klr ownersmight find klr kle hybrid interesting

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-453677618 p {margin:0;}Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[Thomas Komjathy]

That's it! I like to take them apart and look at everything in there anyway. If they are higher mileage forks, get a set of bushings for the lower part of the fork, they wear, the upper ones near the seals hardly wear at all. TK [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Sun, January 3, 2010 12:24:53 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" ups.com> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Komjathy wrote:

> > That's it! I like to take them apart and look at everything in there anyway.. If they are higher mileage forks, get a set of bushings for the lower part of the fork, they wear, the upper ones near the seals hardly wear at all. > > TK >

TK-- Do they wear even faster if you run them without much oil in them? Does having the fork oil run down your boot for miles and miles count as lubrication? Yes? No? Thought so. sigh. Just took a look in the Clymers--no real measurement for wear on those lower bushings (yes, the first part is directly related to this part), so how do you know they need to be replaced? My fork teardown in 090825 looked like worn/wearing bushings but did not have anything to say--"Yes, that is shot." Thoughts/comments. Do the bushing help keep the inner tube centered in the outer tube? That is what it looks like to me. Care to comment on the benefits of annodizing the inside of the lower tubes? revmaaatin.

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-2067954836 p {margin:0;}OK.  So I'm not smoking crack. I take the tubes off and clean everything out with carb cleaner.  You wouldn't believe the sludge that builds up in there.  After I'm done I fill it with synthetic ATF instead of fork oil (ATF is the same stuff, and the synth resists breakdown and sludging longer). The M/C lube companies repackage standard ATF as "fork oil" and charge a fortune for it.  Heck, in some of the shop manuals for my older bikes it actually specified ATF. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Komjathy" To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 5:02:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   That's it! I like to take them apart and look at everything in there anyway. If they are higher mileage forks, get a set of bushings for the lower part of the fork, they wear, the upper ones near the seals hardly wear at all. TK [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Sun, January 3, 2010 12:24:53 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" ups.com> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[jeepaviation]

I have recently talked to Rick with Cognent Dynamics Suspension. He stated that the bushings are teflon coated. After the Teflon is worn through then you have metal to metal wearing on each surface. I hope I am not mis-quoting here. I will be removing and overhauling my front forks this week with springs, emulators, seals, wipers, bushings etc this week. I'll post if I see any important stuff.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Komjathy wrote: > > > > That's it! I like to take them apart and look at everything in there anyway.. If they are higher mileage forks, get a set of bushings for the lower part of the fork, they wear, the upper ones near the seals hardly wear at all. > > > > TK > > > TK-- > Do they wear even faster if you run them without much oil in them? > Does having the fork oil run down your boot for miles and miles count as lubrication? > Yes? No? > Thought so. sigh. > > Just took a look in the Clymers--no real measurement for wear on those lower bushings (yes, the first part is directly related to this part), so how do you know they need to be replaced? > My fork teardown in 090825 looked like worn/wearing bushings but did not have anything to say--"Yes, that is shot." > Thoughts/comments. > > Do the bushing help keep the inner tube centered in the outer tube? That is what it looks like to me. > > Care to comment on the benefits of annodizing the inside of the lower tubes? > revmaaatin. >

[SM]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darrel Kuhse wrote:

> > Happy New Year. I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan. I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter). > > Thanks, > Darrel > Oxnard, Calif. >

Hi Darrel, you still have that diesel KLR? Good to see you posting, and happy new year to you, too. Thanks CA Stu A13

[David Farrell]

I changed my KLR's fork seals several years ago and it did not take any special tools.  If I remember right, I just pressurized them slowly until they released.  I used the procecure on Marks KLR650 web site.  I think if you google this it will take you there.  It is something like klr650.marknet if I remember right.

--- On [b]Sun, 1/3/10, SM [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: SM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tools To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 6:53 PM   --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Darrel Kuhse wrote: > > Happy New Year.  I'm a returning lister looking to see who might have a couple KLR tools for rent or loan.  I'm changing out my fork seals on my A12, and need Kawasaki PNs: 57001-183 (handle) & 57001-1057 (adapter). > > Thanks, > Darrel > Oxnard, Calif. > Hi Darrel, you still have that diesel KLR? Good to see you posting, and happy new year to you, too. Thanks CA Stu A13

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:

> > OK. So I'm not smoking crack. > > I take the tubes off and clean everything out with carb cleaner. You wouldn't believe the sludge that builds up in there. After I'm done I fill it with synthetic ATF instead of fork oil (ATF is the same stuff, and the synth resists breakdown and sludging longer). > > The M/C lube companies repackage standard ATF as "fork oil" and charge a fortune for it. Heck, in some of the shop manuals for my older bikes it actually specified ATF. > > -Jeff Khoury >

Hi Jeff, I agree that ATF works well, however-- how do you tune for 5w,10w, 15w? or does the different weights really matter. It has been a couple of years, but as I recall-- I did a forkoil change, uped it to 15 w and it rode like a log wagon. or so the boys tell me. Back to 10w, and it was just fine for my aging, sensitive boys. revmaaatin.

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1756783116 p {margin:0;}Most ATF is 10W, however there are variations, and the weight is listed on the bottle.  I found some 15W lableled "Performance ATF".  I put it in my old Subaru Legacy and it certainly did make it shift harder. I'm happy with the damping of the front end as it is now, so I haven't changed the weight in the KLR. -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 8:56:35 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tools   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > OK. So I'm not smoking crack. > > I take the tubes off and clean everything out with carb cleaner. You wouldn't believe the sludge that builds up in there. After I'm done I fill it with synthetic ATF instead of fork oil (ATF is the same stuff, and the synth resists breakdown and sludging longer). > > The M/C lube companies repackage standard ATF as "fork oil" and charge a fortune for it. Heck, in some of the shop manuals for my older bikes it actually specified ATF. > > -Jeff Khoury > Hi Jeff, I agree that ATF works well, however-- how do you tune for 5w,10w, 15w? or does the different weights really matter. It has been a couple of years, but as I recall-- I did a forkoil change, uped it to 15 w and it rode like a log wagon. or so the boys tell me. Back to 10w, and it was just fine for my aging, sensitive boys. revmaaatin.

[fasteddiecopeman]

Martin, Ever since I started riding dirt (enduros in eastern Canada) around '75, I've used ONLY ATF in my forks, and never worried about viscosity. When I did the forks on my 1200 Bandit (2003 model) their action improved by a quantum leap. I change the KLR's every year or so. Cheers, Ed