looking for a radiator

[Jeffrey]

Really not necessary. If you knock out the two shafts within 5 yrs of purchasing a new KLR, clean em up and grease the hell out of them with waterproof/blue grease; you should be good for the next 20 yrs unless you are using your bike as a saltwater submarine. The shafts can be knocked out, cleaned up, greased and replaced within an hour if they aren't corroded/stuck. Even then you can usually zap em with an impact wrench or use a breaker bar to turn them. Once you get em turning, knock em out with something of similar size so you keep things lined up. Jeffrey #3

[Gary Thacker]

I just did mine for the first time last week.  Ok never did the swingarm before and it tool a while more than an hour.  Again next time it will probably be a lot closer.  Not to nit pick here it does take a little time.  I was lucky I have 7500 miles on my 07 and everything came apart fine.  There was water layin in the "upper bolt" and there was a bit of corrosion but not to much.  In a couple of years it probably would have been a problem though.  I think Kawa says to take it apart and lube every 6k.  I could be wrong.  If your concerned about the job being tough don't be.  If you have reasonable mechanical skills and can turn a wrench you will be fine.  I will probably take it apart again in a couple of years to be safe.   Gary Souderton, Pa.

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 09 Nov 2010 21:20:00 -0000 "Jeffrey" writes:

> Really not necessary. If you knock out the two shafts within 5 yrs > of purchasing a new KLR, clean em up and grease the hell out of them > with waterproof/blue grease; you should be good for the next 20 yrs > unless you are using your bike as a saltwater submarine. > > The shafts can be knocked out, cleaned up, greased and replaced > within an hour if they aren't corroded/stuck. Even then you can > usually zap em with an impact wrench or use a breaker bar to turn > them. Once you get em turning, knock em out with something of > similar size so you keep things lined up. > > Jeffrey #3

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> My experience is the bolt gets stuck to the inner race which turns fine in the bearing. Rotating the bolt doesn't loosen it from the race. The only luck I've had is by driving the bolt out of the inner race. If the race/bearing gets damaged in the process it takes a week to get the part and a bit of money too. A bit of lube goes a long way in preventing that issue. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obamas Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4cd9ddeab29ff31ed2m07vuc

[spike55_bmw]

It is no wonder that the lower bolt gets rusty. If you look at that lower frame tube where the bolt passes through, there are two small holes halfway up the tube on the back. Perfect for letting water in but no way to drain out. I can sort of see that you need some way for the water to at least evaporate out if it gets in there but it means that you should periodically pull it apart and clean or the rust will take over. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > Really not necessary. If you knock out the two shafts within 5 yrs of purchasing a new KLR, clean em up and grease the hell out of them with waterproof/blue grease; you should be good for the next 20 yrs unless you are using your bike as a saltwater submarine. > > The shafts can be knocked out, cleaned up, greased and replaced within an hour if they aren't corroded/stuck. Even then you can usually zap em with an impact wrench or use a breaker bar to turn them. Once you get em turning, knock em out with something of similar size so you keep things lined up. > > Jeffrey #3 >

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 02:52:00 -0000 "spike55_bmw" writes:

> It is no wonder that the lower bolt gets rusty. If you look at that > lower frame tube where the bolt passes through, there are two small > holes halfway up the tube on the back. Perfect for letting water in > but no way to drain out. > > I can sort of see that you need some way for the water to at least > evaporate out if it gets in there but it means that you should > periodically pull it apart and clean or the rust will take over. > > Don R100, A6F

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Or pack the recess with grease so there is no place for water to get in. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stocks to Watch Get the alerts before anyone else. Gain as much as 625%! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4cda0c2431b2c335fcm07vuc

[cycletip]

I'm with Rev, Kurt and the rest like minded riders. Older I get, faster I was. @55 the goal is to enjoy the ride long as this body will allow. Best thing about getting older is the wisdom you have to reflect on. Nothing to prove. All about having fun!

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "krgrife" wrote: > > > > Nothing of the sort. It appears that around 20 years is the outer limit for radiator life. My '91 has sprung a leak or two. At age 66 my sworn motorcycling goal is to not fall down and hurt myself any more, takes too long to heal these days. > > Kurt > > > Kurt, > +1 on not havin a crash! > However, I note that you are +10 on me---at 56. > I am cheering for you as well. > > On the 2004, Continental Divide Ride, there were two, well worn men riding the 900/950 KTM. Whatever was the big, orange, fast KTM's. > > How old are you? > One was 69, the other 71. On monster dirt bikes, and from what I observed, not afraid to ride them like a 56y/o. smile. > They were smart enough (= wealthy enough) to use a chase vehicle, and not carry the extra crap that makes d/s more of a challenge when the going gets difficult. > > They commented--"We did not just start riding, we have ridden since kids and never stopped." There is a clue; never stop. Unless of course your radiator is leaking--then stop long enough to fix that! > > revmaaatin. >

[Jeffrey]

No reason to make this procedure more difficult than it is. I just used a floor jack and left the kickstand dn for extra stability. You only have to lift the rear wheel an inch off the ground. I used similar sized shafts to knock out the shafts. It took me less than an hour. I didn't add zerks because it is so easy to just take out the shafts, clean em up, grease the hell out of them and put em back in. I didn't have to touch the foot pegs or the rear brake except I had to unhook the rear brake return spring. Plenty of good waterproof grease and filling any cavities with grease makes it good for 10 yrs even with out zerks. Jeffrey #3