SNIP>I RESPECTFULLY disagree. The Bikemaster is an ok chain but it isn't the >chain that the DiD VM series is.
SNIP>The DiD VM >description in my catalog says: ".....50 - 100% longer wear life >than standard O-ring chain."
By price comparison of the two chains off of Fred's site, this is true ONLY if the DID VM chain lasts 94%-100% longer than the Bikemaster o-ring chain. Mark (tightwad extraordinaire)> So like I said before the Bikemaster O-ring is an OK >chain but you get what you pay for.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai650" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 10:47 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Chain Question > At 10:18 AM -0600 5/15/03, Fred Hink wrote: > >I RESPECTFULLY disagree. The Bikemaster is an ok chain but it isn't the > >chain that the DiD VM series is. > SNIP > >The DiD VM > >description in my catalog says: ".....50 - 100% longer wear life > >than standard O-ring chain." > SNIP > > So like I said before the Bikemaster O-ring is an OK > >chain but you get what you pay for. > > By price comparison of the two chains off of Fred's site, this is > true ONLY if the DID VM chain lasts 94%-100% longer than the > Bikemaster o-ring chain. > Mark (tightwad extraordinaire) > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >
In all seriousness - I think - making a check of what I've done and plan to do. I think Fred's right. Let's go by your stats, T-Mark. So you save $ 50 ? That's $ 25 per year based on my last two year's mileage - 10k per. I spend close to that when I take my family to McDonald's. My wife buys $ 12 bottles of wine. Why should I compromise on chain quality ? Bogdan, who's on his second DID Xgold.> > So like I said before the Bikemaster O-ring is an OK > >chain but you get what you pay for. > > By price comparison of the two chains off of Fred's site, this is > true ONLY if the DID VM chain lasts 94%-100% longer than the > Bikemaster o-ring chain. > Mark (tightwad extraordinaire) >
Actually, you save $56.25. I generally run a DID standard o-ring or an RK standard o-ring chain that I buy anywhere from $40 on ebay to $64.00 at my local parts pimp. My standard o-ring chains consistently last me 15,000 miles, which makes the DID Gold only 40% more durable. I seriously doubt there is a huge effect on horsepower and an even lesser effect on MPG. I recently switched to a freer-rolling DID non-o-ring race chain on my beater and my gas mileage is the same. Big deal if I have to do the labor to change a chain a few months sooner; it's an extremely simple task. So ya, I save $55-$65, but it's less money that I have to shell out at once for a single part. If I only have $117 to spend, I can buy a cheaper chain and use the rest on other accessories or my McDonald's (I avoid fast food like the plague anyway) or wine. Don't forget, I have three bikes to maintain, and I like to keep 'em all up & running. When living $1 above the poverty level for a family of 5, every cent counts, and we do alright. Mark (money is money)>> > So like I said before the Bikemaster O-ring is an OK >> >chain but you get what you pay for. >> >> By price comparison of the two chains off of Fred's site, this is >> true ONLY if the DID VM chain lasts 94%-100% longer than the >> Bikemaster o-ring chain. >> Mark (tightwad extraordinaire) >> > In all seriousness - I think - making a check of what I've done >and plan to do. I think Fred's right. Let's go by your stats, T-Mark. So >you save $ 50 ? That's $ 25 per year based on my last two year's mileage - >10k per. I spend close to that when I take my family to McDonald's. My >wife buys $ 12 bottles of wine. Why should I compromise on chain quality ? > > Bogdan, who's on his second DID Xgold.
However...this> unreliable sources. Who is this Gino Pokluda guy anyway ??
unknown:> comes from my personal experience not the opinions of some flaky
unison. It> Like many I change the three components of the drive train in
miles> did seem my DID gold was good for more when I changed it at 21k
cheaper albeit> but...the countershaft sprocket was shot and the rear was showing > significant wear. Would I have been just as well off with a
> less excellent chain ? > > Bogdan
----- Original Message ----- From: "gpokluda" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 4:59 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Chain Question > Different strokes for different folks I guess. For the KLR, I have > no problem with putting Bike Master on, but I always change > sprockets when I change the chain. Maybe if I had a more spendier > bike or I had a stack of name brand chains I had to get rid of like > Fred does, I'd change my tune [G] > > Gino > www.rvmc.com > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Bogdan Swider" > > Mea Culp...I guess I should check their reputations before I > quote > > unreliable sources. Who is this Gino Pokluda guy anyway ?? > However...this > > comes from my personal experience not the opinions of some flaky > unknown: > > Like many I change the three components of the drive train in > unison. It > > did seem my DID gold was good for more when I changed it at 21k > miles > > but...the countershaft sprocket was shot and the rear was showing > > significant wear. Would I have been just as well off with a > cheaper albeit > > less excellent chain ? > > > > Bogdan > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >
I am in agreement here. I have never had a chain reach the wear limit on any of my bikes. The sprockets wear out and the rollers get real floppy, but the chains never do elongate very far. A superior o-ring seal or a larger pin (like in the DID X-ring compared to the O-ring) won't help here. RM>in unison. It did seem my DID gold was good for more when I changed it at >21k miles but...the countershaft sprocket was shot and the rear was >showing significant wear. Would I have been just as well off with a >cheaper albeit less excellent chain ?
Agreed here too. I let my eyes be the guide. If sprocket looks good, then it is good. I re-used the rear on my ZR-7. Next time around I'll flip it over. I expect 60k total miles from the rear sprocket on this bike. Not bad.>You have to go with the flo. I am guilty of running new sprockets on >worn chains. The reason was my new at the time XR600 had alloy rear >sprocket that was worn out and the chain felt just like a new chain >because basically it was. So I replaced just the sprockets and run them >to wear out the last of the chain. If you have chain left and your >sprockets are worn, it wouldn't hurt to put on new sprockets just to get >the last out of a good chain. I don't like running worn chains any >longer than I have to because it isn't safe and I don't want to have to >work on my chain or patch holes in my engine out in the boonies. If you >feel you have lots of miles left in either the chain or the sprockets, it >may be cost effective to replace one and not the other. It is always >better for the bike (not necessarily for your bank account) to replace >the chain and sprockets as a set.
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, RM wrote: > > On Thu, 15 May 2003, Fred Hink wrote: > > >You have to go with the flo. I am guilty of running new sprockets on > >worn chains. The reason was my new at the time XR600 had alloy rear > >sprocket that was worn out and the chain felt just like a new chain > >because basically it was. So I replaced just the sprockets and run them > >to wear out the last of the chain. If you have chain left and your > >sprockets are worn, it wouldn't hurt to put on new sprockets just to get > >the last out of a good chain. I don't like running worn chains any > >longer than I have to because it isn't safe and I don't want to have to > >work on my chain or patch holes in my engine out in the boonies. If you > >feel you have lots of miles left in either the chain or the sprockets, it > >may be cost effective to replace one and not the other. It is always > >better for the bike (not necessarily for your bank account) to replace > >the chain and sprockets as a set. > > Agreed here too. > > I let my eyes be the guide. If sprocket looks good, then it is good. > > I re-used the rear on my ZR-7. Next time around I'll flip it over. I > expect 60k total miles from the rear sprocket on this bike. Not bad.
The chain that totally SLAUGHTERED my last rear sprocket was a DID X-ring. Trust me, it was a bad sprocket.>You have to ask yourself though! What is it that wears out your >sprockets. Could it be HHMMMMMMMM? The............ Chain? Maybe with a >quality chain, sprockets wouldn't wear out!
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