nklr carburator questions 2009 klr
-
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:23 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
-
- Posts: 1727
- Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
BIG SNIPP HI Stu-- 15/43 is a little low for highway use. smile. You live in Nevada? The speed limit here in South Dakota is 75 and the OEM ratio does just fine. But for the sake of discussion: Ask your self the question-- how slow do you want to ride-- with control, with the KLR is its sweet-spot power band-- without having to slip the clutch. and/or How fast do you want to ride-- without exceeding 5K rpm--(a proven data point for oil consumption) for exceedingly long periods = more than 30 minutes. Most bikes blow-by oil when pushed over 5K for any length of time. (We went 2K miles without the sight bubble showing, never exceeding 5K rpm for any length of time. After the oil change, we 600+ miles at 5K+rpm and it was in the middle of the sight glass: added 500cc to one bike. Back to sprockets: Gearing down makes riding easier for us. Say: EASY BUTTON I have said, the cheapest $20 farkle you can add is a 14T sprocket. It especially shines in town! Stop light hooligans rule! cough. We are 47+ miles from the closest stop light. We ride a lot of gravel roads and prairie trails; we have only 4 paved cures in the entire county! So our reasons for selecting gear ratios are different than most, Even now, the bikes are back to OEM ratio while the gravel is 'dry', albeit it is with a 16/46 vs the issued 15/43 for our gravel roads riding. Winter time the gravel is wet, and the OAT is COLD, we go back to tractor-gears; If we decide we are going to use the bikes to move cattle (rarely) we would move the gear ratio to 'tractor' as it is easier to handle, less clutch work and more enjoyable to ride in the tall grass strewn with dishpan boulders and badger holes. I choose sprockets based on keeping the bike in its best power bands at mph that are easiest to handle. The drawbacks: Dropping your 15/43 to a 13/43 will decrease your forward mph 10mph at any given rpm. Why is that important--it is about control with the least amount of effort. That said-- We move sprockets around due to the huge change in terrain we can encounter here. The alternative: Some 'master' slipping the clutch, blah, blah, blah, and others master changing the gearing for the occasion. smile. When do we change: If we are riding in more bullish-two tracks, jeep trails, or dozer trails made of golf ball to softball chucks of rocks in the the Black Hills we gear down so that the throttle response and rpm is above 2500/3000 even when we are puttering along picking the best line. (Perhaps some of that is solved with drilling the slide. shrug) These desireable rpms are most appreciated in 1st gear: We now have a true tractor gear if needed. Our fellow poster Jeff Saline leaves his KLR in the tractor gears of 14/46 as he LIVES in the Black Hills--as we ingress 225 miles and then swap to the tractor gears when we will be there for a few days of riding. the bad news, with a 13/43 or 14/46, you will be seeing 60mph/gps at 5K rpms, which is 'unacceptable to some folks. shrug. or 70mph at 6Krpm--and your pig will squeal for mas-oil. A 15/43 at 5Krpm will give you about 70mph/gps (75mph-i). If you are really-really-good at slipping the clutch, standing on the pegs, and picking through grapefruit sized boulders, shrug. have at it. My pigs are more fun to ride when the gearing is lower and the incidence of dirt naps is lower. My 14 year old was really surprise how much he like the lower gearing in washboard, rutted gravel and prairie trails. Recently Jeff and I stopped in a small town and the woman looked up, "Where did you come from?" We pointed over our shoulder, to the broken dozer trail, "You come over the Piedmont trail on a motorcycle?" Yeah, only powder footed once; we got TRACTOR Gears. all that said, the KLR really needs a 6th gear. It is not going to happen. so. If you want a tractor gear, you do it with sprockets. shrug. If you don't need a tractor gear--than live with a fairly decent selection at the 15/43. A decent alternative--is the 14/43. You lose ~5mph at 5Krpm, but you get a little more tractor gear for you 1st gear fire roads. The worse that happens is that you use a little oil if you push the bike to 70-80mph with the 14/43. But, YOU must pay attention because that oil gets away pretty fast. Some poor writer posted here that he had to add 2Q at one time. YIKES! Many sing the praises of the 16/43T sprocket. head-shake. It gives away to much in 1st gear for where I ride. Remind me NOT to buy his used bike.... Like all things KiLeRista--the KLR is a great pallet; modify it do what you want to do the mostest and the bestest. It just might be done with a single $20 sprocket. HTH. revmaaatin.> > > Rev i know this subject has been flogged to death! but could you explain your sprocket teeth choice's,
-
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:54 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
-
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:08 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
On Aug 31, 2010, at 11:32 PM, revmaaatin wrote: --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, stuart sullivan wrote: > > > Rev i know this subject has been flogged to death! but could you explain your sprocket teeth choice's, BIG SNIPP HI Stu-- 15/43 is a little low for highway use. smile. You live in Nevada? The speed limit here in South Dakota is 75 and the OEM ratio does just fine. But for the sake of discussion: Ask your self the question-- how slow do you want to ride-- with control, with the KLR is its sweet-spot power band-- without having to slip the clutch. and/or How fast do you want to ride-- without exceeding 5K rpm--(a proven data point for oil consumption) for exceedingly long periods = more than 30 minutes. Most bikes blow-by oil when pushed over 5K for any length of time. (We went 2K miles without the sight bubble showing, never exceeding 5K rpm for any length of time. After the oil change, we 600+ miles at 5K+rpm and it was in the middle of the sight glass: added 500cc to one bike. Back to sprockets: Gearing down makes riding easier for us. Say: EASY BUTTON I have said, the cheapest $20 farkle you can add is a 14T sprocket. It especially shines in town! Stop light hooligans rule! cough. We are 47+ miles from the closest stop light. We ride a lot of gravel roads and prairie trails; we have only 4 paved cures in the entire county! So our reasons for selecting gear ratios are different than most, Even now, the bikes are back to OEM ratio while the gravel is 'dry', albeit it is with a 16/46 vs the issued 15/43 for our gravel roads riding. Winter time the gravel is wet, and the OAT is COLD, we go back to tractor-gears; If we decide we are going to use the bikes to move cattle (rarely) we would move the gear ratio to 'tractor' as it is easier to handle, less clutch work and more enjoyable to ride in the tall grass strewn with dishpan boulders and badger holes. I choose sprockets based on keeping the bike in its best power bands at mph that are easiest to handle. The drawbacks: Dropping your 15/43 to a 13/43 will decrease your forward mph 10mph at any given rpm. Why is that important--it is about control with the least amount of effort. That said-- We move sprockets around due to the huge change in terrain we can encounter here. The alternative: Some 'master' slipping the clutch, blah, blah, blah, and others master changing the gearing for the occasion. smile. When do we change: If we are riding in more bullish-two tracks, jeep trails, or dozer trails made of golf ball to softball chucks of rocks in the the Black Hills we gear down so that the throttle response and rpm is above 2500/3000 even when we are puttering along picking the best line. (Perhaps some of that is solved with drilling the slide. shrug) These desireable rpms are most appreciated in 1st gear: We now have a true tractor gear if needed. Our fellow poster Jeff Saline leaves his KLR in the tractor gears of 14/46 as he LIVES in the Black Hills--as we ingress 225 miles and then swap to the tractor gears when we will be there for a few days of riding. the bad news, with a 13/43 or 14/46, you will be seeing 60mph/gps at 5K rpms, which is 'unacceptable to some folks. shrug. or 70mph at 6Krpm--and your pig will squeal for mas-oil. A 15/43 at 5Krpm will give you about 70mph/gps (75mph-i). If you are really-really-good at slipping the clutch, standing on the pegs, and picking through grapefruit sized boulders, shrug. have at it. My pigs are more fun to ride when the gearing is lower and the incidence of dirt naps is lower. My 14 year old was really surprise how much he like the lower gearing in washboard, rutted gravel and prairie trails. Recently Jeff and I stopped in a small town and the woman looked up, "Where did you come from?" We pointed over our shoulder, to the broken dozer trail, "You come over the Piedmont trail on a motorcycle?" Yeah, only powder footed once; we got TRACTOR Gears. all that said, the KLR really needs a 6th gear. It is not going to happen. so. If you want a tractor gear, you do it with sprockets. shrug. If you don't need a tractor gear--than live with a fairly decent selection at the 15/43. A decent alternative--is the 14/43. You lose ~5mph at 5Krpm, but you get a little more tractor gear for you 1st gear fire roads. The worse that happens is that you use a little oil if you push the bike to 70-80mph with the 14/43. But, YOU must pay attention because that oil gets away pretty fast. Some poor writer posted here that he had to add 2Q at one time. YIKES! Many sing the praises of the 16/43T sprocket. head-shake. It gives away to much in 1st gear for where I ride. Remind me NOT to buy his used bike.... Like all things KiLeRista--the KLR is a great pallet; modify it do what you want to do the mostest and the bestest. It just might be done with a single $20 sprocket. HTH. revmaaatin.
-
- Posts: 1727
- Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@..." wrote: > > I forget....... what is the stock-gearing rev? I put a 13 front on mine last year in Moab and me and my buddies decide to ride over to Gateway Col up over the La Sals on dirt going over and on paved coming back. I had to remind them occasionally that 70 mph was about it for me. Interestingly, mine I run for hours at 5200 rpm even in TX heat and don 't notice any oil use using Eldon Carl's fill routine when I change it. The only time I have had oil use problems is going down to Mexico and also running it hard in dusty situations with a K&N filter. It started smoking and using oil after that MX trip. I had a guy do a top end job for me (I've never done a 4 stroke engine) and no problems since then. That was 25,000 miles ago. I also got rid of the K&N and went to a Uni filter. A friend who did the 685 kit thinking the kit might solve his oil use problems....but it hasn't. He went on a TX to Canada trip recently and says it was using oil pretty good. I imagine they were riding above 5 grand a lot. I knew another guy who put a 17 inch tire in front and a fat tire on back (sport-bike type tires with a wider rim on the rear) and was taking it out to track day playing with sport bikes. He asked me if I thought revving to 8 grand was bad for it. I said probably.....but it still is running. He had fun passing sport bikes in corners but they blew him away on the straights. > > Criswell > On Aug 31, 2010, at 11:32 PM, revmaaatin wrote: > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, stuart sullivan wrote: > > > > > > > > > Rev i know this subject has been flogged to death! but could you explain your sprocket teeth choice's, > > > > BIG SNIPP > > > > HI Stu-- > > 15/43 is a little low for highway use. smile. > > You live in Nevada? The speed limit here in South Dakota is 75 and the OEM ratio does just fine. > > > > But for the sake of discussion: > > Ask your self the question-- > > how slow do you want to ride-- > > with control, > > with the KLR is its sweet-spot power band-- > > without having to slip the clutch. > > > > and/or > > > > How fast do you want to ride-- > > without exceeding 5K rpm--(a proven data point for oil consumption) > > for exceedingly long periods = more than 30 minutes. > > > > Most bikes blow-by oil when pushed over 5K for any length of time. > > (We went 2K miles without the sight bubble showing, never exceeding 5K rpm for any length of time. After the oil change, we 600+ miles at 5K+rpm and it was in the middle of the sight glass: added 500cc to one bike. > > > > Back to sprockets: > > Gearing down makes riding easier for us. > > Say: EASY BUTTON > > I have said, the cheapest $20 farkle you can add is a 14T sprocket. > > It especially shines in town! Stop light hooligans rule! > > cough. > > We are 47+ miles from the closest stop light. > > > > We ride a lot of gravel roads and prairie trails; we have only 4 paved cures in the entire county! So our reasons for selecting gear ratios are different than most, > > Even now, the bikes are back to OEM ratio while the gravel is 'dry', albeit it is with a 16/46 vs the issued 15/43 for our gravel roads riding. Winter time the gravel is wet, and the OAT is COLD, we go back to tractor-gears; If we decide we are going to use the bikes to move cattle (rarely) we would move the gear ratio to 'tractor' as it is easier to handle, less clutch work and more enjoyable to ride in the tall grass strewn with dishpan boulders and badger holes. > > I choose sprockets based on keeping the bike in its best power bands at mph that are easiest to handle. > > > > The drawbacks: > > Dropping your 15/43 to a 13/43 will decrease your forward mph 10mph at any given rpm. > > Why is that important--it is about control with the least amount of effort. > > That said-- > > We move sprockets around due to the huge change in terrain we can encounter here. The alternative: Some 'master' slipping the clutch, blah, blah, blah, and others master changing the gearing for the occasion. smile. > > > > When do we change: > > If we are riding in more bullish-two tracks, jeep trails, or dozer trails made of golf ball to softball chucks of rocks in the the Black Hills we gear down so that the throttle response and rpm is above 2500/3000 even when we are puttering along picking the best line. (Perhaps some of that is solved with drilling the slide. shrug) > > These desireable rpms are most appreciated in 1st gear: We now have a true tractor gear if needed. > > Our fellow poster Jeff Saline leaves his KLR in the tractor gears of 14/46 as he LIVES in the Black Hills--as we ingress 225 miles and then swap to the tractor gears when we will be there for a few days of riding. > > > > the bad news, with a 13/43 or 14/46, you will be seeing 60mph/gps at 5K rpms, which is 'unacceptable to some folks. shrug. > > or 70mph at 6Krpm--and your pig will squeal for mas-oil. > > > > A 15/43 at 5Krpm will give you about 70mph/gps (75mph-i). > > > > If you are really-really-good at slipping the clutch, standing on the pegs, and picking through grapefruit sized boulders, shrug. have at it. My pigs are more fun to ride when the gearing is lower and the incidence of dirt naps is lower. My 14 year old was really surprise how much he like the lower gearing in washboard, rutted gravel and prairie trails. > > > > Recently Jeff and I stopped in a small town and the woman looked up, "Where did you come from?" > > We pointed over our shoulder, to the broken dozer trail, > > "You come over the Piedmont trail on a motorcycle?" > > Yeah, only powder footed once; we got TRACTOR Gears. > > > > all that said, the KLR really needs a 6th gear. > > It is not going to happen. > > so. > > If you want a tractor gear, you do it with sprockets. shrug. If you don't need a tractor gear--than live with a fairly decent selection at the 15/43. > > > > A decent alternative--is the 14/43. You lose ~5mph at 5Krpm, but you get a little more tractor gear for you 1st gear fire roads. The worse that happens is that you use a little oil if you push the bike to 70-80mph with the 14/43. But, YOU must pay attention because that oil gets away pretty fast. Some poor writer posted here that he had to add 2Q at one time. YIKES! > > > > Many sing the praises of the 16/43T sprocket. head-shake. > > It gives away to much in 1st gear for where I ride. > > > > Remind me NOT to buy his used bike.... > > > > Like all things KiLeRista--the KLR is a great pallet; modify it do what you want to do the mostest and the bestest. It just might be done with a single $20 sprocket. > > > > HTH. > > revmaaatin. > > > > >
-
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am
rev,sprocket choice's
-
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:08 pm
rev,sprocket choice's
On Sep 1, 2010, at 10:14 PM, Jeffrey wrote: I guess the engineers/techies hate my 16/43 favorite setup. The stock( and currently on my bike)15/43 is good for the dirt. But, coming back from tech day in San Diego to LA on the fwy, I sure missed 16/43. So, the 16/43 requires more clutch on the dirt; the KLR has plenty of torque. The major complaint about 16/43 that I agree with is that dn very steep dirt hills, you don't get enough engine/compression braking. Keeping the revs up high to maintain 80+ on the fwy with 15/43 cannot be good for a big heavy piston (inertia) 1 cylinder thumper. For those that ride fwy/open hwy and dirt, 16/43 makes sense unless you drive like grandma. Jeffry 3
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:40 am
rev,sprocket choice's
On Sep 1, 2010, at 10:14 PM, Jeffrey wrote:I guess the engineers/techies hate my 16/43 favorite setup. The stock( and currently on my bike)15/43 is good for the dirt. But, coming back from tech day in San Diego to LA on the fwy, I sure missed 16/43. So, the 16/43 requires more clutch on the dirt; the KLR has plenty of torque. The major complaint about 16/43 that I agree with is that dn very steep dirt hills, you don't get enough engine/compression braking. Keeping the revs up high to maintain 80+ on the fwy with 15/43 cannot be good for a big heavy piston (inertia) 1 cylinder thumper. For those that ride fwy/open hwy and dirt, 16/43 makes sense unless you drive like grandma. Jeffry 3
-
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am
rev,sprocket choice's
-
- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am
rev,sprocket choice's
I ride mine all the time at 80 indicated at about 5200 rpm with stock gearing. 53,000 miles with no problems. I have heard the 16 gives you problems against a strong headwind and up steep hills so I haven't bothered. Plus you have to make the clutch work too much in dirt stuff. Criswell
On Sep 1, 2010, at 10:14 PM, Jeffrey wrote:I guess the engineers/techies hate my 16/43 favorite setup. The stock( and currently on my bike)15/43 is good for the dirt. But, coming back from tech day in San Diego to LA on the fwy, I sure missed 16/43. So, the 16/43 requires more clutch on the dirt; the KLR has plenty of torque. The major complaint about 16/43 that I agree with is that dn very steep dirt hills, you don't get enough engine/compression braking. Keeping the revs up high to maintain 80+ on the fwy with 15/43 cannot be good for a big heavy piston (inertia) 1 cylinder thumper. For those that ride fwy/open hwy and dirt, 16/43 makes sense unless you drive like grandma. Jeffry 3
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 48 guests