nklr-tents

[Rich Kickbush]

So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? Rich [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[monahanwb@yahoo.com]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Rich Kickbush" wrote:

> So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need

to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? Thoug I am loath to admit it, I have owned numerous BMWs. R60s and such (now called "slash-2s") would fray clutch cables like any other bike of the time. I learned how to ride home (had to go through some traffic, too) without a clutch. I used to use some 3in1 oil on them, it worked pretty well. Cables are better nowadays, they don't seem to go away as quickly. I had a K-bike which had the original cables on it after I sold it at 102,000 miles. Being protected from road spray by a fairing is influential in attaining long cable life. I believe teflon spray or silicon spray is good shit for modern cables.

[thesquasher@hotmail.com]

Some mountain bikes have cables with GoreTex (Teflon) in them. Don't know if they make it for motorcycles. I don't know why they use GoreTex over standard Teflon. It must be that people will pay more just for the name. Try Dry Moly spray. It comes in a arosol can and can be applied like regular lube to the cable. When the carrier solvent dries your left with a dry film of Moly (dark grey or black color). Honda makes a chain lube that has Moly and Teflon. BUT I recomend NOT USING IT because it dries sticky and may make the clutch + throttle hard to use or unpredictable.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Rich Kickbush" wrote: > So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? > > Rich > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jcniday]

Here's a concoction I've used in the past. Mix powdered graphite with alcohol. The alcohol acts as a medium through which the graphite can be distributed to the inner workings of the cable. Within a few minutes, the alcohol evaporates leaving a fine coat of graphite in there. Action is very smooth. Don't know if this will work on lined cables, but don't see any reason that it shouldn't. Anyone know of a reason why this might be bad for modern cables? I've also used this concoction intermittently to lube chains. Jim

----- Original Message ----- From: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 12:13 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Digest Number 1090 > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > There are 25 messages in this issue. > > Topics in this digest: > > 1. Arm Length > From: "Pat Schafer" > 2. RE: Re: NKLR Going to Germany, what do I get? > From: eschelzig@... > 3. Re: Arm Length > From: "Don Detloff" > 4. Re: Kendas CHEAP at Chapparal > From: robb_seurkamp@... > 5. RE: !!! WRONG!!!!! [Fwd: CamelBak screws off roader s] NKLR > From: eschelzig@... > 6. Spring industry announcements NKLR > From: k650dsn@... > 7. CamelBak screws off roaders, not? Eco-rant NKLR > From: "Swede" > 8. re: Flip-ups vs. Moto-visored > From: Chris Rolt > 9. side panel fasteners > From: "Divina Moreira" > 10. Need help with in-law NKLR > From: "\"Swede\"" > 11. Tensioner > From: "Thomas Baumen" > 12. clutch and startup > From: eschelzig@... > 13. Re: Need help with in-law NKLR > From: kcorriga@... > 14. Re: clutch and startup > From: Toby 'Slide' Lampson > 15. Re: Tensioner > From: Toby 'Slide' Lampson > 16. RE: clutch and startup > From: Claes Borovac > 17. Cable lube > From: "Rich Kickbush" > 18. Re: clutch and startup > From: IronJungle@... > 19. Re: clutch and startup > From: "Don Detloff" > 20. Clutch oil drag (oil thread again ***!!!) > From: BCSavWill@... > 21. Re: Cable lube > From: monahanwb@... > 22. Michigan Madman... NKLR > From: "Kurt Simpson" > 23. Re: Cable lube > From: thesquasher@... > 24. Re: clutch and startup > From: punkynlew@... > 25. Re: Michigan Madman... NKLR > From: "Don Detloff" > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:31:01 -0500 > From: "Pat Schafer" > Subject: Arm Length > > When I sit on my KLR and put my feet up on the highway pegs I don't feel that I have all the grip that I want around the grips. When sitting on other dual sports the handlebars seemed back further ( maybe this was perceived) Can I rotate my bars back? Is there a standard position a measurment from something or is this just feel? What about replacement bars are there some made that have more distance? > thanks > Pat > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:08:20 -0500 > From: eschelzig@... > Subject: RE: Re: NKLR Going to Germany, what do I get? > > I'm surprised that you can't find good deals in Germany, given the good (for > Americans) exchange rate, and the fact that you will be reimbursed value > added taxes (VAT) at the airport upon departure. > > One place to check out is Bernd Tesch's site at http://www.berndtesch.de. > He sells all sorts of expedition gear, including aluminum panniers, starting > at about DM300 (~$150) per. Bernd's written English is a little shaky, but > he has some good stuff available and has loads of round-the-world type > experience, so he might be worth looking up. > > Bests, > > Erik > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: IronJungle@... [mailto:IronJungle@...] > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 6:04 PM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Going to Germany, what do I get? > > > I travel to Germany several times a year. I don't think there is any > motorcycle item that can be purchased cheaper there than in the US. > Provided, of course, that the item is sold in the US. You may > consider bringing back a Honda Africa Twin, for example. > > Pat > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Joshua Sammons" wrote: > > Hey, > > I'm headed to Germany on April 5th, I was wondering if there are > any parts I > > can get cheaper for the KLR there than here in UT > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:18:38 -0000 > From: "Don Detloff" > Subject: Re: Arm Length > > Rotate the bars back to what is most comfortable for you. If that is > not enough, replace the bars with some that have more pull back. > > Don Detloff > Fair Have, MI A14 > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Pat Schafer" wrote: > > When I sit on my KLR and put my feet up on the highway pegs I don't > feel that I have all the grip that I want around the grips. When > sitting on other dual sports the handlebars seemed back further ( > maybe this was perceived) Can I rotate my bars back? Is there a > standard position a measurment from something or is this just feel? > What about replacement bars are there some made that have more > distance? > > thanks > > Pat > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:28:31 -0000 > From: robb_seurkamp@... > Subject: Re: Kendas CHEAP at Chapparal > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Stuart Mumford" wrote: > > http://www.chaparral-racing.com/chaparr ... asp?family% > 5Fid=100 > > 9&pf%5Fid=&mscssid=0LW4KGAC6P729ME9CKN02GP6XJSSDF60 > > > > > > I don't know if the whole link will fit on the list, if not just go > to > > http://www.chapparal-racing.com and go from there... > > > > Name 3.25 X 21 Kenda K270 Enduro Tire Front > > Product Number 328-6235 Price: $22.99 > > > > Name 5.10 X 17 Kenda K270 Enduro Tire Rear > > Product Number 328-6225 Price: $34.99 > > > > The store in San Berdoo doesn't have them in stock (I called) and > last time > > I ordered through them it took 6 weeks for a Dynojet adn K&N > package.. If > > they ain't got it in stock, I sure ain't orderin' through them > again... > > YServiceMV > > > > CA Stu > > Keep in mind that they have an $8.00 per tire shipping charge. Still > a good price with it tacked on. I just ordered my MT21s from them. > > Robb > '00KLR650 > Baltimore, MD > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:38:37 -0500 > From: eschelzig@... > Subject: RE: !!! WRONG!!!!! [Fwd: CamelBak screws off roader s] NKLR > > Before "We report, you decide," you have to determine that what you report > is actually reliable information. Otherwise, you're nothing much more than > a Matt Drudge type, who's happy with variable accuracy as long as it's fast > and juicy. > > Actual, official information can be found through a quick scan of the > Camelback Web site (www.camelback.com). This will give you a pretty good > sense of what the company's target group is, and it ain't motorcyclists, > folks. There's not one picture of motorcycles on the site, and motorcycles > are mentioned but twice in the list of 82 uses for camelback hydration > systems. As such, the company simply might have more to gain by being > pro-roadless initiative than they do to fight for access for motorized > vehicles for business reasons. > > The company also seems to have strong focus on military/police applications > for their products. > > The company doesn't come out implicitly or explicitly for or against > motorcycles - it's just that they seem to care more about bicycling, which > makes sense given that pedaling is much more dehydrating than twisting a > throttle. > > If you want an official stance by the company, you can drop them a line at: > > US Headquarters: > email us: webmaster@... > > CamelBak Products, Inc. > 1310 Redwood Way > Ste. 200 > Petaluma, CA 94954 > Tel: 800-767-8725 * 707-792-9700 > Fax: 707-665-9231 > > Bests, > > Erik > > -----Original Message----- > From: Russell Scott [mailto:russell@...] > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 8:29 PM > To: 'KLR Kountry' > Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] !!! WRONG!!!!! [Fwd: CamelBak screws off > roaders] NKLR > > > As Bill O'Reilly says "We report, you decide." I do know if the VP has a > strong association with ORCA. I read the article and its really kind of > iffy. It may be just guilt by association, or it may be the VP of Camelbak > is a hard core eco-nazi. I don't own a Camelbak, so I have no personal > stake in this controversy. This would give me second thoughts about > purchjasing their products though. I will continue to monitor the > situation, and hopefully Camelbak will make a clear statement regarding its > position. > > Russel'r > -----Original Message----- > From: thesquasher@... [SMTP:thesquasher@...] > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:03 PM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] !!! WRONG!!!!! [Fwd: CamelBak screws off > roaders] > NKLR > > This is most likely a B.S. post it's been going around for several > years now. I'm not blameing Russell Scott (or Scott Russel) for this > post but Don't jump on CammelBack unless your sure it's true. > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Russell Scott wrote: > > ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- > > > > From: Donald C. Amador, 112531,1311 > > TO: CamelBak, INTERNET:webmaster@c... > > DATE: 3/14/01 6:10 AM > > > > RE: Copy of: Throwing away my CamelBak because of green agenda > > > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:32:26 -0000 > From: k650dsn@... > Subject: Spring industry announcements NKLR > > Well, my sources are beginning to trickle information to me and I > must say that these are some of the most bizarre product announcements > I have seen in a long, long time. Also, a surprise announcement from > the National Park Service that I'm trying to verify. Stay tuned. > > Gino > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 15:02:11 -0000 > From: "Swede" > Subject: CamelBak screws off roaders, not? Eco-rant NKLR > > I doubt that they try to screw off-roaders. They are like any other > company, trying to make a profit. I don't use Camelback because of > the expense, I've found others that have larger capacities and are > significantly less expensive. Companies may donate money based on > clientelle (eco-nut yuppies who pay as much for their mountain bikes > than we did for the KLRs, and do more damage through sheer numbers). > It's the "Cult of Personality" - motorcyclists have had a bad rap > for years and no matter how hard we try, through trail maintainence > or any other good deed, Granny Goodcookie will still think of us as > a planetary source of evil. Shoot, some of the members of this group > even have hipocritical opinions on some of the subjects. I believe > REI is also a big eco-donator, but that's not the reason I don't > shop there. The reason I don't shop there is that I can find > everything I could get there at Military surplus stores and not have > to pay REI's inflated prices. > > Back to sheer numbers: two years ago, at the Moab get together, a > buddy and I had just came through the Gemini Bridges area and took a > break. Where we were, we saw what must have been 10,000 bicyclists - > everyone of them giving US crusty looks, 4 Jeepers - who paid us no > mind, and us - the two motorcyclists. The dust put out by the > bicyclists was thick enough to make a Camel choke. Erosion wise, > it's like comparing a single bull in a pasture to twenty calves in > another. The bull is more intimidating, but doesn't trample the > brush like the calves. Especially when stampedeing, but the calves > are sooo cute. > > "Swede" > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 8 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:16:39 -0800 (PST) > From: Chris Rolt > Subject: re: Flip-ups vs. Moto-visored > > I haven't tried these, but got the link from another > list last year. (sundowner at the bottom of page) > > http://www.americanroadrider.com/misc.html > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 9 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:27:05 -0300 > From: "Divina Moreira" > Subject: side panel fasteners > > has anyone done or thought about using 1/4 turn self retaining > fastener (dzus for example)on the side panels of the klr. just > wondering about application, cost and performance. > later > jeff ball > > > Webmail Nortecnet > http://www.nortecnet.com.br > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 10 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:30:06 -0700 > From: "\"Swede\"" > Subject: Need help with in-law NKLR > > I have been asked to find a dirt bike for/by my father-in-law. He stands about 5'5" and weighs > approximately 130 lbs. Here's what he wants: 18" of wheel travel, 14" of ground clearance, 28" > seat height, street legalable, 5 gal. fuel tank, power of a CR500 weight of a YZ125 in a liquid > cooled four-stroke, electric start or kickstart that's easy, and at the cost of a KX60. Any > suggestions would be appreciated. The only thing I can think of is a heavily modified trials bike, > but there goes the price! If something like this could be found, I'd buy the damn thing! > > I guess retirement doesn't have anything to do with reality. He also thinks a SCORE trophy > truck would be good for rock crawling in Moab. > > "Swede" head. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 11 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:48:12 -0800 > From: "Thomas Baumen" > Subject: Tensioner > > Is it true that a defective balancer tensioner can cause a motor to > grenade? How difficult of a job is updateing the balancer mechanism? I > have a 93 and it seems to run fine but a little preventative work is > always a good idea. > Tom Baumen > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 12 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:50:27 -0500 > From: eschelzig@... > Subject: clutch and startup > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me if this has > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up the bike > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after letting it warm > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, the bike > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I have the > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other than when I > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not always. Is > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, the oil, not > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm missing here? > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 13 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:16:59 -0000 > From: kcorriga@... > Subject: Re: Need help with in-law NKLR > > Swede, I've been travelling for work lately so I haven't been on-list > since the 'can-o-worms' thread petered out. If you find anything > that fits your father in-law's demands let me know cuz I want one > too! The only thing that might do it is a Rokon Trailbreaker with a > Baja Designs dual sport upgrade??? Good Luck! > > K.C. > 2 - A14s > (2 more feet of new snow this week in Monkton Vermont, Sh*#!) > P.S. - every time I check in to one of yours or Bierdos treads after > I've been off line for awhile it reminds me why I like this list so > much! > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "\"Swede\"" wrote: > > I have been asked to find a dirt bike for/by my father-in-law. He > stands about 5'5" and weighs > > approximately 130 lbs. Here's what he wants: 18" of wheel travel, > 14" of ground clearance, 28" > > seat height, street legalable, 5 gal. fuel tank, power of a CR500 > weight of a YZ125 in a liquid > > cooled four-stroke, electric start or kickstart that's easy, and at > the cost of a KX60. Any > > suggestions would be appreciated. The only thing I can think of is > a > heavily modified trials bike, > > but there goes the price! If something like this could be found, > I'd > buy the damn thing! > > > > I guess retirement doesn't have anything to do with reality. He > also > thinks a SCORE trophy > > truck would be good for rock crawling in Moab. > > > > "Swede" you want" playing in my > > head. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 14 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:08:22 -0800 > From: Toby 'Slide' Lampson > Subject: Re: clutch and startup > > eschelzig@... wrote: > > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me if this has > > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up the bike > > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after letting it warm > > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, the bike > > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I have the > > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other than when I > > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not always. Is > > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, the oil, not > > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm missing here? > > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > When was the last time you changed your oil?....adjusted your cable? > With the symptom(s) as you mention......consider oil/linkage changes. > This ought to remedy it....if not, I'm sure some further valid ideas > will follow. > > Slide > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 15 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:10:14 -0800 > From: Toby 'Slide' Lampson > Subject: Re: Tensioner > > Quick, yet priceless.......get on it son! > It'll be fun! Really........ > > Slide > > Thomas Baumen wrote: > > > Is it true that a defective balancer tensioner can cause a motor to > > grenade? How difficult of a job is updateing the balancer mechanism? I > > have a 93 and it seems to run fine but a little preventative work is > > always a good idea. > > Tom Baumen > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 16 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:16:52 -0000 > From: Claes Borovac > Subject: RE: clutch and startup > > The trick here is to hold the clutch in and blip the throttle a couple of > times. Should cure it. Using a car oil in the engine can sometimes make the > clutch "mushy" and the plates weld together when they get cold. > > > Claes. > -----Original Message----- > From: eschelzig@... [mailto:eschelzig@...] > Sent: 15 March 2001 15:50 > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] clutch and startup > > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me if this has > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up the bike > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after letting it warm > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, the bike > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I have the > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other than when I > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not always. Is > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, the oil, not > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm missing here? > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 17 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:33:14 -0800 > From: "Rich Kickbush" > Subject: Cable lube > > So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? > > Rich > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 18 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:52:02 -0000 > From: IronJungle@... > Subject: Re: clutch and startup > > Here is another tip: Before you start the bike, shift it into 2nd or > 3rd and try to rock it back and forth a few times. This will break > the plates loose as well. (Worked on my old Honda XL250) > > Pat > Austin TX > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Claes Borovac wrote: > > The trick here is to hold the clutch in and blip the throttle a > couple of > > times. Should cure it. Using a car oil in the engine can sometimes > make the > > clutch "mushy" and the plates weld together when they get cold. > > > > > > Claes. > > -----Original Message----- > > From: eschelzig@i... [mailto:eschelzig@i...] > > Sent: 15 March 2001 15:50 > > To: DSN_klr650@y... > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] clutch and startup > > > > > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me if > this has > > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up the > bike > > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after letting > it warm > > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, > the bike > > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I > have the > > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other than > when I > > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not > always. Is > > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, the > oil, not > > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm > missing here? > > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@s... > > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 19 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:13:08 -0000 > From: "Don Detloff" > Subject: Re: clutch and startup > > Here's another way if your bike has a center stand. > > 1) Put bike up on stand before starting engine. > 2) Sit one bike. > 3) Start Engine. > 4) After sufficient warmup ... rev to about 6500 rpm. > 5) Push bike off center stand. > 6) WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Anyone remember (or heard of) "The Michigan Madman" ... E.J. Potter > from back in the 60's? I know, it's hard to remember ANYTHING from the > 60's for some people > > E.J. had a drag bike with a small block Chevy in it. He would use the > method above on all his runs. Pretty impressive stuff 30-35 years ago. > > Don Detloff > Fair Haven, MI A14 > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., IronJungle@H... wrote: > > Here is another tip: Before you start the bike, shift it into 2nd > or > > 3rd and try to rock it back and forth a few times. This will break > > the plates loose as well. (Worked on my old Honda XL250) > > > > Pat > > Austin TX > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Claes Borovac wrote: > > > The trick here is to hold the clutch in and blip the throttle a > > couple of > > > times. Should cure it. Using a car oil in the engine can > sometimes > > make the > > > clutch "mushy" and the plates weld together when they get cold. > > > > > > > > > Claes. > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: eschelzig@i... [mailto:eschelzig@i...] > > > Sent: 15 March 2001 15:50 > > > To: DSN_klr650@y... > > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] clutch and startup > > > > > > > > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me > if > > this has > > > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up > the > > bike > > > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after > letting > > it warm > > > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, > > the bike > > > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I > > have the > > > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other > than > > when I > > > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not > > always. Is > > > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, > the > > oil, not > > > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm > > missing here? > > > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@s... > > > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > > > > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 20 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:18:33 EST > From: BCSavWill@... > Subject: Clutch oil drag (oil thread again ***!!!) > > Hi all, > > Just had the 650 jacked up and dismantled for service. > > Before finishing I fired up the engine, let it warm, pulled in the clutch, > selected first, the wheel did not turn (no drag). Amazing. Remember gearboxes > that would turn a wheel in neutral jacked up. > > Silkolene Pro 4 oil. (full synthetic) > Super slick shift > > Full throttle, max torque, NO slip. > > Wonder how many are saying "Oh no not again!!) > > Brian > A14 > D17 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 21 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:19:05 -0000 > From: monahanwb@... > Subject: Re: Cable lube > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Rich Kickbush" wrote: > > So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need > to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can > squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a > better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? > > > Thoug I am loath to admit it, I have owned numerous BMWs. R60s and > such (now called "slash-2s") would fray clutch cables like any other > bike of the time. I learned how to ride home (had to go through some > traffic, too) without a clutch. I used to use some 3in1 oil on them, > it worked pretty well. > > Cables are better nowadays, they don't seem to go away as quickly. I > had a K-bike which had the original cables on it after I sold it at > 102,000 miles. Being protected from road spray by a fairing is > influential in attaining long cable life. I believe teflon spray or > silicon spray is good shit for modern cables. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 22 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:24:53 -0700 > From: "Kurt Simpson" > Subject: Michigan Madman... NKLR > > > Anyone remember (or heard of) "The Michigan Madman" ... E.J. Potter > > from back in the 60's? I know, it's hard to remember ANYTHING from the > > 60's for some people > > > > E.J. had a drag bike with a small block Chevy in it. He would use the > > method above on all his runs. Pretty impressive stuff 30-35 years ago. > > > http://www.msdra.com/old/n3.htm > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 23 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:25:22 -0000 > From: thesquasher@... > Subject: Re: Cable lube > > Some mountain bikes have cables with GoreTex (Teflon) in them. Don't > know if they make it for motorcycles. I don't know why they use > GoreTex over standard Teflon. It must be that people will pay more > just for the name. Try Dry Moly spray. It comes in a arosol can and > can be applied like regular lube to the cable. When the carrier > solvent dries your left with a dry film of Moly (dark grey or black > color). Honda makes a chain lube that has Moly and Teflon. BUT I > recomend NOT USING IT because it dries sticky and may make the clutch > + throttle hard to use or unpredictable. > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Rich Kickbush" wrote: > > So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need > to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can > squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a > better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? > > > > Rich > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 24 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:07:25 -0000 > From: punkynlew@... > Subject: Re: clutch and startup > > Hey Slide: Do you think maybe Erik should drain the oil and send it > for a complete chemical analysis? Such an analysis might help > determine if there is major engine damage fouling the oil prematurely > or perhaps a need to replace the entire clutch assembly and/or > overhaul the tranny. On the other hand, the analysis might indicate > everything is normal and Erik could just give the throttle a couple > of blip revs to break the cold sticky clutch plates loose before > shifting into gear the first time. Just a thought. > > Punky & Lew > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Toby 'Slide' Lampson wrote: > > eschelzig@i... wrote: > > > > > I've had a bit of an odd occurrence on my new KLR650. Forgive me > if this has > > > been covered before, but a couple of times now, when I start up > the bike > > > after it sits all night (in about ~30 degree temps), after > letting it warm > > > up for two or three minutes, jump on, and tap it into first gear, > the bike > > > lurches forward and stalls out. Before you say anything, yes, I > have the > > > clutch lever fully pulled back. I never have a problem other > than when I > > > start the bike after an overnight stop, and even then, it's not > always. Is > > > there a problem with my clutch wire tension, the clutch plates, > the oil, not > > > warming up long enough? Are there any obvious steps that I'm > missing here? > > > Thanks and bests, Erik a15 > > > > When was the last time you changed your oil?....adjusted your cable? > > With the symptom(s) as you mention......consider oil/linkage > changes. > > This ought to remedy it....if not, I'm sure some further valid ideas > > will follow. > > > > Slide > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > Message: 25 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:13:30 -0000 > From: "Don Detloff" > Subject: Re: Michigan Madman... NKLR > > Some history of E. J. > > http://www.nitronic.com/madman/index2.html > > Don Detloff > Fair Haven, MI A14 > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Kurt Simpson" wrote: > > > Anyone remember (or heard of) "The Michigan Madman" ... E.J. > Potter > > > from back in the 60's? I know, it's hard to remember ANYTHING from > the > > > 60's for some people > > > > > > E.J. had a drag bike with a small block Chevy in it. He would use > the > > > method above on all his runs. Pretty impressive stuff 30-35 years > ago. > > > > > > http://www.msdra.com/old/n3.htm > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Ted Palmer]

thesquasher@... wrote: [...]

> Try Dry Moly spray. It comes in a arosol can and > can be applied like regular lube to the cable. When the carrier > solvent dries your left with a dry film of Moly (dark grey or black > color).

[...] This solvent aspect has concerned me for some time. How fast will a solvent dry up deep down in the cable? As the solvent slowly (and somehow) dissipates from inside the cable, what is it doing to the cable covering etc? IMO, a cable lube should not rely on a solvent to be lightweight enough to squirt into a cable in some manner. In the past, I have used things like CRC 5-56 or Wynn's silicone spray to lube my cables but I'm having a rethink. I guess that if the spray can uses a CO2 propellant then the stuff inside might not use a solvent. A spray can indicating a hydrocarbon propellant might pose some slight risk to whatever plastic is inside the average cable on a bike. I'll have to have a closer look at a can of cable lube the next time I hang around a bike shop. Mister_T

[thesquasher@hotmail.com]

I would think that weather and UV sunlight would do more damage to the cable case then the solvent. But maybe solvent would accelerate the damage.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Ted Palmer wrote: > > This solvent aspect has concerned me for some time. > How fast will a solvent dry up deep down in the cable? > As the solvent slowly (and somehow) dissipates from inside the cable, > what is it doing to the cable covering etc? > IMO, a cable lube should not rely on a solvent to be lightweight > enough to squirt into a cable in some manner. > In the past, I have used things like CRC 5-56 or Wynn's silicone spray > to lube my cables but I'm having a rethink. > I guess that if the spray can uses a CO2 propellant then the stuff > inside might not use a solvent. > A spray can indicating a hydrocarbon propellant might pose some slight > risk to whatever plastic is inside the average cable on a bike. > I'll have to have a closer look at a can of cable lube the next time > I hang around a bike shop. > > Mister_T

[dinero_0@yahoo.com]

Group, I'm a recent KLR owner (thanks to this group to help me make the right choice), and an infant again to motorcycle maintenance. I was wondering if anyone has tried "Tri-Flow" on the cables as a lubricant. It is a teflon based lubricant that comes in an aerosal can or a squeeze bottle. I use it quite a bit on the machines that I work on, and pretty much consider it the cure all for many applications. I was thinking about using it on the cables, but if those more knowledgeable have had bad experience with it, i'll try something else. TKS, Mike A15

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Rich Kickbush" wrote: > So I'm told some BeeEmDoubleU bikes have cables that you don't need to lube, they're coated in Teflon. Is there any product we can squirt in our cables that would bond to the metal and provide a better protection than just lube? Slick 50 (PFTE?) spray? > > Rich > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RM]

On Fri, 1 Mar 2002 TexasThumpin@... wrote:

>These articles went on to say that by adding an oil based item to the >cables would cause the cable to attract and retain more grains of dirt, >sand, dust, water, etc.. Therefore; I have never oiled a cable in the >past 15 years, and none have ever snapped on me. I carry an extra just >to CYA. Yet, I have never needed it.

My bike, as delivered, had a VERY stiff and catchy cable. I had no choice but to lube the cable. I don't know how long it could have lived like that. RM

[John Lyon]

On page 140 of the April issue of Motorcyclist there is an article about cable maintenance titled "six things you didn't know about cables" written by Chris Carter, President of Motion Pro. His take on lubing cables: Do not use chain lube Use a silicone based cable lube Use molybdenum based waterproof grease for spedo cables John --- RM wrote:

> > On Fri, 1 Mar 2002 TexasThumpin@... wrote: > > >These articles went on to say that by adding an oil > based item to the > >cables would cause the cable to attract and retain > more grains of dirt, > >sand, dust, water, etc.. Therefore; I have never > oiled a cable in the > >past 15 years, and none have ever snapped on me. I > carry an extra just > >to CYA. Yet, I have never needed it. > > My bike, as delivered, had a VERY stiff and catchy > cable. I had no > choice but to lube the cable. I don't know how long > it could have lived > like that. > > RM

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[Larry W Menefee]

Jeff, you are right....Teflon cables should never be lubed,they are made to run dry.... That`s what makes them soooo smooooooth!!!! Larry W. Menefee 1467 Hempwood Drive Columbus, Ohio 43229 (614) 436-9944 --------------------------------- Sponsored Link Don't quit your job - take classes online and earn your degree in 1 year. Start Today [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]