fork oil level w/ progressive springs

DSN_KLR650
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Michael
Posts: 111
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:21 am

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by Michael » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:33 pm

Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off either Thursday or Friday. So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael

D Critchley
Posts: 467
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 10:45 am

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by D Critchley » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:48 pm

Congrats., You have the best colour for reliability, speed, maneuverability, and invisibility to radar as far as I know. I have heard rumours that this colour is an irresistible chick magnet too. Let us know how you make out. DC Michael wrote:
> > Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in > stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off either > Thursday or Friday. > > So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael > >
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by Jeff Saline » Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:03 am

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 04:33:34 -0000 "Michael" writes:
> Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in > stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off > either > Thursday or Friday. > > So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael
<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Michael, Congratulations. I suggest the next stop is over at www.klr650.net and take a look at the 2008 section. It has threads about known problems and issues, errors in the manuals and other stuff that is 2008 specific. At the dealer I would suggest you have the salesman show you how to check the oil. The bike should be vertical and the oil should be over the top of the sight glass. Then monitor the oil level and do not accept the dealer telling you that using a quart in 700 miles is normal. It's not on a properly functioning engine. Also have the dealer adjust your preload on the rear shock a few times. That's a known weak point. Better to have them break it there than you at home and have to take it back. Many folks are also reporting hard starting when cold. So touch the engine to make sure it's the same temp as the metal at the rear of the bike (that's just a reference to see if the engine is warm or not) and then have the dealer start the bike for you. It should start with almost no cranking and no use of the throttle. If it's hard starting it may be the compression release on the end of the exhaust cam shaft. I'm not sure what the problem is but you shouldn't have to hope the bike starts for you. I think some folks have also had a problem with the coil wire rubbing on the valve cover and causing a no run condition. Catch that before it happens to you. Look closely as the seat seams to make sure they aren't ripped yet. When they do tear out take it back to have the seat replaced under warranty. Be really careful of the turn signal mounts as they are breaking with a light touch. Some guys have reported no problem getting them replaced under warranty. Best to check them with a physical touch before you take delivery. That's all that pops into my head at this late hour. I think over all it's getting some really good comments and folks are very happy with performance and overall set up. Oh, also get in touch with a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course schedule and get signed up right away. The course may teach you something that will save your life and you may also qualify for a discount on your bike insurance. Wear all the gear all the time and absolutely always wear gloves. When you fall off even at a slow speed you'll put your hands out to protect your body. The gloves will protect your hands. Oh, just before I press send... find out where the fuses are located and have the salesman show them to you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Jon Neet
Posts: 51
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 3:51 pm

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by Jon Neet » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:25 am

Mine is a 2005 and uses zero measureable oil between changes. I change at 1000 miles in the winter, and 2000 in warmer seasons.This is due to a little bit of the milky looking deposit in the winter because my commute is only 7.5 miles each way-so the oil doesn't get up to temp.Even in the summer with 2000 mile changes, it uses no oil.My KLR is maybe the best starting motorcycle I've owned over a 45 year riding span and over twenty different bikes.In the cold it start right up and is rideable and runs well with no choke almost right away.As an aside, I just got my best gas mileage to date at last night fill-thats 62.3 miles per US gallon.Thats commuting,includes some freeway riding etc. Enjoy your new KLR!! Jon in Puyallup. --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by Jeff Saline » Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:27 pm

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 09:25:42 -0700 (PDT) Jon Neet writes:
> Mine is a 2005 and uses zero measureable oil between changes. I > change at 1000 miles in the winter, and 2000 in warmer seasons.This > is due to a little bit of the milky looking deposit in the winter > because my commute is only 7.5 miles each way-so the oil doesn't get > up to temp.Even in the summer with 2000 mile changes, it uses no > oil.My KLR is maybe the best starting motorcycle I've owned over a > 45 year riding span and over twenty different bikes.In the cold it > start right up and is rideable and runs well with no choke almost > right away.As an aside, I just got my best gas mileage to date at > last night fill-thats 62.3 miles per US gallon.Thats > commuting,includes some freeway riding etc. > > Enjoy your new KLR!! > Jon in Puyallup.
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Jon, I think you nailed the difference when you said you have a 2005. The 2008s are known to have a few issues with some burning lots of oil. I seem to recall recently hearing about a dealer telling one owner a quart in 700 miles is normal. Same thing with the cold start issues. The earlier bikes are known to start easily when cold. The 2008s sometimes have issues. I'm pretty confident in saying your non oil use issues are the norm for pre 2008 KLR650s. This morning I met a guy that has had a 2008 for about 6 months. I asked about cold starting and oil use and he has zero issues at the 2,500 smile point. He also doesn't have issues with the turn signals mounts breaking (although I took a look at the design and can see how they'd snap easily), the rear shock preload adjuster works fine he said and the seat seams aren't tearing. He is very happy with his bike. I think we'll be having a doohickey party at my shop in the next month or so as another guy the meeting also wants to change his on a 2003 with about 7,000 miles and two other guys I know both want to do theirs too. You are getting some really nice fuel economy. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Arden Kysely
Posts: 1578
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2001 8:18 am

ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)

Post by Arden Kysely » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:14 am

Jeff's given you some good info. I'll just add that if it was my new bike, I'd buy a new filter and a gallon of Kawi 10W-40 dino oil (so there's no warranty questions) and change the oil after 100-200 miles. Enjoy your new bike! __Arden
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" wrote: > > Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in > stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off either > Thursday or Friday. > > So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael >

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

fork oil level w/ progressive springs

Post by Jeff Saline » Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:51 pm

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 23:56:48 -0000 "Stuart Martin" writes:
> I noticed that the progressive springs are longer, thicker, and > weigh > ~ 0.5 lbs more than the standard springs in my A14. The manual says > to > fill the compressed fork to 190 mm from the top, but I was > thinking > that with the progressive spring, wouldn't I want to add less oil > (i.e > > 190 mm) since the progressive spring will displace more fluid > volume > than the standard spring? Any comments and/or suggestions would be > appreciated. Thanks. > > Stu
<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Stu, I'll vote for staying with the 190mm measurement. That's based on the design of the fork guts and set for the correct air spring. I think the most important part is to make sure both sides are the same. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

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