[dsn_klr650] countershaft and rear sprocket remove and replacem

[Don Marr]

I would like to apologize first if this isn't the proper time and/or place to post for sale adds. I don't own a fire proof suit, so please no flames, just inform me of the right way. Almost a year ago my 2004 KLR650 A-18 was stolen. I am now resigned to the fact that even if I get it back it will not be worth the effort to repair it. Therefore I have the following items for sale. Owners Manual Tips and Practice Guide for the Off Highway Motorcycle Clymer Kawasaki KLR650, 1987-2003 Original Tool Kit, including the box, but minus the plastic case (it died). The 24 mm wrench is slightly bent, but is serviceable. 3 WIX Oil Filters with gasket sets 24951 Tires Kenda 270 5.10-18, 3.25-21 Tubes Dunlop 4.00/4.24/5-18, and Chen Shin 3.25/3.50-21 Large Motorcycle Cover, no damage, always waited for bike to cool before putting it on For pictures go to: http://picasaweb.google.com/globalmedic/KLR650Stuff Let me know if you are interested: dmarr AT ifriendly DOT com

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Don Marr" wrote:

> > I would like to apologize first if this isn't the proper time

and/or

> place to post for sale adds. I don't own a fire proof suit, so > please no flames, just inform me of the right way. > > Almost a year ago my 2004 KLR650 A-18 was stolen. I am now

resigned

> to the fact that even if I get it back it will not be worth the > effort to repair it. Therefore I have the following items for sale. > > Owners Manual > Tips and Practice Guide for the Off Highway Motorcycle > Clymer Kawasaki KLR650, 1987-2003 > > Original Tool Kit, including the box, but minus the plastic case

(it

> died). The 24 mm wrench is slightly bent, but is serviceable. > > 3 WIX Oil Filters with gasket sets 24951 > > Tires Kenda 270 5.10-18, 3.25-21 > > Tubes Dunlop 4.00/4.24/5-18, and Chen Shin 3.25/3.50-21 > > Large Motorcycle Cover, no damage, always waited for bike to cool > before putting it on > > For pictures go to: > > http://picasaweb.google.com/globalmedic/KLR650Stuff > > Let me know if you are interested: > > dmarr AT ifriendly DOT com >

Hello Don, Reading your ad--and the loss of your bike makes me sick at my stomach. Why we have to live 'chained and barred' in a free society-- is such a sad commentary on who we have become. Posting your location and phone number would help to push your sale along as well. shrug. Just reading your note--is the rear tire really an 18" tire/tube? My bike is a 17", etc. In a related note: It would be helpful to the list to share the circumstances. Maybe someone would benefit from your experience. I know I would. Would also like to know how your insurance company treated you...if it were insured, and if you would recommend them, based on this experience. What did you learn, and what would you do different? Give us names.... as well as how the police investigation was conducted; helpful, useful, etc. When I came on the list 4 years ago, there seemed to be a rash, or at least a significant discussion about how many KLR's were being stolen in the Big Apple City...referred to as a 'perfect hoodlum' bike...almost as though it were a challenge to find a KLR, steal it, and then they rode it like they stole it...cough, because they did. My weak corporate memory indicates not many of the bikes were recovered undamaged--if at all, and very few perps were ever prosecuted. OMMV =Others memory my vary. Hope it all goes well for you, and I hope they find the scum bags that took your bike. NOW, to stir the annual NKLR pot, cough, Just an annecdotal question; Do they have a concealed carry law in the state where you live and in the state where the bike was stolen? And/Or has the 'state' taken away your right to protect your property? revmaaatin.

[Mike Hansen]

John, You sure did make a simple repair sound difficult. Your going to scare the Randy from Burbank !!! Randy, Easy job. no worries. re-use all your nuts. use BLUE locktite if you want to. Not needed , as the nuts are lock nuts anyways and the engine nut has a washer that you fold over to "lock" it into place. -Mike- ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Rick McCauley To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 6:16:56 AM Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement May I ask why it can't be re-used Rick (drowning in Illinois) A17

--- On Tue, 4/28/09, John Biccum wrote: From: John Biccum Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement To: "'Randall Marbach'" , "'KLR Group'" Date: Tuesday, April 28, 2009, 9:35 PM Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove the countershaft nut. Hold the rear brake on to prevent the wheel from turning as you work the nut. Twice I have sheared off the studs when replacing the driven sprocket and using a torque wrench to drive the nuts down. Maybe the factory torque is too high or the studs they use are poor quality. The broken stud can be removed with two nuts and a wrench. The studs are hard to find locally. I found that I could use a hex head bolt installed into the stud location then cut off the head with a hacksaw. Now I use only a box end wrench to install the nuts and I tighten then just enough . I also use locktite, I found that Kawasaki parts outlast the aftermarket parts in both the drive and driven sprocket locations. The OEM drive sprocket also vibrates less than the aftermarket parts, I suspect due to its rubber cladding. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [mailto:DSN_ KLR650@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of Randall Marbach Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 15:31 To: KLR Group Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement Hi All I am about to replace my countershaft and rear sprockets and chain for the first time. I have 17K miles on the originals using WD40 and they still look OK... but I want to do this for preventative reasons. Any tips/tricks or techniques for removing the countershaft sprocket? How about for the rear sprocket? TIA Randy from Burbank [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]