klr650 with zx10 motor

[vintageracer8882]

--- i use shell rosmella T ... oops i mean rotella T. this stuff is meant for diesel engines which are higher compression, kinda like our bikes. works great in my cummins and my klr. only down side is that this stuff stinks a little when new ( rosmella is the nickname in the diesel community ). check out there website, theres an article about m/c oil on there somewhere. rotella T 15/40 all year. scott In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, John Kokola wrote:

> Oil thread ... already? It's only October! > > I agree, use any oil ... but use an appropriate weight. The

thicker the oil, the longer it takes to reach the top end. Sure, a thicker oil will leave a better film behind, but that's not the best approach for start-up lubrication (the most critical period).

> > Bypass valves on oil filters rarely open because the filter clogs.

They open on startup because cold oil is too thick to go through a filter. The colder the ambient temperature, and the higher viscosity grade of the oil, the longer the bypass valve remains open.

> > Personally I've never seen a clutch slip because an oil (like many

bike-specific oils) containing moly was used, nor have I ever seen a lubrication-related failure. I highly recommend the 3-part series on oil by Motorcycle Consumer News from a couple of years ago, I believe the entire series is available as a special reprint.

> > I like synthetics because of their flow properties at low

temperatures and their resistance to breakdown at high temperatures.

> > --John Kokola > > -----Original Message----- > From: nakedwaterskier > Sent: Oct 20, 2004 10:54 AM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] OIL > > > > Thicker oil doesn't flow back dn hill easily so thick oil is fine

at

> startup.

[nakedwaterskier]

Choosing the Right Motor Oil What to Look for on a Motor Oil Label The symbol at left is referred to as the "API donut." It gives you three pieces of information. API (American Petroleum Institute) Service Rating: This two-letter classification identifies the vehicle fuel type and quality level of the motor oil. The first letter indicates the vehicle fuel type that the oil is designed for. Ratings that begin with an "S" are intended for gasoline engines. Ratings that begin with a "C" are for diesel engine. The second letter designates the quality level of the motor oil. The higher the letter, the more advanced the oil and the more protection it offers your engine. An SJ oil can be used in any engine requiring an SB, SG, SH, etc. oil. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Viscosity Grade Viscosity is a measure of an oil's thickness, or resistance to flow. Lower numbers indicate thinner oil and higher numbers indicate thicker oil. There are two types of motor oils, single grade and multi-grade. Multigrade oil such as a 10W-30, are designed to have the viscosity of an SAE 10W oil at cold temperatures combined with the viscosity of an SAE 30 oil at engine operating temperatures. The "W" or "Winter" designation indicates that the oil meets viscosity requirements for low temperatures (below 30 F). Energy Conserving Oils displaying this phase are formulated with friction modifiers to improve fuel economy in an industry standard test. ILSAC The International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) in association with the API created a symbol for the front of the bottle that indicates an oil meets both the latest performance category, SJ, and the Energy Conserving standard.

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> > Choosing the Right Motor Oil >

There is a secret document that contains the secret info needed to choose the correct lubricant : the owner's manual. Mine says 10w40, I usually run Honda GN 10w40, or Golden Spectro 10w40 if I'm not going to my local Honda/Kawi dealer. Thanks CA Stu

[dooden]

Your wrong !!! ( There... somebody had to say it... ) Just kidding... Oil and a KLR... My take.. Change it, keep it full. Myself I use 15w40 SuperTech (WalMart brand $4~$5 a Gallon) Previously was using Delvac 1300 again Walmart about $6 a gallon. They were out of stock the last time I needed it and I grabbed Supertech. Dooden A15 Green Ape Spend all you want, its your bike and your wallet.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" wrote: > > Like the FAQ says... you'll get a million different answers. I have > heard (and believe) that the only major difference between car oil > and bike oil is that car oil has detergents in it that can cause the > bike clutch to slip. I have actually felt it on my big high hp > street bikes... swapped in bike oil and it was fine. I don't think > the KLR produces enough power to slip the clutch anyway, so I > personally am going to use the Castrol 10-40 and see how it goes. If > anybody disagrees, don't hesitate to tell me I'm wrong... > ~Eric > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "boldrider26" wrote: > > > > What to use?? > > FAQ suggests Castrol GTX which does not have the API ratings listed > > in the KLR manual. Castrol motorcycle 20w-50 does, but is this not > a > > bit thick leading to poor lubrication at startup? Recommedations > > greatly appreciated.

[vintageracer8882]

--- i agree with dooden. change it more than the book says to, keep it full, keep it clean. i do this with rotella t even though the stuff last 6 - 8000 mi in my cummins. scott In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:

> > Your wrong !!! ( There... somebody had to say it... ) > > Just kidding... > > Oil and a KLR... My take.. > > Change it, keep it full. > > Myself I use 15w40 SuperTech (WalMart brand $4~$5 a Gallon) > > Previously was using Delvac 1300 again Walmart about $6 a gallon. > > They were out of stock the last time I needed it and I grabbed

Supertech.

> > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > Spend all you want, its your bike and your wallet. > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" wrote: > > > > Like the FAQ says... you'll get a million different answers. I

have

> > heard (and believe) that the only major difference between car

oil

> > and bike oil is that car oil has detergents in it that can cause

the

> > bike clutch to slip. I have actually felt it on my big high hp > > street bikes... swapped in bike oil and it was fine. I don't

think

> > the KLR produces enough power to slip the clutch anyway, so I > > personally am going to use the Castrol 10-40 and see how it

goes. If

> > anybody disagrees, don't hesitate to tell me I'm wrong... > > ~Eric > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "boldrider26"

wrote:

> > > > > > What to use?? > > > FAQ suggests Castrol GTX which does not have the API ratings

listed

> > > in the KLR manual. Castrol motorcycle 20w-50 does, but is this

not

> > a > > > bit thick leading to poor lubrication at startup?

Recommedations

> > > greatly appreciated.

[JJNeet1@aol.com]

I used Mobile One 15w-50 red cap in my 2001 KLR250. Before, when using "dino" oil, I often missed the 1st to 2nd shift, unless a very slow, deliberate shift was made. After the swithc to Mobil One, I lierally never missed the shift again. I changed oil just the day before I traded it in on my 2005 KLR650.By then, the weather was pretty cold, and I noticed it started a bit harder and the choke didn't raise the rpms up like it did before. I think the fresh oil was a bit thick in viscosity for the colder temp? Anyway, my clutch never had a slipping problem. Jon Neet [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[nakedwaterskier]

0 miles 800mi 1500mi Mobil 1 100% 86.6% 83.0% Castrol Syntec 100 78.1 74.5 Castrol GTX 100 72.2 68 Honda HP4 100 69.2 65.6 Spectro 4 100% 68 63.9 the gtx might be better and cheaper than your synthetic j

[Michael T]

Naked, you don't choose investments with a similar singular indices model, so look again at the bigger picture - DUCATI - dry clutch - humm.. Michael T 02 KLR650 A16 85 Venture Royale AMA222213 lasvegasrider@... -----Original Message----- From: nakedwaterskier [mailto:nakedwaterskier@...] Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 3:50 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Oil 0 miles 800mi 1500mi Mobil 1 100% 86.6% 83.0% Castrol Syntec 100 78.1 74.5 Castrol GTX 100 72.2 68 Honda HP4 100 69.2 65.6 Spectro 4 100% 68 63.9 the gtx might be better and cheaper than your synthetic j Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links

[nakedwaterskier]

Neither mobil 1 nor castrol gtx hurts wet clutches; at least, from KLRistas I have talked to. Although, I prefer the cheap stuff and change it more often. But, when I see Mobil 1 on sale, I am probably going to make a switch in all my vehicles. J

[fasteddiecopeman]

Castrol Syntec is NOT a full synthetic! CAR and DRIVER's Patrick Bedard did a column on it about a year ago. Ed --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> > 0 miles 800mi 1500mi > Mobil 1 100% 86.6% 83.0% > Castrol Syntec 100 78.1 74.5 > Castrol GTX 100 72.2 68 > Honda HP4 100 69.2 65.6 > Spectro 4 100% 68 63.9 > > the gtx might be better and cheaper than your synthetic > > j