travel lock - cable - chain question

[idaho_mtgoat]

Well after 8500 smiles I have my first rapid air down of a tire. My rear tire acquired a sheet rock screw and went flat fast with the resultant distruction of the tube. I was close to home so just trailered it home and set about to change the tire with the tools I carry on-board (first flat repair). I made it almost all the way through. I am down to the last 12" to 14" of the tire to coax over the rim and I am stymied. Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. Additionally which side do most "lay in the dirt" when changing a rear tire? I opted for the sprocket side. BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? Thanks Pat

[Bob K]

Try dishwashing liquid and be sure the tire is pushed down as far as it will go on the opposite side into the wheel center. Standing it up on end usually helps then push down.   Bob 09     To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: patncindy@... Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 10:47:38 +0000 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   Well after 8500 smiles I have my first rapid air down of a tire. My rear tire acquired a sheet rock screw and went flat fast with the resultant distruction of the tube. I was close to home so just trailered it home and set about to change the tire with the tools I carry on-board (first flat repair). I made it almost all the way through. I am down to the last 12" to 14" of the tire to coax over the rim and I am stymied. Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. Additionally which side do most "lay in the dirt" when changing a rear tire? I opted for the sprocket side. BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? 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[E Hines]

Soap.  A small bottle of dishing washing soap and the tire will go on easier.  Go to home depot and get a lid from a 3 to 5 bucket and lay the tire on it or get a small piece of tarp.  I try to not let the rim lay on the dirt.  Grease attracts the dirt and sand and than the bearings suffer. [b]From:[/b] idaho_mtgoat [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Mon, August 23, 2010 5:47:38 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   Well after 8500 smiles I have my first rapid air down of a tire. My rear tire acquired a sheet rock screw and went flat fast with the resultant distruction of the tube. I was close to home so just trailered it home and set about to change the tire with the tools I carry on-board (first flat repair). I made it almost all the way through. I am down to the last 12" to 14" of the tire to coax over the rim and I am stymied. Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. Additionally which side do most "lay in the dirt" when changing a rear tire? I opted for the sprocket side. BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? Thanks Pat

[transalp 1]

My mechanic doesn't use pliers to remove cotter pins. He uses diagonal cutters. 1st, he snips the bent ends off. Then he grabs the head of the pin with the cutters - careful not to cut on through it and then levers it out of the hole sort of like a hammer pulling a nail. The pin comes right out. Of course, he has a ready supply of new cotter pins always on hand, too. Me? I've got a hitch pin vs a cotter pin. It stays in place but removes easily when I need it. eddie

> [Original Message] > > From: idaho_mtgoat > (snip) > > BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the

valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)?

> > > > Thanks > > Pat > > > > > >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1937972278 p {margin:0;}When seating a tire, make sure the bead on the opposite side is in the groove in the middle of the rim.  Use a lubricant (Windex, Simple Green, Soapy Water, etc).  When seating the last bit of the bead, I usually put my knees at 4:30 and 7:30 on the wheel and work the last bit of the bead at high noon. I usually remove the sprocket by simply pulling it out, and lay it on that side on an old towel or something. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "idaho_mtgoat" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 3:47:38 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   Well after 8500 smiles I have my first rapid air down of a tire. My rear tire acquired a sheet rock screw and went flat fast with the resultant distruction of the tube. I was close to home so just trailered it home and set about to change the tire with the tools I carry on-board (first flat repair). I made it almost all the way through. I am down to the last 12" to 14" of the tire to coax over the rim and I am stymied. Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. Additionally which side do most "lay in the dirt" when changing a rear tire? I opted for the sprocket side. BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? Thanks Pat

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-518458937 p {margin:0;}I use a hitch pin as well.  Saves tons of time and effort. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "transalp 1" To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 7:43:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   My mechanic doesn't use pliers to remove cotter pins. He uses diagonal cutters. 1st, he snips the bent ends off. Then he grabs the head of the pin with the cutters - careful not to cut on through it and then levers it out of the hole sort of like a hammer pulling a nail. The pin comes right out. Of course, he has a ready supply of new cotter pins always on hand, too. Me? I've got a hitch pin vs a cotter pin. It stays in place but removes easily when I need it. eddie > [Original Message] > > From: idaho_mtgoat > (snip) > > BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? > > > > Thanks > > Pat > > > > > >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Pat,

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "idaho_mtgoat" wrote: > Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. {Ensure that the opposite part of the tire is DOWN into the well, and use LOTS of lube! (I've even installed tires lubing them with WD40, and that's no lie!!!)} > > BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? {If you buy the locking nuts for the axles (from Fred???) you can forget about cotter-pins. I push the stem up thru the hole and put the nut on a couple of threads to hold it out - never needed the 'fish' tool. Then, once the tube is fully inflated, turn the nut UP to 'lock' the valve cap rather than the rim as from the factory. That way, IF your tire moves on the rim you'll see the stem 'cocked' and can re-configure the tire BEFORE the stem area rips out!} > Thanks > Pat You're welcome! Cheers, Ed

[Eric J Foster]

Am I the only one who uses WD40 as a lube for working tires? I carry one of those tiny cans you can find occasionally and use that on the trail. WD is superior to soap because it is such a worthless lube that it dries up upon assembly, vs soap that is slick again at the next mudhole. It has helped cures rim spin on my XR650R permanently. Get rid of the cotters and other stuff and go with a locknut. I carry small vise grips to stop bead "walk" when assembling. They also make a tool to do this. Chances are if you can't get the last of the bead to come over is that you aren't pushing the tire into the center of the wheel. You gotta start in the right place so the rimlock doesn't prevent this from happening. E

[Bob K]

WD-40 makes rubber swell.....that's the opposit of what he wants.   Bob 09     To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: TheHaymaker@... Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:06:32 -0400 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   Am I the only one who uses WD40 as a lube for working tires? I carry one of those tiny cans you can find occasionally and use that on the trail. WD is superior to soap because it is such a worthless lube that it dries up upon assembly, vs soap that is slick again at the next mudhole. It has helped cures rim spin on my XR650R permanently. Get rid of the cotters and other stuff and go with a locknut. I carry small vise grips to stop bead "walk" when assembling. They also make a tool to do this. Chances are if you can't get the last of the bead to come over is that you aren't pushing the tire into the center of the wheel. You gotta start in the right place so the rimlock doesn't prevent this from happening. 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[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-439686195 p {margin:0;}I use Windex on the road (I carry a 6oz bottle for cleaning mirrors and face shields), and Simple Green at home.  Simple green is some slick stuff. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob K" To: thehaymaker@..., "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 1:26:34 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   WD-40 makes rubber swell.....that's the opposit of what he wants.   Bob 09     To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: TheHaymaker@... Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:06:32 -0400 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   Am I the only one who uses WD40 as a lube for working tires? I carry one of those tiny cans you can find occasionally and use that on the trail. WD is superior to soap because it is such a worthless lube that it dries up upon assembly, vs soap that is slick again at the next mudhole. It has helped cures rim spin on my XR650R permanently. Get rid of the cotters and other stuff and go with a locknut. I carry small vise grips to stop bead "walk" when assembling. They also make a tool to do this. Chances are if you can't get the last of the bead to come over is that you aren't pushing the tire into the center of the wheel. You gotta start in the right place so the rimlock doesn't prevent this from happening. E