mystery part

[jwflower53]

So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the headlight dims to nothing. This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who wants to share? -JWF A13 1981 Honda CB125S 2004 Yamaha TT225

[mark ward]

Google it. (Reveiws)

--- On Thu, 5/17/12, jwflower53 wrote: From: jwflower53 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] TurnTech LFP battery? To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, May 17, 2012, 3:59 PM So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the headlight dims to nothing. This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who wants to share? -JWF A13 1981 Honda CB125S 2004 Yamaha TT225 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James W. Flower]

Gee Mark, why didn't I think of that? Actually, there are several people on this list whose opinions I respect more than some stranger in a web review, and there's been an ongoing discussion on these new-fangled batteries that I was thinking to tap into. But FYI, the random web reviews are overwhelmingly positive in general. -JWF

On May 17, 2012, at 11:04 AM, mark ward wrote: > Google it. (Reveiws) > > --- On Thu, 5/17/12, jwflower53 wrote: > > From: jwflower53 > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] TurnTech LFP battery? > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, May 17, 2012, 3:59 PM > > So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the headlight dims to nothing. > > This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. > > Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who wants to share? > -JWF > A13 > 1981 Honda CB125S > 2004 Yamaha TT225 > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dean Wegner]

I have a LFP battery from BALLISTIC PERFORMANCE (8 CELL version) that I purchased this spring for a DRZ400. About $150. As a stress test, I charged it and put it in the KLR650 when the temperature was 25-30 deg F out in my garage. It would just barely start the KLR when it was this cold. It would turn over fine, but starting was hard. Output was around 90amps. Voltage at the battery would drop to 9V when cranking, which I think contributed to the hard starting. The LFP battery's have a warmup characteristic. When this cold, they will turn the engine over slowly until they actually warm up. As they warm up, you can hear the RPM of the engine increase as the battery puts out more amps. If you are using it in temps above 40 def F I would guess it would work just fine. Same LFP battery has been starting the DRZ400 for April and May with no problem. No special charging requirements, no different than the AGM battery it replaced. The LFP batteries are incredibly light. They will weigh less than 1/2 of a lead acid or AGM battery. I switched the KLR back to the Odyssey PC545 AGM battery I've been using for years. It always starts the KLR even when below freezing. Dean Wegner Wisconsin

On 5/17/12, jwflower53 wrote: > So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the > headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the > starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the > headlight dims to nothing. > > This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and > comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The > terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two > spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very > long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, > and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is > definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. > > Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who > wants to share? > -JWF > A13 > 1981 Honda CB125S > 2004 Yamaha TT225 > >

[Fred Hink]

Be careful what you are ordering. A 5ah battery is not nearly powerful enough for your KLR. Ballistic Performance batteries list a battery for the KLR and this would be a 15ah model using 8 cells. The 4 cell battery with 8ah from Ballistic Performance sells for $99. These batteries require a special charger that is not cheap either. ($80) The 8 cell 15ah battery sells for about $160. If you would like to try one of these Lithium Ferrous batteries, let me know. http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/8cell.php Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: jwflower53 Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 9:59 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] TurnTech LFP battery? So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the headlight dims to nothing. This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who wants to share? -JWF A13 1981 Honda CB125S 2004 Yamaha TT225 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 17 May 2012 19:16:43 -0500 Dean Wegner writes: SNIP It would just barely start the KLR when it was this cold. It would turn over fine, but starting was hard. Output was around 90amps. Voltage at the battery would drop to 9V when cranking, which I think contributed to the hard starting. The LFP battery's have a warmup characteristic. When this cold, they will turn the engine over slowly until they actually warm up. As they warm up, you can hear the RPM of the engine increase as the battery puts out more amps. SNIP Dean Wegner Wisconsin <><><><><><> <><><><><><> One of the things I point out to students when we're talking about volts and amps and starting systems is the relationship. Think about it like a teeter totter. Volts on one side and amps on the other. When volts is high (12.6 volts) amps is low. When volts drops amps go up. Take a starting system that has a 100 amp draw at 12 volts from a good battery. If the battery is discharged the volts will go down and the amps will go up. It's quite spectacular if you are doing the math. A system is designed to be used with a fully charged battery. If a discharged or weak battery is used the current required to do the same amount of work increases. This can cause damage to starter and switch components that aren't made to handle the larger load. Arcing and high heat are two prime causes of premature system problems. It's well worth using an appropriate battery for a system to work properly. On a side note... sometimes when a bike will crank but not start you can fool the electrickery into working by cranking then stopping the cranking. If you get lucky the cranking will spin the engine fast enough that when you disengage the starter the battery can recover enough to put out a higher voltage that will then be enough to generate a spark and start the engine. Many systems will not respond if the voltage is too low. Sometimes in cold weather you can get better performance from a battery by turning on the lights for about 5 minutes. The discharge from the battery causes heat and the heat improves performance. Once the battery is warmer, turn off the lights and then try to crank the engine. I've seen this work quite a few times in very cold conditions. It's better to try sooner than later. Sometimes you only get one chance to get an engine started. Jumper cables are a good solution if you have something to connect them too. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 57 But Looks 24 Mom releases simple facelift secret that angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4fb5c67337cb413b90bfst01vuc

[Jeff Khoury]

//It would just barely start the KLR when it was this cold. It would turn over fine, but starting was hard.// Also, don't forget that if you're running 15W- or 20W- oil, this could also contribute to hard cold-starting as well. 20W-50 mineral oil is like effing concrete at 40F. It will keep the engine from reaching a sufficient crank speed. If you're gonna be in colder weather, consider a 5W- or 10W-40 synthetic. They have much better cold-pumping characteristics. I can vouch for this first hand trying to start my KLR on a sub-freezing morning in Big Bear (+7,500ft. elevation). -Jeff Khoury

[Skypilot]

I added a section to the battery options text file in the files section on LFP with some of the discussion. If any overwelming review or data comes in on one side or the other I will replace the discussion but for now this is all I have. Chris

[T2M]

Fred, I am looking forward to an education. My dialup connection really doesn't do searches well. The link you provided quoted: "Amperage: 15 Pb-eq A/H". What is 15 Pb-eq A/H? Is it really a 15 A/H battery? This is something I notice because the last time I was looking at this from another source they stated that the Battery was only ~2.5 ampere hours but would start the bike fine (high CCA, low steady state drain capacity). It might be an apples and oranges comparison issue. One is stating the actual A/H the other is what to compare it to in a lead acid. -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hink Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 8:24 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; jwflower53 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] TurnTech LFP battery? Be careful what you are ordering. A 5ah battery is not nearly powerful enough for your KLR. Ballistic Performance batteries list a battery for the KLR and this would be a 15ah model using 8 cells. The 4 cell battery with 8ah from Ballistic Performance sells for $99. These batteries require a special charger that is not cheap either. ($80) The 8 cell 15ah battery sells for about $160. If you would like to try one of these Lithium Ferrous batteries, let me know. http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/8cell.php Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: jwflower53 Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 9:59 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] TurnTech LFP battery? So, no-load on the old agm battery is 12.6v, but less then than 10v with the headlight on. Maybe that's why the solenoid just rattles when I push the starter button, and stops even doing that within ten seconds, as the headlight dims to nothing. This guy Joe at TurnTech batteries answered my questions promptly and comprehensively. His 5ah Lithium Iron Phophate (LFP) is $110 total. The terminals look pretty strong, they're in the right positions. He says two spare tire tubes would take up the extra space. Six month warranty not very long but he says these batteries are either "stillborn" or last a long time, and offering a shorter warranty helps him keep the price down. $110 is definitely at the low end for this sort of battery. Shall I be the guinea pig, or is there already a guinea pig out there who wants to share? -JWF A13 1981 Honda CB125S 2004 Yamaha TT225 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links

[dooden]

Gotta love this group hey...

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > SIX answers in twenty minutes, every one spot on the money. > > This group is amazing. > > > THANKS TO ALL! > > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > > On 5/17/2012 3:01 PM, Seekyrr wrote: > > > > If your siting on the bike that would be on the left side, the bolt > > goes in from the right side if memory serves. > > > > Crash > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >