oem what is it? defined?

[squasher_1]

I have had problems with the KLR twice because of rain. but the rain was very very heavy both times. almost like getting blasted with a fire hose. I think if i rode the bike under water it would have been dryer

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, tim dermody wrote: > Got an A18 wqith 2400+ and have had no electrical > problems I can positively attribute to wet weather > riding. Granted, I've probably not shaken loose the > shoddy factory installed and tightened connectors yet. > But, I've riden hours in wet fog, drizzel and light > rain, and have been caught in torential downpours with > no ignition or electrical cut-outs. I've even dropped > the bike on it's side for about 10 seconds during a > failed river crossing (14 inch deep). Never missed a > beat there either. I'm sure my day will come though. > It's just a matter of time, distance, speed and water. > It's our curse for riding bikes in the wet and wild I > think. However, all posts connected to correcting or > preventing electrical or ignition cut-out that I've > seen are technically sound and wouldn't hurt a thing > if performed correctly and often. > > Tim > > --- Lujo Bauer wrote: > > > KLR650 are known to have wet weather electrical > > problems. Mine would > > > cut out in the rain & let me tell you, being > > stranded on the side of > > > the road, in the rain is not my idea of a good > > time. > > > > I disagree that KLRs are known to have wet-weather > > problems. Other than > > performing the T mod, which helps some people and > > others (like me) > > haven't bothered to do, it's rare to hear of people > > having problems with > > rain. Certainly anything electrical is not going to > > *love* the rain, > > but bikes don't get much more rainproof than KLRs. > > > > -Lujo > >

[Norm Keller]

At the risk of being drawn in to a "Have not! Have too!" Why do you suspect an electrical problem? Usually the only time water will affect wiring is if there is high tension involved. I ahve to qualify that by saying that some ignition primaries will act a bit squirrely with water (especially salty water) but then igniton primary voltages can climb above 100 volts so... If you haven't done the carb bowl vent "T" modification, that would be the first thing to do. My A18 behaved like a wet ignition before I did the modification. I was so surprised at the symptoms and suggested solution that I had to put it back to stock to verify that the problem came back. It is unlikely (although not impossible) that you have a 12 volt wiring problem which only shows up in the rain. Water simply isn't a good enough conductor to affect 12 volt circuits under bike type loads. Please keep us posted on your progress. Norm KeLleR --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dbrow10031]

lost my juice on my '86 klr 600 last month and between two dealer shops, I got it fixed with the shotgun approach. All thats left to change is the stator/flywheel. Does anybody know if newer klr 650 parts will work? Does anybody have one they want to sell me? I might not see any replies in the chatroom, but any advice in my emai I would get. thanks dbrow10031@...

[Kevin Powers]

Saturday I joined some Twin City Dualsport folks for a ride on my '04 KLR. It was a fun outing until just before the first coffee stop, when my vest got cold, the lights went out and my tach stopped working. After coffee the bike was dead. With some able assistance we were able to bump start the bike. (ATGATT - even when pushing a KLR; I was running behind the bike and when it caught and surged forward I went tumbling ass over tea kettle) I bailed out at that point to sort out the electrical issues. At home I found that the fuses on top of the batery and the fuse to the Gerbing were all good. I removed the battery and found that the cells were low and/or dry and the battery was warm. The folks at batteries plus tested the battery and said it still showed a weak charge. They suggested topping it off with distilled water and giving it a charge. I put the battery on the trickle charger overnight and in the morning had a green light indicating it was charged. Installed the battery and still nothing - none of the dash lights come on, no horn, etc. but the Gerbing controller lights up. I swapped in a battery from anothe bike and the results were the same. Any suggestions where to check next? Is there a reset device or breaker that I am missing? Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Powers" wrote:

> > Any suggestions where to check next? Is there a reset device or > breaker that I am missing? > > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN >

Kevin, Glad you were not hurt bump starting the KLR. IT can be a handful, best done with a little help, and a steep hill. Sometimes both are in short supply. For those that have not done this before, 3rd gear seems to work best when bump-starting to overcome the compression and inertia of the one-lunger. I would be still suspicious of the battery, especially when you got lights, but you got no spin. After the battery has sat static for a day, what is the voltage on the battery? It should be 12.6v for a good battery. However, a 12V battery should still crank your bike, just slower. The slower turning starter builds up heat, and ultimately it is not good for the starter. Did you clean the battery contacts? Did you check the connection at the starter and starter solenoid for a good, corrosion free connection? Follow the battery positive lead to the solenoid, and the lead to the starter. Check the battery ground, from the neg side of the battery to the frame, for a corrosion free connection. Check the fuses with a volt meter for continuity. and. Change out the OEM fuses with a blade type as soon as you can. It is on the best-dressed KLR list for long-term success, and there is a 'lister' that is selling a plug and play kit on ebay for this farkle. Even though the battery charger was 'green', the battery still might have suffered damage from low water, heat, etc. The OEM battery requires attention at least, every 1500 miles. My WALMart replacement has not used any water in 1500 miles...must be something do with battery construction, venting etc. There is a lot of good 'previous advice' on batteries in the past, in particular the maint. free battery. A great way to rapidly service an acid battery with distilled water is to use a rubber-bulb 'nose-syringe' available in the pharmacy section. revmaaatin.

[Samuel Hudson]

Multiple systems failures usually share a common source of ground. Find that ground. --samuelhudson

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Nov 13, 2006, at 6:07 AM, Kevin Powers wrote:

> I put the battery on the trickle charger overnight and in the morning > had a green light indicating it was charged. Installed the battery > and still nothing - none of the dash lights come on, no horn, etc. but > the Gerbing controller lights up. I swapped in a battery from anothe > bike and the results were the same.

Is your Gerbing controller run directly off the battery? If so, I'd bet that your main fuse under the seat is bad. It probably doesn't look bad, but they can be deceiving. Try replacing it with a brand new one that hasn't been bouncing around on the bike. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Randy S]

Hey guys, I've got an A18 that has run flawlessly for the first 10K miles, but is now missing at speeds above 40 mph or so. I thoought it was a fuel problem, but I've run that system through without finding anything. I have been losing my low beam headlight at night and replacing the bulb did not help. Today, when I got off the bike, I left it running and noticed that mt Brake! LED taillight was constantly cycling, as if I were braking. The brakes are adjusted properly. I have a bunch of the electrical upgrades on my bike: the one for a stronger headlight voltage, the new-style fuse kit, etc. My battery is an Oddysey and it's probably five years old. I'm beginning to think my problem is electrical rather than fuel. Any ideas as to where to start looking? TIA. Randy

[Rick McCauley]

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) If you go to a Kawasaki dealer, and buy a Kawasaki chain, you have purchased an OEM product. If you ask the dealer to get you a EK, or Dunghua chain, you have purchased an aftermarket product. Kawasaki air filter - OEM K&N air filter - aftermarket....... and so on Rick A17

--- On Thu, 7/16/09, eddiebmauri wrote: From: eddiebmauri Subject: [DSN_KLR650] OEM What is it? Defined? To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, July 16, 2009, 9:13 AM Ya'll, I hate to sound dumb, but what does OEM stand for? Thanks. Eddie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]