lost foot peg fix.

[sreichmansr@verizon.net]

My last post about the Anakees had an error. I listed 1500k which was incorrect. Should have read 1500 Miles so far... For some reason my mobile will not allow me to post direct to the topic also. A little frustrating. Anyhow my tire recommendation was in reply to fasteddiecopeman's request for tire feedback. Anakees would be my recommendation. Regards, Steve / HawkeSHR Blue '08 E model Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

[transalp 1]

I ran a set of Anakees on my former DL1000. Weight and that relatively hot rod of an engine + my riding habits made the rear tire last around 8k miles, iirc. But, the front had about 13,000 miles on it when I changed tires for a Metzeler set F&R. The Michelin front still had safe tread. I was amazed! eddie

> [Original Message] > From: > To: No Reply notify-dg-DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>;

DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>

> Date: 6/7/2010 9:22:42 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Digest Number 11360 > > My last post about the Anakees had an error. I listed 1500k which was

incorrect. Should have read 1500 Miles so far...

> > For some reason my mobile will not allow me to post direct to the topic

also. A little frustrating.

> > Anyhow my tire recommendation was in reply to fasteddiecopeman's request

for tire feedback. Anakees would be my recommendation.

> > Regards, > Steve / HawkeSHR > Blue '08 E model >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Martin, I used an air-cutoff wheel to open the box, then a bench grinder to remove the CRAPPY nuts. Next I attached the piece I'd cut off to the footpegs (AFTER I drilled them out to 10mm) with bolts and 10mm grade 8+ nuts. This was to ensure the nuts would be the proper distance apart. Then had the nuts fully welded in, removed the 'pegs and had the box piece fully welded back to the frame (be SURE to disconnect the battery, just in case...). Once you're at this point, you can either use 10mm bolts (I measured the depth with a dial caliper first to see what was the MAX length available) which will have to be "indexed" so the heads don't interfere when you put the socket on to tighten, OR (what I recommend) get 2 allen-head socket capscrews of the appropriate length, and tighten them in. MINE have NEVER loosened since the mod, and can be tightened considerably MORE than the stock 12.5 pound-feet. And NO problem using with a 'stand.... Yes - I have a lowered center stand which is the MAJOR reason I had to do the mod. (When I'd hit a good 'woop' the bike would bottom onto the center stand, overloading those 4 bolts). My KLR is back to original height now, but I kept the short center stand and carry a piece of plywood to put under the 'stand when I need to use it. ANYONE WANT TO BUY A LOWERED CENTER STAND WITH A NICE WELDED ON FOOT TO 'EXTEND' IT??? Cheers, Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > Ed, > Did you use a cutoff wheel or recip saw (sic: sawzall) to open the box? > > Do you use a center stand? > One of the other foot peg repairs that I have read/pictures etal precludes using a center stand after the repair as it widens the overall foot peg mounting points...at least without some serious modifications to the center stand attachment points. > > revmaaatin. >