kacr (was "685 kit advice: break-in and mods"

[James W. Flower]

The good: the slide hammer with the blind bearing collet popped the ring right out on the first try. The bad: a little piece of the top lip of the bearing race is broken out. I'm about to try the bearing puller to actually pull the bearing, because it looks like I was wrong in thinking the bearing must be removed from within. NEW PROBLEM (maybe): Assuming the broken-off piece of the bearing race is inside the clutch case now, is that bad enough to warrant removing the case? The piece is roughly rectangular, about 1/8" x 1/16". -JWF JWF to John and the group September 19, 2011 5:06:02 PM PDT:

> John- That bulge is the nice smooth top of the seal ring, on which the manual says the bottom of the lever is supposed to ride. And that ring is all that's left. The rubber, with its internal spring band, are out. Hey, maybe if I put them back in they'll add enough meat to catch and hold the tip of the seal pick, or whatever of the zillions of prying tools I've tried. > I can't get a screwdriver, even a little one ground down sharp and bent just right, between the bottom of the seal and the top surface of the seat that's cast into the clutch cover. The only place I can get a purchase without damaging the casting is under the top rim of the seal ring. > I tried that same improvised tool vertically between the outside of the ring and the inside of the casting, but it started making a groove in the casting, without moving or deforming the ring at all, so I quit. Maybe I should make another identical tool out of a poorer quality of metal, so that the tool (or the seal ring, I hope) will give before the casting does. Thanks again for the brainstorming. -JWF > > On Sep 19, 2011, at 4:27 PM, Cox, John wrote: > >> Agree. I went out and looked at mine. It bulges up kind of like a donut. Is the problem that you have already removed the metal from the outside part of the seal? One way I have used in the past is to put a screwdriver in and lever one side out - may take some iterations levering from different sides. >> >> I happen to have a series of photos of the Eagle Mike modified lever installed in my A17 if it will help you let me know. >> >> Very Respectfully, >> >> John Cox >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: James W. Flower [mailto:jwflower53@...] >> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 4:16 PM >> To: KLR650 DSN >> Cc: RobertWichert; Cox, John >> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] *%#&#*! Oil Seal! >> >> Not much risk to the bearing, John, since the lips on the puller collet will only hook underneath the top lip of the seal, and it will be an upward pull from there. But it's true that the farther I expand the collet jaws to best grab the underside of the lip, the tighter they will push against the sides. But the side contact will be minimal, since the edges of the collet jaws will be angled by the time it spreads out enough to get under the rim. >> And it the puller just bends the whole rim straight up, it'll be easier to cut, Twist and Rip, etc., and I can still pound the lip inward per Walt's method. If I use more random, destructive methods (sounds fun though) first, to no avail, I may not even be able to try the puller. >> >> On Sep 19, 2011, at 2:57 PM, Cox, John wrote: >> >>> I would try Walt's method or some variant first. The metal seal part should be pretty thin and weak and easy to destructively remove. >>> >>> I'd be concerned that your bearing might exert too much radial force on either the bearing or the case. >>> >>> Very Respectfully, >>> >>> John Cox >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of James W. Flower >>> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 2:53 PM >>> To: KLR650 DSN >>> Cc: RobertWichert >>> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] *%#&#*! Oil Seal! >>> >>> Robert, I did try that, with several variations on the tool. Even with a good grip, I can't pull hard enough to budge it. >>> I did think of a new thing: I have a slide hammer and some blind bearing puller collets. I think one of the collets will fit into the rim. It's divided into four 90-degree wedges, all of which will expand out so that I catch nearly 360 degrees of the underside of the rim. Worth a try! -JWF >>> >>> On Sep 19, 2011, at 2:34 PM, RobertWichert wrote: >>> >>>> OK, I'm sure you have tried this, but I would try to grab the lip of the seal rim with a pair of needle nosed vice grips and pull it to pieces. >>>> >>>> I am a little heavy handed at times though, so maybe this isn't your idea of a repair. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Robert P Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP >>>> +1 916 966 9060 >>>> FAX +1 916 966 9068 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> =========================================================== >>>> >>>> On 9/19/2011 2:21 PM, JWF wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I still can't get the remnants of the clutch release lever oil seal out. The rubber part's out, along with it's spring-steel band. The metal outer rim is stuck fast so far. The seal pick recommended in Clymer, and many other prying devises, just deform the lip of the rim. Lots of Liquid Wrench: no help. Heat (only 190 , the clutch cover is still installed so I was shy about heat): no help. >>>>> Aside from the hassle of removing the clutch cover, it might not help: as far as I can tell, the seal can only come out from the outside (and the bearing can only go in from the inside; but the bearing is fine). So the only advantages would be freer use of heat, and maybe having more clearance would help. But I don't have a good way to secure the loose cover that would be as good as leaving it on the bike. >>>>> She goes in the shop tomorrow morning if I can't get her today. I like the shop, but this is the kind of job that could be as hard for them as for me, and as time-consuming (read "expensive"). Any ideas appreciated, especially if my vision of the anatomy of the cover/bearing/seal is wrong. Thanks- JWF >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------------ >>> >>> List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com >>> Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com >>> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >>> Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map >>> Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >> >

[JWF]

I guess the KACR is reliable enough absent oil problems, eh? As far as I can tell it's a disc with two weights attached, that are forced centrifugally outward when the motor starts turning. At some point a spring pulls them back to the center. That disc is on a shaft that's in line with the exhaust camshaft, opening an exhaust valve. It's magic to me, but I can see there's no converting it to a manual lever setup. (Is there?) -JWF

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "kaykuri" wrote: > > Hi all, > > Long story short: I had the unfortunate opportunity to disassemble the engine on my '08 KLR (KACR sheared a gash in the valve cover and then exploded into about 6 pieces). While it was open, I decided to go ahead and have the Schnitz 685 kit installed, mostly in the hopes of stemming the rather alarming rate of oil evaporation I had been experiencing (and which likely contributed to the unfortunate opportunity). . . . John