water pump question

[Jeff Khoury]

It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. (on a 08+ bike) These things combined are supposed to: Increase preload. Decrease static sag. Increase rake and trail a bit. Improve action. Stiffen it a bit on heavier compression. After analysis: The front sits a little higher, brake dive is reduced and everything's just a little "firmer" and more confident. Here's what you need if you're doing it in conjunction with a fork oil change: Supplies: A little over 2 feet of Schedule 40 1" PVC pipe. 2 Quarts of your favorite fork oil. Some rags Tools: Ratchet 6" Extension 8,10,12,19 and 22mm sockets. 6mm Allen Socket or Allen Wrench (a crescent wrench could be used in place of the 22mm) A wire hanger Something to use as a dipstick (I used a pistol cleaning rod) A jack Some kind of saw suitable for PVC Optional: A vice or a friend. Time: About an hour Start by breaking the caps free on the top of the forks. You can either unbolt your handlebars and do it with the socket or you can use a 22mm or crescent wrench. Also break the caliper, axle and the triple clamp bolts while the front tire is still on the ground. Jack the front of the bike off the ground and remove the front wheel, then take off the brake caliper and the two cable guides. Remove the fork tubes one at a time. Once you have them off, take off the top cap. Remove the stock spacer. Bend the wire hanger into a hook and use it to pull out the spring and washer. Wipe all of them down and set aside. Pour out the old fork oil into your drain pan, and work the forks a few times to purge all of the oil from the voids. Leave them sitting inverted in your drain pan while you cut the new spacers. The stock spacers are 11 5/8" long. I cut mine 1/2" longer, and according to Fred at Arrowhead, you should not go any more than 3/4" or you risk binding your springs. I marked the PVC with a sharpie at 12 1/8", clamped it in a vice and cut it with a scroll saw. Make sure you make the cut as clean and true as possible and make sure you clean all of the bits and burrs off of the pipe. We don't want those clogging the orifices inside the fork. Make your dipstick by making a mark 125mm (4.92") from the top (stock manual says 135, but we are adding just a little bit more oil to decrease the compressible space above the oil and make a stiffer "bottom" to the fork) When your forks are good and drained, wipe them down. Compress the forks all the way to the bottom. Pour in your new fork oil until it reaches the level you marked on your dipstick, making sure you're holding it plumb while measuring. Once you're satisfied with the oil level, install the spring, washer and spacer into the now fully extended fork. Now here is the tricky part: The cap is aluminum, the fork is steel and the threads are small and fragile. With the longer spacer, you will have to compress the spring a little when you put the cap on. BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS-THREAD THE CAP. I wrapped a rag around the fork and gently clamped it in a vice to hold it steady while I replaced the cap. I also greased the threads of the cap to ensure that there would be no binding when I re-assembled it. Once your caps are back on, simply re-assemble the front end of the bike, and double-check that everything's tight. Enjoy! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

Jeff, Nicly done. I was surprised you did not do kerosene/diesel fuel 'rinse-out' prior to reassembly. During my fork maintenance (complete tear down due to blown seal), the residual crap that came out was scary.... revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > (on a 08+ bike) > > These things combined are supposed to: > > Increase preload. > Decrease static sag. > Increase rake and trail a bit. > Improve action. > Stiffen it a bit on heavier compression. > After analysis: > > > The front sits a little higher, brake dive is reduced and everything's just a little "firmer" and more confident. Here's what you need if you're doing it in conjunction with a fork oil change: > > Supplies: > A little over 2 feet of Schedule 40 1" PVC pipe. > 2 Quarts of your favorite fork oil. > Some rags > > Tools: > Ratchet > 6" Extension > 8,10,12,19 and 22mm sockets. > 6mm Allen Socket or Allen Wrench > (a crescent wrench could be used in place of the 22mm) > A wire hanger > Something to use as a dipstick > (I used a pistol cleaning rod) > A jack > Some kind of saw suitable for PVC > > Optional: > A vice or a friend. > > Time: About an hour > > Start by breaking the caps free on the top of the forks. You can either unbolt your handlebars and do it with the socket or you can use a 22mm or crescent wrench. Also break the caliper, axle and the triple clamp bolts while the front tire is still on the ground. > > Jack the front of the bike off the ground and remove the front wheel, then take off the brake caliper and the two cable guides. Remove the fork tubes one at a time. > > Once you have them off, take off the top cap. Remove the stock spacer. Bend the wire hanger into a hook and use it to pull out the spring and washer. Wipe all of them down and set aside. > > Pour out the old fork oil into your drain pan, and work the forks a few times to purge all of the oil from the voids. Leave them sitting inverted in your drain pan while you cut the new spacers. > > The stock spacers are 11 5/8" long. I cut mine 1/2" longer, and according to Fred at Arrowhead, you should not go any more than 3/4" or you risk binding your springs. I marked the PVC with a sharpie at 12 1/8", clamped it in a vice and cut it with a scroll saw. Make sure you make the cut as clean and true as possible and make sure you clean all of the bits and burrs off of the pipe. We don't want those clogging the orifices inside the fork. > > Make your dipstick by making a mark 125mm (4.92") from the top (stock manual says 135, but we are adding just a little bit more oil to decrease the compressible space above the oil and make a stiffer "bottom" to the fork) > > When your forks are good and drained, wipe them down. Compress the forks all the way to the bottom. Pour in your new fork oil until it reaches the level you marked on your dipstick, making sure you're holding it plumb while measuring. > > Once you're satisfied with the oil level, install the spring, washer and spacer into the now fully extended fork. > > Now here is the tricky part: The cap is aluminum, the fork is steel and the threads are small and fragile. With the longer spacer, you will have to compress the spring a little when you put the cap on. BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS-THREAD THE CAP. I wrapped a rag around the fork and gently clamped it in a vice to hold it steady while I replaced the cap. I also greased the threads of the cap to ensure that there would be no binding when I re-assembled it. > > Once your caps are back on, simply re-assemble the front end of the bike, and double-check that everything's tight. > > Enjoy! > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury writes:

> > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > (on a 08+ bike)

SNIP SNIP SNIP <><><><><> <><><><><> Jeff, Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen II owners. Thanks for sharing. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc

[Mike Huber]

Jeffs X2....What would you suggest for a Gen 1 KLR with progressive springs ??? Can I go longer on the spacer and get the same ride that your getting on yours....I've got alot of sag in the front and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride. I'll definitly try the Royal Purple ATF.... Mike Huber Carlsbad NM To: jeff@... CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: salinej1@... Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 21:00:32 -0600 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury writes:

> > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > (on a 08+ bike)

SNIP SNIP SNIP <><><><><> <><><><><> Jeff, Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen II owners. Thanks for sharing. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . __________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Khoury]

I would defer to Fred on the length of the spacers, he's where I got my information. The idea on overfilling by 10mm came from a MX racing friend of mine, along with a good description of the air pressure dynamics in damper-rod forks. The Royal Purple ATF has a 40C viscosity of 32.5, which makes it roughly equivalent to most 10w fork oils. I chose it because it is: * Full Synthetic * Temperature Stable and * Has good anti-foam properties. Just be aware that in damper-rod forks like the KLR has, both compression and rebound are directly controlled by the oil viscosity, and they are linked. So, if you increase your viscosity to slow down compression, you're also going to slow down rebound since the same orifice is used for both. Cartridge forks and those with cartridge emulators behave differently. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Huber" To: "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2012 8:48:03 PM Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod Jeffs X2....What would you suggest for a Gen 1 KLR with progressive springs ??? Can I go longer on the spacer and get the same ride that your getting on yours....I've got alot of sag in the front and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride. I'll definitly try the Royal Purple ATF.... Mike Huber Carlsbad NM To: jeff@... CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: salinej1@... Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 21:00:32 -0600 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury writes: > > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > (on a 08+ bike) SNIP SNIP SNIP <><><><><> <><><><><> Jeff, Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen II owners. Thanks for sharing. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . __________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links

[Jud]

On Gen 1s, the stock spec for oil level is 190mm below the top, springs out, forks compressed. The CW suggests raising the level 20 mm, to 170mm below the top. The Progressive 1151 springs take spacers that are quite a bit shorter than stock, 2''. You can go a half inch longer if you want more preload, but I was always happy with 2" spacers. I don't think fork dive is excessive with these springs (or with the stockers for that matter). I would rather give the closely-wound "progressive" coils more range of movement before they bind up, for better compliance over small bumps. Just adding these stiffer springs reduces sag sufficiently, IMO. I weigh about 250 lb. YMMV

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Huber wrote: > > > Jeffs X2....What would you suggest for a Gen 1 KLR with progressive springs ??? > Can I go longer on the spacer and get the same ride that your getting on yours....I've got alot of sag in the front and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride. > I'll definitly try the Royal Purple ATF.... > > > Mike Huber > Carlsbad NM > > > > > To: jeff@... > CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > From: salinej1@... > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 21:00:32 -0600 > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod > > > > > > > On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury > writes: > > > > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > > > (on a 08+ bike) > > SNIP SNIP SNIP > > <><><><><> > <><><><><> > > Jeff, > > Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen > II owners. > > Thanks for sharing. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Jud]

This thread is probably as good a place as any to bring up another fork mod that I have been running for about the past nine years, Don Rolando's super trick, super exclusive fork spring bearings. As you may or may not know, when your fork springs compress, they may (or may not) twist slightly, which gives rise to the possibility of fretting between the springs and fork caps. These bearings, which consist of a set of radially disposed needle bearings sandwiched between shells of thin steel, provide for the relief of that fretting. When Don Rolando wished to install such bearings on his KLR's fork springs, he first had to go to some lengths to source an appropriate bearing. Once he found them, he found that the smallest quantity he could purchase was forty, which left him with 38 more bearings than he really needed. To defray the expense of acquiring 38 unnecessary bearings, he offered them for sale to his fellow KLR owners. Because Don Rolando is a nice guy, because I was intrigued by the novel (to me) idea of a fork spring bearing, and mostly because they were cheap, I decided to take a pair off his hands. Before making even a little fool of myself, however, I sent a missive to dirt bike guru Ron Sieman, asking him if there was anything to these devices, or if they were snake oil. Super Hunky replied that yes, indeed, fork spring bearings were in use in the racing industry. The top racers, whose suspension was massaged and refined to the nth degree, often used fork spring bearings to give that last bit of smoothness and compliance to their forks. "That's good enough for me", I said to myself. "If Ricky Carmicheal ever rode my KLR, I would not want him to think that I was the kind of guy who would stint in its preparation." So Don Rolando's super trick, super exclusive fork spring bearings went into my KLR's forks. The cost to me, $4.00 (which explains their mention in this thread). Fork spring bearings: $4.00. The feeling of smugness and superiority because I have them and you don't: Priceless

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > On Gen 1s, the stock spec for oil level is 190mm below the top, springs out, forks compressed. The CW suggests raising the level 20 mm, to 170mm below the top. > The Progressive 1151 springs take spacers that are quite a bit shorter than stock, 2''. You can go a half inch longer if you want more preload, but I was always happy with 2" spacers. > > I don't think fork dive is excessive with these springs (or with the stockers for that matter). I would rather give the closely-wound "progressive" coils more range of movement before they bind up, for better compliance over small bumps. Just adding these stiffer springs reduces sag sufficiently, IMO. I weigh about 250 lb. YMMV > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Huber wrote: > > > > > > Jeffs X2....What would you suggest for a Gen 1 KLR with progressive springs ??? > > Can I go longer on the spacer and get the same ride that your getting on yours....I've got alot of sag in the front and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride. > > I'll definitly try the Royal Purple ATF.... > > > > > > Mike Huber > > Carlsbad NM > > > > > > > > > > To: jeff@ > > CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > From: salinej1@ > > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 21:00:32 -0600 > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury > > writes: > > > > > > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > > > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > > > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > > > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > > > > > (on a 08+ bike) > > > > SNIP SNIP SNIP > > > > <><><><><> > > <><><><><> > > > > Jeff, > > > > Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen > > II owners. > > > > Thanks for sharing. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > . > > . > > __________________________________________________________ > > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >

[Jeffrey]

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/wpump.html print it out and read it while you are doing it the tape(not grease) over the shaft to not ruin the O ring is very important You also pull both case seals outwards. Logic would dictate the inner side case seal is pulled in but no. Read carefully the whole thing and then print it out and read step by step and do step by step.

[dooden]

But did you pregrease them with Relative or True bearing grease ? Could explain missed destinations... Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > This thread is probably as good a place as any to bring up another fork mod that I have been running for about the past nine years, Don Rolando's super trick, super exclusive fork spring bearings. As you may or may not know, when your fork springs compress, they may (or may not) twist slightly, which gives rise to the possibility of fretting between the springs and fork caps. These bearings, which consist of a set of radially disposed needle bearings sandwiched between shells of thin steel, provide for the relief of that fretting. > > When Don Rolando wished to install such bearings on his KLR's fork springs, he first had to go to some lengths to source an appropriate bearing. Once he found them, he found that the smallest quantity he could purchase was forty, which left him with 38 more bearings than he really needed. To defray the expense of acquiring 38 unnecessary bearings, he offered them for sale to his fellow KLR owners. > > Because Don Rolando is a nice guy, because I was intrigued by the novel (to me) idea of a fork spring bearing, and mostly because they were cheap, I decided to take a pair off his hands. Before making even a little fool of myself, however, I sent a missive to dirt bike guru Ron Sieman, asking him if there was anything to these devices, or if they were snake oil. Super Hunky replied that yes, indeed, fork spring bearings were in use in the racing industry. The top racers, whose suspension was massaged and refined to the nth degree, often used fork spring bearings to give that last bit of smoothness and compliance to their forks. > > "That's good enough for me", I said to myself. "If Ricky Carmicheal ever rode my KLR, I would not want him to think that I was the kind of guy who would stint in its preparation." > > So Don Rolando's super trick, super exclusive fork spring bearings went into my KLR's forks. The cost to me, $4.00 (which explains their mention in this thread). > > Fork spring bearings: $4.00. > > The feeling of smugness and superiority because I have them and you don't: Priceless > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > > > On Gen 1s, the stock spec for oil level is 190mm below the top, springs out, forks compressed. The CW suggests raising the level 20 mm, to 170mm below the top. > > The Progressive 1151 springs take spacers that are quite a bit shorter than stock, 2''. You can go a half inch longer if you want more preload, but I was always happy with 2" spacers. > > > > I don't think fork dive is excessive with these springs (or with the stockers for that matter). I would rather give the closely-wound "progressive" coils more range of movement before they bind up, for better compliance over small bumps. Just adding these stiffer springs reduces sag sufficiently, IMO. I weigh about 250 lb. YMMV > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Huber wrote: > > > > > > > > > Jeffs X2....What would you suggest for a Gen 1 KLR with progressive springs ??? > > > Can I go longer on the spacer and get the same ride that your getting on yours....I've got alot of sag in the front and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride. > > > I'll definitly try the Royal Purple ATF.... > > > > > > > > > Mike Huber > > > Carlsbad NM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To: jeff@ > > > CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > > From: salinej1@ > > > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 21:00:32 -0600 > > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] $4.00 fork mod > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Khoury > > > writes: > > > > > > > > It's time for a fork oil change anyway, so based upon my reading and > > > > talking to suspension folks, I'm going to fabricate some new spacers > > > > 1/2" longer (12 1/8"), replace my fork oil with Royal Purple MAX > > > > ATF, and fill it 10mm higher than spe c. > > > > > > > > (on a 08+ bike) > > > > > > SNIP SNIP SNIP > > > > > > <><><><><> > > > <><><><><> > > > > > > Jeff, > > > > > > Great write up. Clear and to the point. I'm sure it will help some Gen > > > II owners. > > > > > > Thanks for sharing. > > > > > > Best, > > > > > > Jeff Saline > > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > > > . > > > . > > > __________________________________________________________ > > > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > > > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f65520521c2b2501d00st02vuc > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >