2 hours it hadn't
completely cooled down. I could feel a bit of warmth when I put my hand
on the cylinder and also the bottom of each radiator. I used my infrared
temperature indicator to learn it was at about 84 degrees. I pushed the
bike outside while I was suiting up hoping the cooler outside temps would
put a chill into the engine and cooling system. Probably 8 to 10 minutes
later I was suited up and ready to ride for the test.
Just so you know... I was wearing a heated vest under a First Gear
Kilimanjaro liner and jacket and had First Gear HT overpants with liners
for below the waist. I was wearing heavy socks with Oxtar Matrix riding
boots. For my neck and head I had on a turtle neck shirt and a Harley
Davidson balacava and topped that with my HJC Sy-Max helmet. I even
remembered to put in my custom ear plugs before putting on my helmet. :
) For hand protection I'm using First Gear Commander Gloves which are
still on closeout at www.newenough.com for only $15 last week. I
normally wear a size large glove but in the Commander I wear an XXL. My
hands would also be holding onto grips heated with Moose heating elements
on the low setting controlled by the dual control Heat Troller. I was
set up to ride.
I started the bike and immediately rode to the end of the driveway. I
had to wait about 30 seconds for traffic and I even remembered to take a
look at the clock on my handlebars. For the beginning bit of the test
I'll try to use the same format as the earlier test. Here goes. Oh, my
gearing on this test was a bit lower than the other test so my rpms and
speeds were just a bit different sometimes. I don't think that had any
effect on the results of this ride/test.
0 min Start the bike with full choke and immediately put it to 1/2
choke. Start riding slowly down the driveway. Stop and
wait for traffic.
30 sec Turn right, turn choke off. Now riding @ 4.2K rpm @ 50 mph
indicated.
1 min Temp is steadily rising. Remember ambient temp is 36
degrees. Temp in the 2006 test was 38 degrees.
2 min Temp gauge indicates 180.
2 1/2 min Temp indicates about 185 I turn around and have to stop for
traffic for about 5 seconds.
3 min Stabilizes at 195 needle steady.
12 min Pull into a small but clear parking lot at the Post Office.
The parking lot I used 2 years ago had vehicles in it. Temp at 190-195.
Do figure 8s at 1,200 rpm. I have gearing at 14/46. This is about 15%
lower than stock.
14 min Temp steady at 195. Last test I had to turn the fan on at
this point as the temp was at 210 degrees.
15 min Temp remains steady at 195. Still doing figure 8s. I'm
getting good at reading the clock, temp gauge and tach. The GPS shows
I'm riding at between 5.2 and 7.0 mph depending on where I am in the
figure 8.
16 min Temp still steady at 195. Stop doing figure 8s. At this
point in the 2006 test the temp had returned to 195 and I turned the fan
off and got back on the road. Well today this was pretty boring as the
needle wasn't moving. So I decided to continue the figure 8s and see if
the temp would begin to rise.
27 min After 15 mins of riding figure 8s at 5-7 mph the temp was
still steady at 195 degrees. I gave up on the slow speed testing in the
parking lot and returned to the road @ 3.2K rpms @ about 40 mph
indicated. Temp moves up to about 200 indicated and then drops to 185
and then begins the move back up again. It's back to cycling on the
stat.
This is about the time I quit looking at the clock and just tried to get
the temp to rise. Here's what I did.
I rode about 4 miles at 45-50 mph and turned onto a small road with
little if any traffic. I put the bike in 2nd gear and rode at 2,500 rpm
for about 2 miles. The GPS showed I was moving at 17 mph. The needle
stayed steady. I rode up a hill for about 3/8 mile and the needle stayed
steady. Back down the hill and on level for 1/4 mile or less. No
change. Then up a long hill in 1st gear at 3,000 rpm with the GPS
showing a speed of 11.6-13.0 mph. I rode up the hill for about a mile
and I'm guessing it's about a 4% grade. The needle stayed the same at
195 and steady. Down the hill nice and slowly it stayed the same and
back to the main road in 2nd gear at 2,500 rpm it was the same. Like I
said at the beginning, this wasn't a spectacular test.
Getting back on the main road I turned left towards home. Riding for 1
mile at 50 mph the needle again began to move up to about 200 and then
drop to 185 and then begin the cycle all over again.
So I rode past the house and watched the needle with a slow and steady
movement indicating the stat operation. After about 3 miles I turn onto
some small roads that would be interesting to ride on at about 30-45 mph.
All along this section the needle only moved about the width of the
needle staying pretty steady at 195. That was probably 5 miles of riding
and snow was coming down very lightly. Ambient temperature was still
showing 36 degrees when I got home. I finally got about 3 miles from
home and could increase speed to 50 mph. The needle then started making
the normal 15 degree sweeps up and down in synch with the stat operation.
Getting home I forgot to turn my fuel off about 3/8 mile out so I turned
it off while turning into the driveway. When I got near the house I did
a couple of circles and then rode back down the driveway and did a U-turn
to return to the shop. As I pulled up to the shop I left the bike idling
on the side stand as I went in to remove my helmet and ear plugs. When I
returned to the bike the needle was steady at 195 degrees. I shut the
engine off and wheeled the bike into the shop parking it until my next
ride.
I quickly grabbed a piece of paper and the infrared temperature indicator
to try to capture some temp readings on each radiator. You may remember
I did this and shared the readings from my first test ride a few weeks
ago. Here are the results after todays's 72 minute ride. Readings are
in degrees Fahrenheit.
Left Right
159 www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
<><><><><><><>
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 14:59:42 -0700
Subject: 195 Degree Stat 2nd Test
<><><><><><><>
Listers,
In my earlier post about oil analysis I mentioned I'd send further news
of my 195 degree stat performance in a later e-mail. Well, here it is.
Not having the expertise of Bill Watson, nor his professional data
collection tools and methods I submit this for your examination. The
ambient air temp this morning was 38 degrees. I was taking a ride to
warm my engine and oil in preparation for taking an oil sample for later
analysis and had a goal to see how the 195 degree stat works while
getting up to temp. Here's the best I can remember about the ride.
0 min Start the bike with full choke and immediately put it to 1/2
choke.
30sec Start riding slowly down the driveway. Stop. Turn right,
turn choke off. Now riding @ 4K rpm @ 50 mph indicated.
1 min Temp is steadily rising. Remember ambient temp is 38
degrees.
2 min Temp indicates 200 and drops to 180. It takes a gulp of
cold coolant.
4 min Stabilizes at 195-200 needle moving gently showing stat
operation. Coolant in radiator cool and still cooling the engine too
quickly.
10 min Pull into a small but mostly clear parking lot. Maybe 120 x
60 feet. Temp at 195. Do figure 8s at 1,200 rpm. I have gearing at
16/46. This is only about 0.3% lower than stock.
12 min Temp to 210 and slowly rising. I think this is from no
cooling air over the radiator at slow speeds. I turn on the fan.
13 min Temp just begins to drop from 210. Fan still on. Still
doing figure 8s. I'm getting good at reading the clock, temp gauge, tach
and missing the ice. I wonder if somebody's getting ready to call the
sheriff on me.
14 min Temp at 195 and using stat for temp regulation. Stop doing
figure 8s. Turn off fan. Return to road @ 3.2K rpms @ 50 mph indicated.
Temp remains steady at 200 indicated. Coolant in radiator hot.
19 min Temp remains at 200 indicated and needle remains steady.
22 min Arrive at my shop. Temp is 200 indicated. Idle engine for
30 seconds. Temp steady.
22 1/2 min Turn off engine.
24 1/2 min Temp rises to 220.
26 1/2 min Engine is off. Temp has dropped to 210.
END OF TEST.
Further examination of the new stat housing indicates coolant leaking
from the housing bleeder bolt. No drops of coolant just a path showing
it's been there. I'll try to tighten the bleeder bolt another 1/4 turn.
I only tightened it about 1/8th of a turn after my first test. I have a
neoprene washer under the bolt head and have plenty of room for
additional tightening.
I think the temps and operation indicate Bill's calculations and advice
were right on the money. I'm sure he'll either confirm, or correct me as
appropriate. The temperature quickly reached 195 degrees and then gently
fluctuated until the coolant in the radiator had a chance to get warm.
Then the needle remained steady while on the road. Under the parking
lot/slow conditions the lack of air flow over the radiator allowed the
temperature to rise steadily. A minute after the fan was engaged the
temperature began to drop until the stat again began to regulate the
temperature. About 5-6 minutes after the engine was shut off the oil and
engine temp were within 4 degrees. I suppose the by pass orifice could
be just a little large as the temps remain higher than the 195 of the
stat. Or the orifices are correct and the gauge face is off about 1/32"
showing 200 when it's really 195. Without a thermocouple for accurate
measurement I'll never know.
It would be interesting to observe performance of a stock KLR in similar
conditions. I don't think it would get to operational temp in 2 minutes
or stay there. My rides a few months ago in 22 degree temps showed
engine temps of only 170-180 degrees. I think this new stat has fixed
the cool coolant in cool temps issue.
Best,
Jeff
.
.
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