choke cable eliminator on ebay.

DSN_KLR650
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George Bynum
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2010 6:33 am

oil viscosities

Post by George Bynum » Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:55 am

"Jeff Khoury", DsrtEgl, said ...
> The first number refers to the cold pumping viscosity, the lower the > better. A 0w-40 and a 15w-40 have the same viscosity at operating > temperature.
+1 on the above. The only clarification I'll offer is that the "operating" measurement is made at 100C, and engine oil often exceeds that "some". The viscosity curves MAY not track exactly ... but we usually ignore that minor difference.
> It will make no difference, in fact... they're better for your engine > because they pump better at startup, which is where most wear happens.
I disagree a little here. If the 0W50 remained 0W50 through its life, there is absolutely no argument that it would be excellent. According to most experts, the issue is that the wider the spread in viscosities at reference temperatures, the shorter the time until the products "shear down". This shearing seems to occur more quickly in gear systems than in engine only systems, in other words, common transmission/engine sump systems are more "damaging" to multi- viscosity oils than engine only. I'm one who likes the 5W40 Rotella T6 ... in the winter. I ride about 4000 miles a year, and use "regular" 15W40 Rotella in my spring change, the synthetic in my fall change. In particular, I find the cold cranking superior with the 5W fluid ... although not by much. In my OPINION, the superior pumpability (is that a word?) helps the first 1 or 2 minutes as well. I find that the shifting with the T6 near EOL (1500-2000 miles) is poorer than with the regular at its EOL (2000-2500 miles). Just my 2 cents worth ... I'm a hydraulics guy with lots of oil experience.

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeffrey » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:03 am

If you really want to go OCD, rig preoilers on your engines. http://revolutionmarine.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/preoilers.html

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeffrey » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:11 am

http://revolutionmarine.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/oilcoolers.html Anybody rigged an oil cooler to their KLR? A power steering cooler would be easiest to fit. Some cars just have a copper line run in front of the radiator. I have an extra KLR oil line from my blown engine that I could cutup/splice to make work. J#3

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

oil viscosities

Post by Jeff Saline » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:24 am

On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 15:11:07 -0000 "Jeffrey" writes:
> http://revolutionmarine.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/oilcoolers.html > > Anybody rigged an oil cooler to their KLR? > > A power steering cooler would be easiest to fit. Some cars just > have a copper line run in front of the radiator. > > I have an extra KLR oil line from my blown engine that I could > cutup/splice to make work. > > J#3
<><><><><><> <><><><><><> If I recall correctly... Wattman's data and our conversations suggest the oil usually doesn't get anywhere near as hot as a guy might really want it to get. Takes a lot of hard riding to get the oil to operating temps. Probably not much need for an oil cooler. I don't recall ever hearing about someone installing one on a KLR. I think you could check Wattman's website to see his public data and comments. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ LifeLock Official Site Identity Theft Can Happen to Anyone So Get Protection with LifeLock. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ede33bca6118824972st03vuc

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeffrey » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:31 am

In the summer when I am riding in the desert or just around LA, CA in traffic, my (coolant) temp gauge regularly goes 3/4 of the way to the right. I would assume that also means the oil is very hot also. J#3

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

oil viscosities

Post by Jeff Saline » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:49 am

On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 15:31:03 -0000 "Jeffrey" writes:
> In the summer when I am riding in the desert or just around LA, CA in > traffic, my (coolant) temp gauge regularly goes 3/4 of the way to > the right. I would assume that also means the oil is very hot > also. > > J#3
<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Logical thinking but I think Wattman's data showed the oil was still pretty cool compared to coolant temps. I think about 3/4 of the gauge is 240-250 degrees. Kind of depends on what a person is referring to as 3/4. : ) You and your KLR sound like good candidates for a second radiator. I found it works wonders on my KLR cooling system temps. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rate at 2.63% $200,000 loan for $803/month. See New Payment - No SSN Rqd. Save Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ede397e69c5182645cst04vuc

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeffrey » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:55 am

I looked at the KLR650 Oil Line on the running engine and the extra one I have from the blown engine. It doesn't look like much work to cut out a section near the carb and weld in a line that would go to front edge of the left side of the barrel/below the radiator exposed into the wind but still protected from hazards(and back). Could do a little maze of tubing there or add an actual small oil cooler there. J#3

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeff Khoury » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:42 am

I agree with you that with T6 shifting gets "chunky" near the end of its life. Actually, I don't find that to be as big of a deal as being hard to find neutral, which is the biggest commplaint I have with it. I've found that the Mobil 1 "turbodiesel" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour.
----- Original Message ----- From: "George Bynum" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 6, 2011 5:55:12 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Oil viscosities "Jeff Khoury", DsrtEgl, said ... > The first number refers to the cold pumping viscosity, the lower the > better. A 0w-40 and a 15w-40 have the same viscosity at operating > temperature. +1 on the above. The only clarification I'll offer is that the "operating" measurement is made at 100C, and engine oil often exceeds that "some". The viscosity curves MAY not track exactly ... but we usually ignore that minor difference. > It will make no difference, in fact... they're better for your engine > because they pump better at startup, which is where most wear happens. I disagree a little here. If the 0W50 remained 0W50 through its life, there is absolutely no argument that it would be excellent. According to most experts, the issue is that the wider the spread in viscosities at reference temperatures, the shorter the time until the products "shear down". This shearing seems to occur more quickly in gear systems than in engine only systems, in other words, common transmission/engine sump systems are more "damaging" to multi- viscosity oils than engine only. I'm one who likes the 5W40 Rotella T6 ... in the winter. I ride about 4000 miles a year, and use "regular" 15W40 Rotella in my spring change, the synthetic in my fall change. In particular, I find the cold cranking superior with the 5W fluid ... although not by much. In my OPINION, the superior pumpability (is that a word?) helps the first 1 or 2 minutes as well. I find that the shifting with the T6 near EOL (1500-2000 miles) is poorer than with the regular at its EOL (2000-2500 miles). Just my 2 cents worth ... I'm a hydraulics guy with lots of oil experience.

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

oil viscosities

Post by Jeffrey » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:07 am

Diesel Mobil 1 is hard to fine esp. on sale. Though, I have used conventional diesel oils for gas cars and motos for years. Diesel oils just have more detergents in them. And if they are rec'd for turbo diesels, they can handle heat well also. J#3

dat brooklyn bum
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:03 pm

choke cable eliminator on ebay.

Post by dat brooklyn bum » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:16 am

Best fix for a KLR rider (ie: cheapest), is to wait until you break the handlebar mounted lever (why replace it if it ain't broken yet). Then, cut the cable about 6-8" away from the carb, remove the sheathing to expose a long enough section of the cable itself and make a loop out of it. When I did this to my first KLR, I was able to make the loop just the right length to pull it out and hook it over an allen bolt that sat as a spare where the sidestand safety switch and housing used to be mounted. Or you could give me $1000, and I will fly out and do it for you. I'll even bring a chrome-plated allen bolt if you want some bling out of your cha-ching. da Vermonster

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