emergency tire repair

[Ralph D]

I have never overreved the motor The previous couple days I changed out tha tank, shrouds engine/tank guards and upgraded the headlight harness. I changed the parts because a guy in a full size truck got his cast stuck inbetween the gas and brakes and plowed into my bike and plowed it across the parking lot in May. They straightened the handlebase during the crash estimate so I only replaced the rear blinkers because one was ripped off. And I just received all parts and repalced them. on the initial test ride down the road to the bank before they closed. I realized that I had no tach readings. A block from the bank I realized that I had no headlight. I pulled into the bank a block away and after checking I saw that I had no headlight, taillight or brake light. I turned the bike off and took care of business before they closed. When I tried to leave I had no power to anything, not even a neutral light. I trailered my bike the couple miles home. When I got home my battery was a litle weak so I put my 3 amp charger on it. The RV parks resident drunk stopped by and asked what was happening. I told him that I trailered the bike home and am charging the battery and need to see what is wrong. He asks whats this pointing at the battery tender that was pjlugged in. I said charger and when he asked what the two plugs next to the new battery tender box was. It was wo short plugs for the battery tender, one had a cigerette lighter and teh other had jumper cable connections on it. I said they came with the charger but were too short for any good and that I would add 12 feet of wire to them. My phone rang and I went inside. When I came out he was standing next to my bike had already disconnected the battery tender, plugged in the jumper cable style plug and was connecting a jumper box to the battery tender. There was a little puff of white smoke around the battery tender. I ran the two steps and disconnected it. I looked and saw that the terminals were not crossed. I scolded and sent his butt away. I am saying this because it will give complete insight and show a possible way the electrical system has been compromised. I plugged in the tender again and it was charged within a short time. I pulled the seat and the 20 amp fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and the bike started right up. So I put it together added a couple other accessories that could not effect the electrical system and called it a night. The next day I went for a couple short rides down the road and it seemed fine. Then I went up to my mothers and on the way there I would be holding around 60 mph and when I would try to go 65 the tach would start jumping around. When I would get inbetween 4 to 5,000 rpm the tach would jump up to 6,7 and 8,000 rpm without my motor changing more that 100 rpm. When I tried to hold at 65 the tach would jump to 8 and even 9,000 rpm and start cutting out like the motor had a rev limiter that was running off of the tach only. Every time the tach would jump I would back off of the throttle. I would go from steady throttle to slowing down. On the way back home it became much worse and that was when I was down to 40 mph on the side of the freeway trying to make it to the next off ramp. I pulled over when there was room, that was when the bike died and would not start again. I trailered the bike home and made my first post. Thanks for the input NO i did not over rev the motor. no I do not ahve a stripped sprocket I included that because that was some responsed I received. Yes I am mechanically inclined and no I am not a technician. I will start morotcycle mechanic school within a year just for myself and friends bikes.

[Mike Frey]

I haven't seen anyone asking a more simple question: are you sure the clutch is (or was) not slipping? Many highly experienced people have become fooled by their bikes when the clutch slips.The engine revs will follow the tach. You did note that engine RPMs didn't vary by more than 100, but at 65 mph, the sound of the wind and the engine can mask the sound of runaway engine RPMs. A quick and easy test of the clutch can be accomplished by placing the front wheel against an object like a concrete or brick wall, and in 2nd gear, let the clutch out slowly as if you intend to break through the wall. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, it's the clutch. NOTE: only try this test once, if you keep repeating it and your clutch is actually OK, it will be "not OK" before long. Mike Ralph D wrote:

> > The next day I went for a couple short rides down the road and > it seemed fine. Then I went up to my mothers and on the way there I > would be holding around 60 mph and when I would try to go 65 the > tach would start jumping around. When I would get inbetween 4 to > 5,000 rpm the tach would jump up to 6,7 and 8,000 rpm without my > motor changing more that 100 rpm. When I tried to hold at 65 the tach > would jump to 8 and even 9,000 rpm and start cutting out like the > motor had a rev limiter that was running off of the tach only. Every > time the tach would jump I would back off of the throttle. I would go > from steady throttle to slowing down. On the way back home it became > much worse and that was when I was down to 40 mph on the side of the > freeway trying to make it to the next off ramp. I pulled over when > there was room, that was when the bike died and would not start again. > I trailered the bike home and made my first post. > > > >

[Wayne Blackburn]

You may want to check your tach cable. Iv'e heard of speedo cables having the same effect As far as the engine not running it sounds like ignition. I dont think the two issues are related

--- On Mon, 7/7/08, Mike Frey wrote: From: Mike Frey Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] additional data on KLR brakdown? To: "Ralph D" Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, July 7, 2008, 3:31 PM I haven't seen anyone asking a more simple question: are you sure the clutch is (or was) not slipping? Many highly experienced people have become fooled by their bikes when the clutch slips.The engine revs will follow the tach. You did note that engine RPMs didn't vary by more than 100, but at 65 mph, the sound of the wind and the engine can mask the sound of runaway engine RPMs. A quick and easy test of the clutch can be accomplished by placing the front wheel against an object like a concrete or brick wall, and in 2nd gear, let the clutch out slowly as if you intend to break through the wall. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, it's the clutch. NOTE: only try this test once, if you keep repeating it and your clutch is actually OK, it will be "not OK" before long. Mike Ralph D wrote: > > The next day I went for a couple short rides down the road and > it seemed fine. Then I went up to my mothers and on the way there I > would be holding around 60 mph and when I would try to go 65 the > tach would start jumping around. When I would get inbetween 4 to > 5,000 rpm the tach would jump up to 6,7 and 8,000 rpm without my > motor changing more that 100 rpm. When I tried to hold at 65 the tach > would jump to 8 and even 9,000 rpm and start cutting out like the > motor had a rev limiter that was running off of the tach only. Every > time the tach would jump I would back off of the throttle. I would go > from steady throttle to slowing down. On the way back home it became > much worse and that was when I was down to 40 mph on the side of the > freeway trying to make it to the next off ramp. I pulled over when > there was room, that was when the bike died and would not start again. > I trailered the bike home and made my first post. > > > >

[Skypilot]

going forward, always do your maintenance yourself, tires included, with the tools you carry onboard. This way you learn what you need that you dont have on board. I have been doing this for many years now and it has saved my butt a few times Skypilot@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]