klr vereses the yamaha tenere

[Jeffrey]

I still have some. Sold out of oil filters. These pads work just like the red backed EBCs I replaced that cost me over $30 per axle. I don't notice any difference in composition/quality visually or riding. The pads I have left are copper colored back plate. Cheap esp. if you order F+R Jeffrey #3

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@..." wrote: I don't know why your chain apparently fell off unless it was way old, not adjusted properly or you were using a clip type master link. I have gone to a rivet link after loosing two clips. And I buy really top notch chains. > ~~~It's been 10 + years since I installed a final drive chain. I installed one several weeks back onto the 950A I bought 3rd hand in July. The chain on there was definiteloty OEM but at 13.5 k miles, it was not in good shape. Many of the link plates were kinked and stayed that way even though I cleaned it well using diesel fuel and a parts brush...so I bought a new DID X-Ring chain (525 VM2) (and new sprockets) After getting the chain I felt it was a good idea to get the exact master link flare pin head width spec so I called the vendor I bought the chain from. his reply was..."that's a question you should ask the chain manufacturer." so I emailed DID and asked. the agent there gave me the flare pin specs but told me DID would not warranty this chain if I had trouble with it. he pointed out on their website the VM2 is only suggested for using on bikes up to 750cc's and my 950cc machine clearly was beyond that spec. I pressed this rep what could happen to the chainif I went ahead and used it. He felt the VM2 wouldn't break but if I had any problems within the first year, they couldn't/wouldn't warranty the chain. So I asked what chain to use. His reply?, the ZVMX series 525 So I phoned the vendor I bought the DID VM2 chain from, told him what the DID agent said, his reply was "send it back, no problems, we'll have to credit your acct. as we don't stock the ZVMX chain" So I bought the ZVMX 525 chain from another vendor and also bought the RK chain tool from them...the tool that will break chains and rivet them together...I paid $110 for this tool I had the Motion Pro Tool, the one that will do the same thing including pin tools for smaller chains like cam chains but I was having a problem with this MP tool pressing the master link onto the master rivets when installing the VM2 (before I sent it back). Who knows? Maybe I was using it incorrectly but I wanted a heavier duty chain tool so I bought the RK chain tool Believe me when I say this...the RK chain tool is a vey nice tool and will get the job done w/o any drama. FWIW I dremeled the heads of the master link rivet pins before using the RK tool. They claim their tool will break the master link rivet pins w/o grinding the heads off first but it's empirical it's always best to grind the master rivet pin heads first Okay, the same DID rep (via email) also gave me the ZVMX chain flare pin (master link) specs. There is a high and a low spec for this mushroom head. DID does not print the spec on the chain box but if you call or email, they will give it to you. I'm assuming you figuired out I riveted the master link and did not use the clip type of master link attachment. I'll repeat, it's been 10 + years since I last installed a new final drive chain as most of my bikes since that time have been shafties or if chain bikes, I sold them before the final drive chain wore out, hence I didn't have to replace the chain I mention all of this for sevearl reasons...primarily if you are going to install a new chain on any bike you own, it's always best if you use a rivet type of master link (IMO). I've used clip type masters links on motorcycles in the past (been riding and wrenching since 1975 -motorcycles), so if you prefer to use the clip type, so be it...but I think the rivet type is better, more secure=:-) Just wanted to throw this out here as Ron was commenting on clip type master links...and maybe some reading this that have been on the fence using a rivet type of master (for their next chain installation), will move forward using the rivet type of master link instead of the clip type Jake Reddick Fla. "One night, Kaldi's goats failed to come home, and in the morning he found them dancing with abandon and glee near a shiny, dark-leafed shrub with red berries. Kaldi sampled some of the berries and soon he too was dancing in the field alongside his goats." http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04 > > It is funny these days how it seems all bikes are designed for a specific purpose. In olden days there were just good all around bikes (the KLR fits here with me). I would like the Tenere if it were more the weight of my Kawasaki Versy. The Tenere approaches the weight of my 2001 Concours. The Connie is great for the Interstate but a pig around town. It isn't much fun on a gravel soupy mud road (which I did about 15 miles once on a road being worked on). The Versy is a blast to ride and a good 100 pounds lighter than the Tenere. It is also a lot cheaper than the Tenere, the Beemer GS or the Multistrada and I think it will do mostly what those bikes will. I picked up a left over 2009 brand new for $5600 out the door.The big negative as you don't like chains is its chain drive. I don't know why your chain apparently fell off unless it was way old, not adjusted properly or you were using a clip type master link. I have gone to a rivet link after loosing two clips. And I buy really top notch chains. > > Maybe buying dirt bikes or dual sport bikes is a bad future investment if the greenies have their way and get all the dirt / gravel roads closed to us in National or State Parks. Time to join the AMA if you haven't. > > Criswell > On Nov 6, 2010, at 4:06 PM, nhjim10 wrote: > > > Everyone has a very specific use for their bike. It might be commuting, it might be riding in and out to their hunting camp, it might be riding to work 5 days a week, then hitting nasty rough trails on the weekend, it might be trailering to their riding spot, then hammering the wee out of the bike all day and trailering home. > > > > When I bought my KLR I thought I would be doing a lot more trail riding than I ended up doing. I live in northern NH where we have hundreds of miles of graded log roads and several designated ATV riding areas. I also happen to be 6'4" tall and in the neighborhood of 300 lbs. I almost got an XR650R so it would be lighter and more trail capable in the serious rough stuff. As it turned out, I got escorted out of an ATV area with a warning that it was 3 and 4 wheeled vehicles only. I also got stopped on one of the graded log roads (open to vehicles) with a warning that "dirt bikes and ATVs aren't allowed, only passenger vehicles". So essentially I can't ride dirt up here. > > > > As a result, my KLR got a set of hard panniers, tank bag, tall windshield, and for most of it's life so far, street-oriented tires. I used it to commute and take long day trips (up to 700 miles in a day) around New England, and a 5-day ride to Kentucky and back, where I logged 2400+ miles on the highway and a couple days riding trails following my Jeep buddies around. > > > > For me, the Tenere would be excellent. I hate chains, period, and shaft drive would be an excellent upgrade. This feeling was reinforced when my chain grenaded and wrapped itself around the rear hub at 80 mph in Virginia. I spent several hours doing roadside repairs, a full day running around to locate parts, and nearly $1000 in damaged parts that still need replacing (I just sourced a part's bike with everything I need). Weight isn't a factor, and a larger engine would be great to haul myself and my cargo around. I do want a somewhat dirt-oriented bike, because with my long legs a tall bike is comfortable for me, and a bit of suspension travel is needed on our extremely rough northern New England roads. > > > > If I road real trails I would skip the Tenere and get something small and light. If I lived where the roads were smoother, I'd buy a street bike. But its nice to have a bike that you can load up 2 people on comfortably, and still ride the Trans Lab. Highway easily, or hit some mild fire roads, or the thousands of miles of high speed dirt roads in the Southwest. Before I started reviving my KLR, I was looking for a new bike for next spring. On the list were the Tenere and a V-strom 1000. But if I revive the KLR, I'll keep it as a commuter bike/day trip bike, and maybe get an ST1300 for long highway trips. The KLR has no resale anyway, and will end up worth just about what I spend on the big bore kit and parts I recently put in, so selling it isn't an option. > > > > Jim > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@" wrote: > > > > > > As an old dirtbike rider like probably most of you are, I get so tired of when the so called next big adventure comes out (emphasis on big). Isn't every bike an adventure? The only adventure you might experience on the Yamaha Tenere is when if you are so stupid to take it down a deep gravel road, a muddy road, a talcum powder sandy road and have to pick the big turd up by yourself. I get hooked into these things every time a new one comes out (until I read the weight). To me weight is everything on a bike that is supposed to be able to go anywhere. You can get away with a bad suspension, under powered the lighter the bike is. I know, I still went more hard rough places on my 100 cc Hodaka than any other bike I have owned and I have had more powerful better suspentioned dirt bikes. I keep waiting for somebody to make a better KLR or Suzuki DR 650. Something under 300 pounds single cylinder with maybe 50 torquey ponies with a great suspension, 4 gallon or so tank, and a comfortable seat. Nine gallon tank, I don't want, 100 high reving ponies I don't need. I had to laugh when the guy that wrote about the Tenere said he went on a 3 day 600 mile trip. WHOOO HOO! I hate to tell him I have done numerous 500 - 600 - and 700 mile days on my KLR (with a Corbin). I have had it up around 100 mph on full 606 knobbies. The only time the power hasn't been adequate was passing a double logging truck in Mexico at 7000 ft. altitude. If the Japanes might build something like the V twin Aprllia dirt bikes with a 4 gallon tank and a comfy seat I might spring for it, but the Tenre, the Multistrada, the KTM 990 or the Beemer GS's, no thanks. The old air head GS Beemrs would be the closest to getting mild interest but still way too heavy and big. I had to laugh once when I rode to Big Bend once on a very windy cold weekend from Dallas with a friend that has the Big Beemer that is like a a Gold Wing with heated grips, CD player and air suspension who was ready to quit after 300 miles. Woosey. And remeber the guys on the bi! g Beemers on the Long Way Around trip with backup parts and film crew in that deep mud? I had to laugh. I just read a book recently about a guy riding from Mexico to Ushuaia Argentina on a 125 air cooled single cylinder Honda. > > > Smart man it my book. > > > > > > Anybody know if Seafoam makes a bike run leaner? A friend with a Honda Shadow let it sit up too long and I told him to use Seafoam which he did at maybe double what he should. He started it and the pipes got glowing red hot so he shut it off. This bike is a bike he bought at one of those auctions with after market loud pipes and probably isn't jetted correctly. Another friend says Seafoam will make it run lean???? > > > > > > Criswell > > > > > > > >

[Jeff Khoury]

I don't know about pre 08, but I installed EBC pads on my 09 and found them to be downright dangerous. I kept waiting for them to break in and start grabbing but they never did.  I bought a set of OEM pads and by stopping ability instantly returned. I will never buy them again.  -Jeff Khoury

On Nov 12, 2010, at 9:28 PM, "Jeffrey" wrote:

  I still have some. Sold out of oil filters. These pads work just like the red backed EBCs I replaced that cost me over $30 per axle. I don't notice any difference in composition/quality visually or riding. The pads I have left are copper colored back plate. Cheap esp. if you order F+R Jeffrey #3