well, it wasn't the carb.

[Kevin Powers]

A while back I noted a problem with my '04 KLR stumbling at highway speeds, typically at about 5K rpm. I cleaned out the jets but that didn't fix things, then I replaced the diaphragm and slide, but the problem is still occuring and I've concluded it isn't related to the carb. I've had another ongoing issue, a slow knocking sound from the engine. I suspected that it was a cam chain noise and replaced my cam chain tensioner. (I used one from Paul Streeter and had offers of cam chain tensioners from other listers as well - who knew there were so many generous people with cam chain tensioners lying about?!) After I took the bike for the post-carb work test ride the knock is still there. Well I'm flummoxed at this point and afraid there is something wrong deep in the bowels of the engine. -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Hilton]

DualSportNews' KLR650 Discussion ListI've never done this my self but I've watched my mechanic father in law take a good grade nut and electric weld it to the top of the broken bolt. He welds through the hole in the center of the nut, then hew uses a wrench and backs it out. I've seen him do this on an aluminum block. Impressive. Mike H.

----- Original Message ----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 4:10 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Digest Number 11734 DualSportNews' KLR650 Discussion List Messages In This Digest (15 Messages) 1a. Re: Good to be back From: RobertWichert 2a. HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! From: simoninthewoods 2b. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! From: Fred Hink 2c. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! From: Jeff Saline 2d. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! From: klrdon@... 3. GPS Trail Tech Voyager integrated with Instruments/Gauges From: Jeffrey 4a. Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: JWF 4b. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: Horton Oliphant 4c. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: Jeff Saline 4d. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: RobertWichert 4e. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: Ronald Criswell 4f. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) From: Jeffrey 5. bike for sale (hurt back again I am 61 years old) From: Eddie 6. Still plenty of trails and places to get lost around wild LA, CA, US From: Jeffrey 7. Woohoo I finally got the klr put back together. From: David Bowden View All Topics | Create New Topic Messages 1a. Re: Good to be back Posted by: "RobertWichert" robert@... robertwichert Sat May 21, 2011 8:21 am (PDT) Hi Joe, Nice to meet you. This IS a great group. I never said this to anyone before but when I joined this group all of a sudden Graeme Hoose, who I have known for fifteen(?) years, shows up here too! What a shock! But a good shock. Anyway, it's a good group that's for sure. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 5/20/2011 9:47 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Sat, 21 May 2011 04:27:16 -0000 "Joe" > writes: > > Crazy how things happen. > > > > Joe Tittiger from Fort Myers FL now in Seymour MO > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Joe, > > Welcome back. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Groupon™ Official Site > 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd778ab9e09154a22est06vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (3) 2a. HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! Posted by: "simoninthewoods" simoninthewoods@... simoninthewoods Sat May 21, 2011 10:20 am (PDT) Greetings fellow klristas! I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam caps yet). Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike runs fine. Any thoughts?? Many thanks Simon Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (4) 2b. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! Posted by: "Fred Hink" moabmc@... moabmc1 Sat May 21, 2011 10:27 am (PDT) Try turning the engine over again to TDC. Your decompression system may be holding this valve open. If you hear a click, that is the decompression system kicking off and the valve should be fully closed. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: simoninthewoods Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 11:20 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! Greetings fellow klristas! I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam caps yet). Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike runs fine. Any thoughts?? Many thanks Simon [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (4) 2c. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! Posted by: "Jeff Saline" salinej1@... jeffsaline Sat May 21, 2011 12:54 pm (PDT) On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:20:41 -0000 "simoninthewoods" writes: > Greetings fellow klristas! > I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it > has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the > rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking > the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have > got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam > caps yet). > Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust > valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is > 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has > been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large > exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust > shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am > I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing > mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike > runs fine. > Any thoughts?? > Many thanks > Simon <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Simon, I'd try first what Fred is suggesting with turning the engine over another 360 degrees. But I don't think that will do the job for you. Those are really huge gaps and the only things I can think of that would cause that is carbon on valve faces holding the valves open or bent/sticky valves and they aren't closing all the way under slow engine rotation. I think if I was working on this bike I'd probably pull the cams and shims and buckets. Then I'd measure the height of the valves and then tap on them with a soft faced hammer. Maybe the tapping would allow the valves to close a bit more if they are sticking. If nothing changed I'd probably pull the header pipe and look in the exhaust port to see what I could learn from that. Then I imagine I'd be pulling the head to fix the valves. Valve clearances don't get larger with normal wear. As the valve face and seat wear the valve moves deeper into the head and that moves the stem closer to the cam. That's what makes the clearance get smaller. By putting in a thinner shim you adjust the clearance to manufacturers specs. I can't imagine anyone putting the engine together with the kind of clearances you've described. You must have had to use stacked feeler gauges just to get the clearances figured out. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . __________________________________________________________ SHOCKING: iPad 2 Only $18.55 - 95% Off U.S Based auction site giving away 1000 iPads, TV's, PS3's at 95% off Retail! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd81825c9d6ef75st01vuc Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (4) 2d. Re: HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! Posted by: "klrdon@..." klrdon@... klrdon Sat May 21, 2011 4:37 pm (PDT) Shim to proper gap and check again in a while. Maybe the fault is the last (original?) adjustment or factory assembly. It seems it is usually the simple stuff that is the problem with these bikes. Don M -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Saline Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 3:52 PM To: simoninthewoods@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!! On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:20:41 -0000 "simoninthewoods" writes: > Greetings fellow klristas! > I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it > has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the > rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking > the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have > got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam > caps yet). > Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust > valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is > 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has > been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large > exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust > shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am > I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing > mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike > runs fine. > Any thoughts?? > Many thanks > Simon <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Simon, I'd try first what Fred is suggesting with turning the engine over another 360 degrees. But I don't think that will do the job for you. Those are really huge gaps and the only things I can think of that would cause that is carbon on valve faces holding the valves open or bent/sticky valves and they aren't closing all the way under slow engine rotation. I think if I was working on this bike I'd probably pull the cams and shims and buckets. Then I'd measure the height of the valves and then tap on them with a soft faced hammer. Maybe the tapping would allow the valves to close a bit more if they are sticking. If nothing changed I'd probably pull the header pipe and look in the exhaust port to see what I could learn from that. Then I imagine I'd be pulling the head to fix the valves. Valve clearances don't get larger with normal wear. As the valve face and seat wear the valve moves deeper into the head and that moves the stem closer to the cam. That's what makes the clearance get smaller. By putting in a thinner shim you adjust the clearance to manufacturers specs. I can't imagine anyone putting the engine together with the kind of clearances you've described. You must have had to use stacked feeler gauges just to get the clearances figured out. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . __________________________________________________________ SHOCKING: iPad 2 Only $18.55 - 95% Off U.S Based auction site giving away 1000 iPads, TV's, PS3's at 95% off Retail! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd81825c9d6ef75st01vuc ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1375 / Virus Database: 1509/3651 - Release Date: 05/21/11 Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (4) 3. GPS Trail Tech Voyager integrated with Instruments/Gauges Posted by: "Jeffrey" nakedwaterskier@... nakedwaterskier Sat May 21, 2011 10:24 am (PDT) anybody tried this out? Any good? Jeffrey #3 Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (1) 4a. Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "JWF" jwflower53@... jwflower53 Sat May 21, 2011 10:54 am (PDT) Hi all- I may keep that Lexx aftermarket muffler after all. The two aft drain bolts on the stock muffler are frozen, with the heads twisted off (I didn't do it, I swear!). I'm still struggling with the first one. With gallons of Liquid Wrench and 400 degrees of heat, I've tried a Craftsman "Screw Out", and what I call an "Easy Out". The tip of the Easy Out is now broken off in the pilot hole I drilled in the bolt. Before I broke off the tip of the Easy Out, I was about to drill both holes out to the next biggest bolt size. Now I can't drill out the Easy Out: it's too jagged to get the drill started, and I suspect it's too hard for the drill bit to get through. I tried driving the Easy Out into the muffler, but the inner end of the hole I drilled in the bolt is too small. Was 400 degrees not hot enough? I still have the second frozen bolt to experiment on... Any ideas appreciated. -JWF Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 4b. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "Horton Oliphant" hortonhearsawho@... alhendersonusa Sat May 21, 2011 12:06 pm (PDT) Those aren't drain bolts but rather where carbon is supposed to be removed by tapping on the muffler. Since almost no one has ever had anything come out of the holes, I wouldn't worry about them. I did the ritual cleaning and never had any thing come out. The machine screws decided to not come out and I decided to not tap on my muffler any more. Problem fixed! Alan Henderson A13 Iowa On 5/21/2011 12:54 PM, JWF wrote: > > Hi all- I may keep that Lexx aftermarket muffler after all. The two > aft drain bolts on the stock muffler are frozen, with the heads > twisted off (I didn't do it, I swear!). I'm still struggling with the > first one. With gallons of Liquid Wrench and 400 degrees of heat, I've > tried a Craftsman "Screw Out", and what I call an "Easy Out". The tip > of the Easy Out is now broken off in the pilot hole I drilled in the bolt. > Before I broke off the tip of the Easy Out, I was about to drill both > holes out to the next biggest bolt size. Now I can't drill out the > Easy Out: it's too jagged to get the drill started, and I suspect it's > too hard for the drill bit to get through. I tried driving the Easy > Out into the muffler, but the inner end of the hole I drilled in the > bolt is too small. > Was 400 degrees not hot enough? I still have the second frozen bolt to > experiment on... > Any ideas appreciated. -JWF > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 4c. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "Jeff Saline" salinej1@... jeffsaline Sat May 21, 2011 12:29 pm (PDT) On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:54:02 -0000 "JWF" writes: > Hi all- I may keep that Lexx aftermarket muffler after all. The two > aft drain bolts on the stock muffler are frozen, with the heads > twisted off (I didn't do it, I swear!). I'm still struggling with > the first one. With gallons of Liquid Wrench and 400 degrees of > heat, I've tried a Craftsman "Screw Out", and what I call an "Easy > Out". The tip of the Easy Out is now broken off in the pilot hole I > drilled in the bolt. > Before I broke off the tip of the Easy Out, I was about to > drill both holes out to the next biggest bolt size. Now I can't > drill out the Easy Out: it's too jagged to get the drill started, > and I suspect it's too hard for the drill bit to get through. I > tried driving the Easy Out into the muffler, but the inner end of > the hole I drilled in the bolt is too small. > Was 400 degrees not hot enough? I still have the second frozen > bolt to experiment on... > Any ideas appreciated. -JWF <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> I agree with Alan. Leave them alone. If you start the engine and it leaks a little at the broken easyout get a spot weld put on the hole. Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do it for a couple of bucks. If you're in Rapid City come to my shop and I'll do it for free. I agree you won't have any luck drilling out the broken easy out (which isn't easy now). You might be able to grind it out if you want to do it in place. And if you wanted to go wild you could pull the muffler and take it to a shop with an EDM set up and get it removed that way. Bring a thick wallet too. Doesn't serve any purpose in my opinion to mess with it further. I snapped the head off one of my bolts maybe 6 years ago. I was just gonna see if any carbon would come out as I'm sometimes curious. The head snapped off real easily and I just decided that was fine. Some folks might consider that an improvement based on weight reduction. : ) In 2007 two friends from Cheyenne, WY came to Rapid to pick up two brand new 2006 KLRs that they got for a steal. They loaded them on a trailer and came to my shop. The bikes might have had a mile on the odometer. One of the things we did was remove the bolts and anti-seize them on both bikes. I don't know if either guy has ever pulled a bolt from the muffler but I think they might come out because of the anti-seize. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . __________________________________________________________ Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd812811b3b46e438st01vuc Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 4d. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "RobertWichert" robert@... robertwichert Sat May 21, 2011 12:46 pm (PDT) We can call this the "muffler lightening mod". Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 5/21/2011 12:27 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:54:02 -0000 "JWF" > writes: > > Hi all- I may keep that Lexx aftermarket muffler after all. The two > > aft drain bolts on the stock muffler are frozen, with the heads > > twisted off (I didn't do it, I swear!). I'm still struggling with > > the first one. With gallons of Liquid Wrench and 400 degrees of > > heat, I've tried a Craftsman "Screw Out", and what I call an "Easy > > Out". The tip of the Easy Out is now broken off in the pilot hole I > > drilled in the bolt. > > Before I broke off the tip of the Easy Out, I was about to > > drill both holes out to the next biggest bolt size. Now I can't > > drill out the Easy Out: it's too jagged to get the drill started, > > and I suspect it's too hard for the drill bit to get through. I > > tried driving the Easy Out into the muffler, but the inner end of > > the hole I drilled in the bolt is too small. > > Was 400 degrees not hot enough? I still have the second frozen > > bolt to experiment on... > > Any ideas appreciated. -JWF > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > I agree with Alan. Leave them alone. If you start the engine and it > leaks a little at the broken easyout get a spot weld put on the hole. > Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do it for a couple of bucks. > If you're in Rapid City come to my shop and I'll do it for free. > > I agree you won't have any luck drilling out the broken easy out (which > isn't easy now). You might be able to grind it out if you want to do it > in place. And if you wanted to go wild you could pull the muffler and > take it to a shop with an EDM set up and get it removed that way. Bring > a thick wallet too. Doesn't serve any purpose in my opinion to mess with > it further. > > I snapped the head off one of my bolts maybe 6 years ago. I was just > gonna see if any carbon would come out as I'm sometimes curious. The > head snapped off real easily and I just decided that was fine. Some > folks might consider that an improvement based on weight reduction. : ) > > In 2007 two friends from Cheyenne, WY came to Rapid to pick up two brand > new 2006 KLRs that they got for a steal. They loaded them on a trailer > and came to my shop. The bikes might have had a mile on the odometer. > One of the things we did was remove the bolts and anti-seize them on both > bikes. I don't know if either guy has ever pulled a bolt from the > muffler but I think they might come out because of the anti-seize. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Groupon™ Official Site > 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd812811b3b46e438st01vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 4e. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "Ronald Criswell" roncriswell2@... roncriswell@... Sat May 21, 2011 4:07 pm (PDT) I agree. I stopped worrying about that 40,000 miles ago after I snapped one off. Criswell On May 21, 2011, at 2:27 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:54:02 -0000 "JWF" writes: > > Hi all- I may keep that Lexx aftermarket muffler after all. The two > > aft drain bolts on the stock muffler are frozen, with the heads > > twisted off (I didn't do it, I swear!). I'm still struggling with > > the first one. With gallons of Liquid Wrench and 400 degrees of > > heat, I've tried a Craftsman "Screw Out", and what I call an "Easy > > Out". The tip of the Easy Out is now broken off in the pilot hole I > > drilled in the bolt. > > Before I broke off the tip of the Easy Out, I was about to > > drill both holes out to the next biggest bolt size. Now I can't > > drill out the Easy Out: it's too jagged to get the drill started, > > and I suspect it's too hard for the drill bit to get through. I > > tried driving the Easy Out into the muffler, but the inner end of > > the hole I drilled in the bolt is too small. > > Was 400 degrees not hot enough? I still have the second frozen > > bolt to experiment on... > > Any ideas appreciated. -JWF > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > I agree with Alan. Leave them alone. If you start the engine and it > leaks a little at the broken easyout get a spot weld put on the hole. > Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do it for a couple of bucks. > If you're in Rapid City come to my shop and I'll do it for free. > > I agree you won't have any luck drilling out the broken easy out (which > isn't easy now). You might be able to grind it out if you want to do it > in place. And if you wanted to go wild you could pull the muffler and > take it to a shop with an EDM set up and get it removed that way. Bring > a thick wallet too. Doesn't serve any purpose in my opinion to mess with > it further. > > I snapped the head off one of my bolts maybe 6 years ago. I was just > gonna see if any carbon would come out as I'm sometimes curious. The > head snapped off real easily and I just decided that was fine. Some > folks might consider that an improvement based on weight reduction. : ) > > In 2007 two friends from Cheyenne, WY came to Rapid to pick up two brand > new 2006 KLRs that they got for a steal. They loaded them on a trailer > and came to my shop. The bikes might have had a mile on the odometer. > One of the things we did was remove the bolts and anti-seize them on both > bikes. I don't know if either guy has ever pulled a bolt from the > muffler but I think they might come out because of the anti-seize. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Groupon™ Official Site > 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4dd812811b3b46e438st01vuc > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 4f. Re: Frozen muffler drain bolts (was Am I a Sucker? New Muffler) Posted by: "Jeffrey" nakedwaterskier@... nakedwaterskier Sat May 21, 2011 7:42 pm (PDT) Funny...I broke mine off yesterday. I even had anti-seize on it. Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (6) 5. bike for sale (hurt back again I am 61 years old) Posted by: "Eddie" eddie@... edself1950 Sat May 21, 2011 11:48 am (PDT) Sadly to say I am ready to sell my (ORIGINIAL OWNER) 2002 klr 650 it has just over 10,000 miles .I had the do done at approx 5,000 .Oil changed at approx every 1500 miles, all on road. I have several extras ,spare doohickey kit, highway pegs .choke kit for left side handlebar, oil filters, spare handle bar grips, fresh gel battery, good tires, shims for valves . Call for details Eddie Self >< 205 520 9807 home _ 205 229 7443 cell Birmingham al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (1) 6. Still plenty of trails and places to get lost around wild LA, CA, US Posted by: "Jeffrey" nakedwaterskier@... nakedwaterskier Sat May 21, 2011 8:01 pm (PDT) Little phone GPS weren't much help. http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/halgot1/OTAY/snakeklr003.jpg http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/halgot1/OTAY/snakeklr004.jpg Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (1) 7. Woohoo I finally got the klr put back together. Posted by: "David Bowden" clickrebel@... gotaxi61 Sat May 21, 2011 9:01 pm (PDT) After last summers epic fail at rat dog where I ran off a cliff and cracked the case and sheared off the water pump, the bike is fixed. There is about an inch difference from side to side of the fairing. Its dark now, so im going to go see how off thats makes the headlight but im sure its a lot. The forks dont look bent and the bike tracks straight, so im sure its just the bracket, but it looks straight where I can see it. This week I put on the engine gaurd, skid plate and packrat. I also need to find time to get a heavier spring put on the shock, and a doohicky would be great before I set out on a two week ride on the 25 of june. Got tkd order a ram mount too... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (1) Recent Activity a.. 9 New Members Visit Your Group Give Back Yahoo! for Good Get inspired by a good cause. Y! Toolbar Get it Free! easy 1-click access to your groups. Yahoo! Groups Start a group in 3 easy steps. Connect with others. Need to Reply? Click one of the "Reply" links to respond to a specific message in the Daily Digest. Create New Topic | Visit Your Group on the Web Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptions Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! 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