anyone have or used this bead popping tool?

[fasteddiecopeman]

Darren, "revmatin" fixed a leak with JB Weld. Ed

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote:

> > I would advise against brazing/welding on any gas tank that has gasoline residue. Gasoline ignited in an enclosure can be very explosive. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com >

ah, piddle- live a little at the edge. smile. Fred is 100% correct--no residue can be present! We would all agree--it is not to be done by any redneck Hoosier (hey, watch this) but if you have it 'hired' done, it will be spendy. Prep time will be 10X+ longer than the weld time! I would ask for a quote before turning it over to them and then be surprised afterwards.... DISCLAIMER: I have never welded a tank, but have punctured many in farm applications and was present/helped to remove the gasoline residue and was onsite/present/involved when they were welded. Some shops will not weld a gas tank; others will say, "of course". Here are some of the things I have seen/been present when a gas tank repair occurred = when blacksmith shops were common in every little town (before the entrenchment of the disposable society). Of course: remove the gas! Shake/drain as much gas out of the tank as possible; IMPORTANT: let it sit in the sunshine to evaporate the gasoline residue. Then-- -drop some dry ice in the tank to displace any additional fumes, NOTE: if will not displace liquid gas! so as I remember (hey, watch this), the dry ice is in the bottom so the gasoline fumes will 'rise' out the top, etc) if the gasoline-fluid is fully removed. Time wise, it happens very fast. I watched them drop in the dry ice and almost immediately go to welding. shrug. Others did this: -route the exhaust from your auto directly into the tank = 30 minutes.(min. 10 minutes is what most will do) results = same as dry ice plus the added 'benefit' of the water vapor....(no, the water vapor is NOT a benefit, but a side effect you need to know about.) Another welder-- -filled it with water, cough. = Welded with water in the tank. Another filled with water, drained the water THEN cleansed with auto exhaust/dry ice or -JB Quick (as previously discussed) NOTE LIQUID STEEL, etc, Did not work well where rocks were bouncing against the automobile fuel tanks that would drag on gravel roads, etc. -Let 'Mikey' do it.... If you use any method that includes water/engine exhaust; You will want to 'HEAT' treat your tank for residual water afterwards...others will need to comment on the effects of HEAT on the KLR performance etc. Those with extensive welding experience should comment as well-- Note: there is a degree of risk involved, but can be minimized through careful preparation. For the faint of heart; JBQuick (following J Koury's) full instructions are 4.0 and will most likey exceed your use/life expectancy of the bike. of course, all of this advice/experience is 'at-your-own-risk' etal. revmaaatin.

[mark ward]

[Michael Martin]

Well, I once soldered a car gas tank which had a small puncture.   I ran a water hose into the tank for an hour or so, with the water escaping out the hole in the top of the tank where the fuel tank sender was installed.  It was possible to see the color on the top of the water where the gasoline floated on it.  When the coloration disappeared, I was assured the gasoline was gone.  I emptied the tank of all the water and put it out in the sun for the afternoon to dry it all out. I used a propane torch to solder the tank, and it did not go "BOOM!" YMMV [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2 ... NtolXg--~E[/img][img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2 ... NtolXg--~E[/img][img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2 ... NtolXg--~E[/img], Mike Martin, Louisville, KY [b]From:[/b] mark ward [b]To:[/b] revmaaatin ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, May 8, 2010 8:10:12 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Leaking Gas Tank   "Car exhaust" I read a few auto / welding repair sights saying MITH! those do did it with out trouble, were lucky! They say there are still SOME fumes in there and when mixed with Oxygin and flames/HEAT. ......BOOM. (google, welding gas tanks.) Just a little reading?

[guymanbro]

> > I would advise against brazing/welding on any gas tank that has gasoline residue. Gasoline ignited in an enclosure can be very explosive. > >

> > ah, piddle- > live a little at the edge. smile.

> Fred is 100% correct--no residue can be present! > We would all agree--it is not to be done by any redneck

If I recall correctly, the proper redneck approach which Mark V and I used when my tank sprung a leak at his house is the following: 1) Remove the gas cap assembly entirely. 2) Turn the tank upside down and drain as much of the gas, or most of it at least, into a container. 3) Place the gas tank in the middle of the dirt yard. 4) Ignite the fumes with a well placed burning object (preferable longer than a match). 5) Wait for geyser of flames to die down. 6) Begin welding. Be advised that I advise against this method and this line proves I told you so - but it was fun! da Vermonster

[Jud]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "guymanbro" wrote:

> > > > > I would advise against brazing/welding on any gas tank that has gasoline residue. Gasoline ignited in an enclosure can be very explosive. > > > > > > > > ah, piddle- > > live a little at the edge. smile. > > > Fred is 100% correct--no residue can be present! > > We would all agree--it is not to be done by any redneck > > If I recall correctly, the proper redneck approach which Mark V and I used when my tank sprung a leak at his house is the following: > > 1) Remove the gas cap assembly entirely. > 2) Turn the tank upside down and drain as much of the gas, or most of it at least, into a container. > 3) Place the gas tank in the middle of the dirt yard. > 4) Ignite the fumes with a well placed burning object (preferable longer than a match). > 5) Wait for geyser of flames to die down. > 6) Begin welding. > > Be advised that I advise against this method and this line proves I told you so - but it was fun! > > da Vermonster >

Isn't there a method of seating the bead of a tire by throwing a lit match into the gas tank? Or something?

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: snip snip > Isn't there a method of seating the bead of a tire by throwing a lit match into the gas tank? Or something? Hahaha Laugh all ya want But I use this method to seating beads on small tubeless wheels ( Handtrucks, ATV Reg Wagon ) Think it was starting fluid I used thou... Careful.. wheel can leave the ground upon ignition... Just trust me ok. Dooden A15 Green Ape Still cannot be a shop teacher.. have all digits on both hands.

[RobertWichert]

You said:  Isn't there a method of seating the bead of a tire by throwing a lit match into the gas tank? Or something? YES! YES! YES! I have watched this done. It's magic! Pour a little gas into the tire, throw in a match, and it seats on the rim like it was hit by a sorcerer's spell. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 5/9/2010 3:42 PM, Jud wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "guymanbro" wrote: > > > > > I would advise against brazing/welding on any gas tank that has gasoline residue. Gasoline ignited in an enclosure can be very explosive. > > > > > > > > ah, piddle- > > live a little at the edge. smile. > > > Fred is 100% correct--no residue can be present! > > We would all agree--it is not to be done by any redneck > > If I recall correctly, the proper redneck approach which Mark V and I used when my tank sprung a leak at his house is the following: > > 1) Remove the gas cap assembly entirely. > 2) Turn the tank upside down and drain as much of the gas, or most of it at least, into a container. > 3) Place the gas tank in the middle of the dirt yard. > 4) Ignite the fumes with a well placed burning object (preferable longer than a match). > 5) Wait for geyser of flames to die down. > 6) Begin welding. > > Be advised that I advise against this method and this line proves I told you so - but it was fun! > > da Vermonster > Isn't there a method of seating the bead of a tire by throwing a lit match into the gas tank? Or something?

[Jud]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote:

> > You said: Isn't there a method of seating the bead of a tire by > throwing a lit match into the gas tank? Or something? > > YES! YES! YES! > > I have watched this done. It's magic! Pour a little gas into the tire, throw in a match, and it seats on the rim like it was hit by a sorcerer's spell. > >

Ah, yes: "Hold my beer and watch this..." Or maybe I was just thinking of popping out that dent in the tank from trying to ride on a flat tire.

[Kevin Powers]

I've got two tires that need changing this evening if anyone wants to practice their technique. Anyone? Bueller.... -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 10:05 AM, Jud wrote: --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "sh8knj8kster" wrote: > > > > ~~~~I want to thank everyone that replied to this thread, thanks for all of the comments, tips and suggestions. I think Judd said it best w/his suggestion to learn how to use a tire iron to pop the tire bead from the rim. I've been changing my own motorcycle tires for 35 years and have never learned this technique. For the longest time I used the heels of my boots. About 16 years ago I bought a leverage type of tire bead breaker that looks like a bear trap from JC Whitney, at the time they were having a sale and I got it for a good price so I bought one. I see that Harbor Freight offers this same tool at a very righteous price > > > http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html > > > ...but it's best left for bead breaking duties in the garage. > > > I got to nosing around and found this video from a Dunlop rep > > > http://bonsfoe.onstreammedia.com/origin/bonnier_twmoto/videos/2007/Dunlop_dl.flv > > > Careful, this is a 40 MB file but it does show the technique to use to break the tire bead from the rim on tube type tires, using a hand tool tire iron > > > So I think I'm going to get me a 6 pack of barley soda and practice tire bead breaking using my tire irons pretty soon=:-) > I didn't wait for the entire file to download, but I know of two methods. The first requires a single spoon, like the Motion Pro steel spoon with the looped handle. Work the head of the spoon between the bead and the rim. Stick a tool (another tire lever, wrench, screwdriver) through the loop in the handle and use the tool for leverage to twist the spoon, separating the bead from the rim. The bead will spring back in place at first, but if you work your way along the rim a little at a time, the bead will eventually separate from the rim. Once you have six or eight inches free, you can usually just push with your hand to break the rest of the bead. A squirt or two of WD40 will speed the process. (Water will work too, but WD40 in a spray can is usually easier to find.) The other method requires three tire levers of any type. Laying them close together side by side, work the heads under the rim. With the heel of your hand push down on the outer two levers while lifting up on the center one. Once again, the bead may not want to separate from the rim at first, but shift the levers a bit and keep at it. WD40 is your friend here, too.