I haven't tried Ron's technique, but I was able to verify that the
butt-to-seat method works on the KLR.
I tackled a trail I shouldn't have and the KLR tossed me off "a few"
times. Even up hill, with the bike above me and on a gravelly slope,
I was able to hoist her up... repeatedly. Yeah, the first foot or so
takes some effort, but my wife (120 wet) could probably manage it if
she had to.
Tips I learned...
- Make sure the bike is in gear before it tosses you off.
- Turn off the petcock if you can reach it. The K bleeds gas and
floods quickly when not pointed the right way up.
- Turn handlebars all the way to the stop... The downside grip should
be closest to the tank.
- Worry about getting the back tire on the ground first, the front will roll.
- The KLR is tall, you might have to reposition yourself slightly once
you have it a little over halfway up.
- Crash/Nerf bars help, but they aren't foolproof.
- Wipe off all traces of battery acid on the left side as soon as
possible... if you do it later, it won't be acid any more, just paint.
- If you're on a gravelly hill, don't pull the clutch lever in when
you're done righting the K... unless you want to practice doing it
again.
--Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes
Springfield, VA
2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS - "Blue Bayou"
2006 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - "Teflon"
2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - It's here, but it hasn't earned a name yet.
http://smthng.info
"If I'd known it was harmless, I would have killed it myself."
On Sat, Aug 9, 2008 at 10:32 AM, Ron and Brenda Moorhouse
wrote:
> That seems like an awful lot of steps and tecnique to master. I have found this works (similar but simpler): stand next to tank, bars all the way back to you, good footing; bike in gear; both hands on hand grip; pull up and forward and it will pop up; even loaded down with full tools, camp gear, etc. And, I am no weight lifter. Experiment.
> Ron Moorhouse
> Modesto, CA