a klr review video

[Jud]

Sounds like you could use a bowl of Today's Soup du Jour, followed by some Roast Beef with Au Jus Gravy.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > ...or go to ATM machines. The "M" stands for machine, dipwad! > > It's the Department of Redundancy Department. > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "eddie" > To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 11:50:38 AM > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: A KLR review video > > > > > > > Same reason folks buy "hot water heaters". > No such thing. > Hot water doesn't need heating. > LOL > eddie > > > [Original Message] > > From: < k650@... > > > To: Ron Criswell < roncriswell2@... > > > Cc: DSN KLR650 < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Date: 6/12/2012 11:24:03 AM > > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: A KLR review video > > > > Why does everyone call them hitch pins? It is a hitch pin clip. > > > > Walt > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ] On > > Behalf Of Ron Criswell > > Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 10:02 > > To: Kevin Powers > > Cc: DSN KLR650 > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: A KLR review video > > > > I like cotter pins instead of hitch pins. Tree line or twigs can pull them > > out (happened to me). A guy at Moab one year lost his and his front axle > it > > using one. > > > > Criswell > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jun 11, 2012, at 8:54 AM, Kevin Powers < PowersHouse@... > wrote: > > > > > On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 12:26 AM, Jeff Khoury < jeff@... > wrote: > > > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > > > > Eagle Mike's Prevailing Torque Nut eliminates the need for the bendy > > > > washer that holds the countershaft nut in place. > > > > > > > > The threads are ground at a slightly different pitch than the ones > > > > on the shaft, causing it to bind just enough so it won't back out with > > vibration. > > > > > > > > Once you have this in place... and if you keep a coat of grease on > > > > your countershaft so the sprocket doesn't stick, changing the front > > > > sprocket is quite quick and easy. > > > > > > > > 1. pull out the cotter pin on your rear axle and throw it away. > > > > Replace it with a hitch pin so you don't have to mess with that the > next > > time. > > > > > > > > 2. Back off your adjusting nuts (or bolts, depending on the year) on > > > > the swingarm with a 12mm wrench (on the 08+). Keep those oiled so > > > > they move easily. > > > > > > > > > > When you order your Eagle Mike prevailing torque nut, add in the Axle > > > adjuster Nylock lock nut > > > PIC< http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/images/nylock.jpg >, > > > which uses a 13mm wrench. > > > -- > > > Kevin Powers > > > White Bear Lake, MN > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead > > Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > > Group Apps: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo ! > > Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > > Group Apps: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo ! > Groups Links > > > > > > >

[revmaaatin]

Mark, Tell us the name/source of the stick epoxy that you carry on the KLR to fix metal engine case damage; you might remember it was the same stuff you gave me last July that you use to blunt the pointed end of your kayak. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > Ten Bucks!?!? > I'll make my own for free out of some stainless or titanium rod I > have lying around. > > Mark > > At 9:06 PM -0600 6/12/12, Mike Huber wrote: > >I've been using these since I bought my 06 4 years ago....haven't > >lost one yet. > > > >http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KLR-650-KLR650-Axle-Safety-Clip-Axles-Cotter-Pin-Wheel-New-1987-2012-/280889058537?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41664ae4e9&vxp=mtr >

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

The original stuff I used to repair Tumu's and my engine cases was "QuikSteel". However, I think just about any other 2-part epoxy putty will work, eg. "Magnum Steel", "Mighty Putty" (which is what Billy mays sold on TV), PC Products 025543, etc. Mark At 9:33 PM +0000 6/13/12, revmaaatin wrote: Mark, Tell us the name/source of the stick epoxy that you carry on the KLR to fix metal engine case damage; you might remember it was the same stuff you gave me last July that you use to blunt the pointed end of your kayak. revmaaatin. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

PS: I think the specific one I gave you was "Magnun Steel". Two-part epoxy putties are available at Walmart and just about any auto parts store.

[RobertWichert]

Has anybody else used Devcon? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVCON-Aluminum-Putty-5A456?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-BTM_BTB05209020&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2 This stuff is truly structural. Nothing temporary about it. It is available in many material formulations to match the thermal characteristics of the material being bonded to. For instance, stainless steel. http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Stainless%20Steel%20Putty%20%28ST%29 Titanium, ferchrissakes http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Titanium%20Putty "universal" http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=FasMetal%E2%84%A2%2010%20HVAC%20Repair I used this to bond and blend a sharp "nose cone" to my outdrive about twenty five years ago. Aluminum to aluminum. Although it has been the first thing to hit rocks, logs, beaches, and the trailer (it is the pointy front end of the outdrive, sharply pointed to cut down on drag) and it has many dents, it has never even cracked. Highly recommended. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 6/13/2012 2:50 PM, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > The original stuff I used to repair Tumu's and my engine cases was > "QuikSteel". > However, I think just about any other 2-part epoxy putty will work, > eg. "Magnum Steel", "Mighty Putty" (which is what Billy mays sold on > TV), PC Products 025543, etc. > > Mark > > At 9:33 PM +0000 6/13/12, revmaaatin wrote: > > Mark, > Tell us the name/source of the stick epoxy that you carry on the KLR > to fix metal engine case damage; you might remember it was the same > stuff you gave me last July that you use to blunt the pointed end of > your kayak. > > revmaaatin. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud]

I used to share shop space with a very inventive guy who once built a BSA twingle, i.e. modified so that both cylinders fired at the same time. He used Devcon to fabricate the sprockets for a belt drive primary. Worked a treat.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > Has anybody else used Devcon? > http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DEVCON-Aluminum-Putty-5A456?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-BTM_BTB05209020&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2 > > This stuff is truly structural. Nothing temporary about it. It is > available in many material formulations to match the thermal > characteristics of the material being bonded to. For instance, > stainless steel. > http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Stainless%20Steel%20Putty%20%28ST%29 > > Titanium, ferchrissakes > http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Titanium%20Putty > > "universal" > http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=FasMetal%E2%84%A2%2010%20HVAC%20Repair > > > I used this to bond and blend a sharp "nose cone" to my outdrive about > twenty five years ago. Aluminum to aluminum. Although it has been the > first thing to hit rocks, logs, beaches, and the trailer (it is the > pointy front end of the outdrive, sharply pointed to cut down on drag) > and it has many dents, it has never even cracked. > > > Highly recommended. > > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > > On 6/13/2012 2:50 PM, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > > > The original stuff I used to repair Tumu's and my engine cases was > > "QuikSteel". > > However, I think just about any other 2-part epoxy putty will work, > > eg. "Magnum Steel", "Mighty Putty" (which is what Billy mays sold on > > TV), PC Products 025543, etc. > > > > Mark > > > > At 9:33 PM +0000 6/13/12, revmaaatin wrote: > > > > Mark, > > Tell us the name/source of the stick epoxy that you carry on the KLR > > to fix metal engine case damage; you might remember it was the same > > stuff you gave me last July that you use to blunt the pointed end of > > your kayak. > > > > revmaaatin. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >