motor replacement instructions

[klr_a4]

Extreme cold in eastern Maine at the moment.... -6 F. plus 45 mph gusts Good to see the list so active. Found a post Xmas deal on 87-07 front KLR brake pads @ amazon.com through sixity...gotta look to see the low price. But good enough to buy spares No affiliation yada yada.... Conall A7 with 60K+, A9

[spike55_bmw]

After noticing my stopping distances increased when I replaced the OEM pads with ones from Parts Unlimited (PU), I started to pay attention to what worked and what didn't. 80s-07 KLR650 brakes aren't spectacular to begin with, so brake material and contact area make a lot of difference. A side by side comparison indicated that there were no metal flakes in the PU pads and that the pad area was millimeters smaller in length and width. From that point on, I saved all of my used brake pads for comparisons of what worked and what didn't - so well. Over then next 2 yrs, I used a combo of EBC and DP with good results. These were copper-colored because of the amount of metal in them. This fall, I purchased DP f/r and was horrified to see that the pads area was noticably smaller (length and width), although they were still the copper-color that worked so well before. The dealer kindly didn't force me to take them when I did my side-by-side comparison on his counter top. I ordered the Galfer pads from Fred, their pad areas were as large as OEM, the pad material adequately filled the metal backing plate - max rotor contact area, contained the 'magic' metal flakes, and they work fine. Maybe EBC and others are OK. I just didn't check since everything has to be ordered in at my local dealers. My point, in this reply, is that I want to look / touch my potential new brake pads since it seems that small variations in composition and surface area can add 100' or more to my '06 KLR's awesome stopping distances. Maybe if I had the 320mm front rotor or the '08-'10 double piston calipers, it would be less critical. BTW, I did install braided stainless steel lines a while ago. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr_a4" wrote: > > Extreme cold in eastern Maine at the moment.... -6 F. plus 45 mph gusts > Good to see the list so active. > Found a post Xmas deal on 87-07 front KLR brake pads @ amazon.com through sixity...gotta look to see the low price. But good enough to buy spares > > No affiliation yada yada.... > > Conall > A7 with 60K+, A9 >

[Fred Hink]

Don,   Which DP brakepads were you using?  Dunlopad makes two different brakepads for the KLR, the standard DP and the MX series.  The Dunlopad MX brakepads are the only HH rated brakepads I know of for the KLR and should stop the best out of all of your choices.  I stock six different brakepads for the KLR.  As soon as my distributor sends me one of the brakepads I am out of at the moment, I can measure all of them and let you know their sizes.   EBC has stopped making the standard oversized rotor for the KLR but they have replaced it with a new "supermoto" over sized rotor that is a wave rotor.  Wave rotors look cool and all that but I am not 100% convinced that a wave rotor works noticeably better than a standard oversized rotor.   I'd like to know how you went about testing your brakepads.  Thanks, Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://s1.zetaboards.com/arrowhead    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] spike55_bmw@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 30, 2009 8:06 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Sixity 87- 07 KLR650 Fr Brake pads   After noticing my stopping distances increased when I replaced the OEM pads with ones from Parts Unlimited (PU), I started to pay attention to what worked and what didn't. 80s-07 KLR650 brakes aren't spectacular to begin with, so brake material and contact area make a lot of difference. A side by side comparison indicated that there were no metal flakes in the PU pads and that the pad area was millimeters smaller in length and width. From that point on, I saved all of my used brake pads for comparisons of what worked and what didn't - so well. Over then next 2 yrs, I used a combo of EBC and DP with good results. These were copper-colored because of the amount of metal in them. This fall, I purchased DP f/r and was horrified to see that the pads area was noticably smaller (length and width), although they were still the copper-color that worked so well before. The dealer kindly didn't force me to take them when I did my side-by-side comparison on his counter top. I ordered the Galfer pads from Fred, their pad areas were as large as OEM, the pad material adequately filled the metal backing plate - max rotor contact area, contained the 'magic' metal flakes, and they work fine. Maybe EBC and others are OK. I just didn't check since everything has to be ordered in at my local dealers. My point, in this reply, is that I want to look / touch my potential new brake pads since it seems that small variations in composition and surface area can add 100' or more to my '06 KLR's awesome stopping distances. Maybe if I had the 320mm front rotor or the '08-'10 double piston calipers, it would be less critical. BTW, I did install braided stainless steel lines a while ago. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "klr_a4" wrote: > > Extreme cold in eastern Maine at the moment.... -6 F. plus 45 mph gusts > Good to see the list so active. > Found a post Xmas deal on 87-07 front KLR brake pads @ amazon.com through sixity...gotta look to see the low price. But good enough to buy spares > > No affiliation yada yada.... > > Conall > A7 with 60K+, A9 >

[Thomas Komjathy]

Steve It is very much straight forward, the cooling system disconnected and moved out of the way, the two electrical connectors from the stator, remove all the motor-mounts, carb and exhaust header-pipe, pull counter-shaft sprocket if you need it, or drop chain off sprocket, remove water temp connection and spark plug boot at the head and then move the bracket that holds them out of the way, then pull that boat anchor. Reverse order for assembly. If you have someone to help take it out and put it in, that is the hardest physical part, the rest is turning screws and plugging stuff in. TK [b]From:[/b] Steve [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, December 30, 2009 6:37:08 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Motor Replacement Instructions   Thanks to all who gave me ideas for finding a new motor. I located a motor in California that is on its way to me in Panama. Does anyone know of any step-by-step instructions for replacing the entire motor/tranny unit? I feel capable of doing the work, but would hate to leave a step out or struggle with something that should be easy.