loose rollers on the drive chain

[Jim Tegler]

Howdy Steve, I applaud your work in reassembling the beast. Sounds like Jeff is giving you as much info as I can figure. The following are two sites you can check out if you haven't seen them. http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#maintenance http://www.klr650.marknet.us/ My own issues concern a cam chain that I broke in my own bike. I am wondering if I can run a replacement cam chain through the tunnel on the side of the engine without taking the head off and the engine out of the frame. Anyone know? I've looked at youtube vids where guys manage this with other bikes. Skiing has begun here in the Yukon. Jim A5

[Jeff Saline]

Jim, I haven't done it but don't think it's an issue putting in a cam chain without removing the top end. Open the left side of the engine and remove the rotor etc stuff that is in the way. Don't forget to remove the cam chain tensioner from the back of the cylinder and reset it before reinstalling it. On the top end pull the cams. Then fish the chain up from the bottom. Time the chain to the crank and to the cams on top and put it all back together. I don't think it would take longer than 2 hours if you stayed at it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 13:58:31 -0500 Jim Tegler writes:

>

SNIP

> > My own issues concern a cam chain that I broke in my own bike. I am > wondering if I can run a replacement cam chain through the tunnel on > the side of the engine without taking the head off and the engine > out of the frame. Anyone know? I've looked at youtube vids where > guys manage this with other bikes. > > Skiing has begun here in the Yukon. > > Jim A5

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[nhjim10]

From wrenching on mine, I have to agree. The top end is no issue at all- there is nothing that that would need to come apart. If you were really careful, I don't even think the came have to come out, but its really only 5 minutes of extra work to remove the few bolts holding them. Fish the chain in from the bottom, putting one end over the crank. Let the chain wrap over on itself instead of trying to immediately fish it up through to the head. Hard to describe, but let the chain fold over allowing the links to bend the way they want, instead of sideways. Once its in position on the crank, pull it up through with a string. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Jim, > > I haven't done it but don't think it's an issue putting in a cam chain > without removing the top end. Open the left side of the engine and > remove the rotor etc stuff that is in the way. Don't forget to remove > the cam chain tensioner from the back of the cylinder and reset it before > reinstalling it. On the top end pull the cams. Then fish the chain up > from the bottom. Time the chain to the crank and to the cams on top and > put it all back together. I don't think it would take longer than 2 > hours if you stayed at it. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 13:58:31 -0500 Jim Tegler > writes: > > > SNIP > > > > My own issues concern a cam chain that I broke in my own bike. I am > > wondering if I can run a replacement cam chain through the tunnel on > > the side of the engine without taking the head off and the engine > > out of the frame. Anyone know? I've looked at youtube vids where > > guys manage this with other bikes. > > > > Skiing has begun here in the Yukon. > > > > Jim A5 > ____________________________________________________________ > Become Six Sigma Certified > Villanova Six Sigma Certification 100% Online Program - Free Info. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4cd6ff21c065b21dc8m07vuc >

[hill_buster]

Thanks Rev I was thinking the same thing ie end of the road for the chain. I had kept the original chain, which I had changed out at 30,000km. The original chain had been fed a strict diet of 90W oil. As soon as I get back home I will check it to see if the rollers are still tight for comparison purposes. Brian """Like a lot of questions, if you ask, you probably already know what is 'best'. smile. +1 on you for discovering it at home (I hope it is at home) and NOT on the road somewhere--being consumed by skeeters and such. At face value, I'm thinking you need to feed your bike a diet of new chain and sprockets. shrug. or at the very least, those parts should be resting on your workbench or under your desk (where all new sprockets are stored). Loose rollers in them selves is not fatal, but if they are floppy lose and feathered at the joint, "Houston, we have a problem." If I kept riding it with your described conditions, cough, the outcome is highly predictable. smile. I would also be carrying tie downs with me so somebody can trailer you home if it [soon] goes South on you. I certainly would be hesitant to ride a long distance with what you describe. Many KLR problems are exacerbated because we refused an invitation to perform maintenance. = what happens when that chains finally lets go. Some here will attest/have done horrible damage to their bikes when a chain failed. Sometimes it just spits out the chain, sometimes it wraps itself aroung the c/s. My experience has been fairly beneign; I have discovered/had two: One in the driveway--rollers were falling off the bike as I lubed the chain! The other one 50+ miles from home: rear sprocket teeth failed; but all was not lost. I had plenty of skeeters to keep my company for two hours until the cavalry rescued me. Just a IMO thing--I have gotten the best mileage from OEM sprockets/chains and less mileage from everything else. Whatever you buy to replace it, it all bears watching--the replacement stuff never lasted as long as the OEM (for me). revmaaatin."""