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[Eddie]

I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was very specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before reassembly. If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking procedure before disassembly, etc...), the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it and effectively ruining the pistol. I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among my cleaning materials. $#@%!!! Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet would not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY CAREFULLY* removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. eddie [Original Message] From: mark ward To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; Eric J Foster Date: 5/6/2012 9:46:42 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: D*mn, droped a socket down the cam chain tunnel I was LUCKY , I chose to watch a you tube vidio on how to do the shims before starting mine, and he WARNED to put rags in there, as a comon issue. That GREAT ABYSS has it's own Gravity pull. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mark ward]

I do not REMEMBER, ever making any mistakes. In fact I'm so perfect, I only have one flaw, yes just one,.......................... I HAVE A...... TERRIBLE MEMORY. LOL

--- On Sun, 5/6/12, eddie wrote: From: eddie Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Sunday, May 6, 2012, 2:42 PM I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was very specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before reassembly. If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking procedure before disassembly, etc...), the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it and effectively ruining the pistol. I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among my cleaning materials. $#@%!!! Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet would not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY CAREFULLY* removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. eddie [Original Message] From: mark ward To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; Eric J Foster Date: 5/6/2012 9:46:42 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: D*mn, droped a socket down the cam chain tunnel I was LUCKY , I chose to watch a you tube vidio on how to do the shims before starting mine, and he WARNED to put rags in there, as a comon issue. That GREAT ABYSS has it's own Gravity pull. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ron criswell]

What do you use to clean it? A friend who is a bonefied war hero swears by.....what else....WD-40. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On May 6, 2012, at 8:42 AM, "eddie" wrote: > > I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was very > specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before reassembly. > If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking procedure before disassembly, etc...), > the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it and effectively ruining the pistol. > I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. > Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before > putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among my cleaning materials. > $#@%!!! > Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet would > not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY CAREFULLY* > removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. > eddie > > [Original Message] > From: mark ward > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; Eric J Foster > Date: 5/6/2012 9:46:42 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: D*mn, droped a socket down the cam chain tunnel > > I was LUCKY , I chose to watch a you tube vidio on how to do the shims > before starting mine, and he WARNED to put rags in there, as a comon issue. > That GREAT ABYSS has it's own Gravity pull. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eddie]

I use Hoppe's #9 solvent or Ballistol(what the Ruger service center uses). Oh! And dollar store Q-tips by the handful! LOL eddie

> [Original Message] > From: Ron Criswell > To: transalp1@... > Cc: KLR650 list DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 5/7/2012 6:15:51 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > What do you use to clean it? A friend who is a bonefied war hero swears

by.....what else....WD-40.

> > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 6, 2012, at 8:42 AM, "eddie" wrote: > > > > > I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was

very

> > specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before

reassembly.

> > If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking

procedure before disassembly, etc...),

> > the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it

and effectively ruining the pistol.

> > I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. > > Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with

her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before

> > putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among

my cleaning materials.

> > $#@%!!! > > Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet

would

> > not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY

CAREFULLY*

> > removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. > > eddie > >

[Jeff Khoury]

In the USCG we used BreakFree CLP, and I have used on my personal firearms ever since. Once I saw how well it protected blued steel firearms in a salt air/spray enviroment I was sold. It would take a lot to change me over to something else. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "eddie" To: "Ron Criswell" Cc: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 3:37:00 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops I use Hoppe's #9 solvent or Ballistol(what the Ruger service center uses). Oh! And dollar store Q-tips by the handful! LOL eddie > [Original Message] > From: Ron Criswell < roncriswell@... > > To: transalp1@... < transalp1@... > > Cc: KLR650 list < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Date: 5/7/2012 6:15:51 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > What do you use to clean it? A friend who is a bonefied war hero swears by.....what else....WD-40. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 6, 2012, at 8:42 AM, "eddie" < transalp1@... > wrote: > > > > > I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was very > > specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before reassembly. > > If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking procedure before disassembly, etc...), > > the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it and effectively ruining the pistol. > > I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. > > Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before > > putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among my cleaning materials. > > $#@%!!! > > Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet would > > not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY CAREFULLY* > > removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. > > eddie > >

[James W. Flower]

There was this one time when I thought I'd made a mistake- but I was wrong.

[revmaaatin]

The Exxon jet engine (syn) oil (reportedly) also has significant anti corossion characteristics. I never used it but my jet engine mechanics thought it was the bomb. Perhaps others could comment/experience. The problem with most lubricants (for short range) hunting firearms is the balance between lubricant smell and rust. The deer can smell most lubricants a long ways off, at least directly downwind. Oh, and don't let your buddy pour fox urnine on your pants just before you walk into the woods to mask your scent.... revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > In the USCG we used BreakFree CLP, and I have used on my personal firearms ever since. > > > Once I saw how well it protected blued steel firearms in a salt air/spray enviroment I was sold. It would take a lot to change me over to something else. > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "eddie" > To: "Ron Criswell" > Cc: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 3:37:00 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > > > > > > I use Hoppe's #9 solvent or Ballistol(what the Ruger service center uses). > Oh! And dollar store Q-tips by the handful! LOL > eddie > > > [Original Message] > > From: Ron Criswell < roncriswell@... > > > To: transalp1@... < transalp1@... > > > Cc: KLR650 list < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Date: 5/7/2012 6:15:51 AM > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > > > What do you use to clean it? A friend who is a bonefied war hero swears > by.....what else....WD-40. > > > > Criswell > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > On May 6, 2012, at 8:42 AM, "eddie" < transalp1@... > wrote: > > > > > > > > I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's manual was > very > > > specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place before > reassembly. > > > If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking > procedure before disassembly, etc...), > > > the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - dinging it > and effectively ruining the pistol. > > > I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. > > > Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important step with > her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before > > > putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting among > my cleaning materials. > > > $#@%!!! > > > Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet > would > > > not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and *VERY > CAREFULLY* > > > removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, thankfully. > > > eddie > > > >

[RobertWichert]

Jet engine oil? Where can I get that? (I use BreakFree too) Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 5/7/2012 9:26 PM, revmaaatin wrote: > > > The Exxon jet engine (syn) oil (reportedly) also has significant anti > corossion characteristics. I never used it but my jet engine mechanics > thought it was the bomb. Perhaps others could comment/experience. > > The problem with most lubricants (for short range) hunting firearms is > the balance between lubricant smell and rust. The deer can smell most > lubricants a long ways off, at least directly downwind. > > Oh, and don't let your buddy pour fox urnine on your pants just before > you walk into the woods to mask your scent.... > > revmaaatin. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > In the USCG we used BreakFree CLP, and I have used on my personal > firearms ever since. > > > > > > Once I saw how well it protected blued steel firearms in a salt > air/spray enviroment I was sold. It would take a lot to change me over > to something else. > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "eddie" > > To: "Ron Criswell" > > Cc: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 3:37:00 AM > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I use Hoppe's #9 solvent or Ballistol(what the Ruger service center > uses). > > Oh! And dollar store Q-tips by the handful! LOL > > eddie > > > > > [Original Message] > > > From: Ron Criswell < roncriswell@... > > > > To: transalp1@... < transalp1@... > > > > Cc: KLR650 list < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > > Date: 5/7/2012 6:15:51 AM > > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: More Oops > > > > > > What do you use to clean it? A friend who is a bonefied war hero > swears > > by.....what else....WD-40. > > > > > > Criswell > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > On May 6, 2012, at 8:42 AM, "eddie" < transalp1@... > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > I bought a Ruger MkIII .22 seven years ago and the owner's > manual was > > very > > > > specific about making sure the firing pin stop pin be in place > before > > reassembly. > > > > If left out, the 1st time you dry-fire the weapon (normal decocking > > procedure before disassembly, etc...), > > > > the firing pin will overtravel and strike the chamber face - > dinging it > > and effectively ruining the pistol. > > > > I've taken it apart dozen and dozen of times without incident. > > > > Last night, after instructing my girlfriend on this important > step with > > her new Mk III, I dry fired my Ruger before > > > > putting it away and then discovered the firing pin stop sitting > among > > my cleaning materials. > > > > $#@%!!! > > > > Sure enough, there was a tiny burr in the chamber face and a bullet > > would > > > > not go in. I gritted my teeth and took a round chainsaw file and > *VERY > > CAREFULLY* > > > > removed it. It worked! Whew! The firing pin was undamaged, > thankfully. > > > > eddie > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote:

> > Jet engine oil? Where can I get that? > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C

Jet engine oil can be bought at a Fixed Base Operator (FBO) at any airport that services jets. Go to the private aviation side (non-comercial ie not Delta, etc) and ask the clerk for a qt of jet oil. Looks like it is now called: Mobil Jet Oil II http://www.acculube.com/exxon-mobil-oil.htm Mobil Jet Oil II Engineered for aircraft gas turbine engines used in commercial and military service requiring MIL-PRF-23699 performance and aircraft-type gas turbine engines in industrial or marine service. Formulated with a stable synthetic base fluid and a unique chemical additive package for thermal and oxidative stability to resist deterioration and deposit formation, also resistant to foaming. Operating range -40 C (-40 F) and 204 C (400 F).

[achesley43@ymail.com]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Ron Criswell wrote:

> > Anybody read the comparison in this months Rider ( I think) magazine between our beloved KLR and the 650 BMW single? Seems like the KLR won the comparison. They said the KLR was a more comfortable ride and they liked the powerband even though it had less ponies. > > Criswell

I read it with a smile on my face. As per dual sport type bikes ( not counting the 2 BMW R11** GSs I had ) I had an '85 KLR 600 for a bit, Never got it running just right due to electrics ,. Then a '92 which I rebuilt from a wreck. It was a demo at a shop I was working at and a customer looped it over backwards so hard it bent the key in the ignition. I sold the '92 KLR with 30+ thousand miles on it in '95 when I bought the R11GS. Then ended up with 2 different DR350s bikes for a b it and did the 1st part of the TAT Arkansas on one driving it from home to Hellena Ar. and back her after getting sopped by heavy rains. Then, I bought my '00 KLR. Back in love again. Sold both DR250s so just the KLR and the R11GS in the stable. Then bought a DRZ400SE to see if it would take the place of the KLR . It didn't. Sold it. Along came an R11RA for a few years for a pardner to the KLR and then an '02 R1150GS which gave way to a DL1000 and then my present '07 Bandit 1250S. Ended up selling the KLR to a friend with the understanding that if he ever wanted to get rid of it, it came back to me. Bought a DR650SE. Lighter,. more agile, powerband was nevr liked by me. No grunt and not as comfortable on the road. So, after 6 months sold it. Now just me and da Bandit. Friend decides he wants a Sportster after having the KLR for near 3 years and putting a wopping 2000 miles on it. Back home with the KLR and took it all apart. A rekindled love, working on it, painting it, riding it again. I just don't think it's gonna leave home again. UNLESS, Kawasaki puts an FI set up on a KLR in the near future.