progressive rear shock combo

[Arden Kysely]

Yesterday as I left work, my KLR wouldn't start. Neutral light came on when I turned the key. When I pulled in the clutch and hit the starter button, there was a little click and the neutral light and headlights went out. I bypassed both the clutch and sidestand interlocks by removing the relay a few years ago (and since used that relay to replace a dead fan relay). I checked the fuse, thankfully relocated to the sidestand interlock cover and converted to ATO-type. It looked fine. There's a hill available, so I bump started it (third gear worked best) and rode home without issue. I turned it off, then back on, and it started OK. The battery showed 12.46 volts at my battery tender connection. Let it sit awhile, then started it again OK. This morning: same problem, less time to mess with it, and no hill. I left it home and rode the DR-Z in. My next step is to change out the fuse 'just in case.' Is there such a thing as an intermittent ATO fuse? What else can I check? Would a loose ground on the starter kill the neutral light and head light? TIA, __Arden

[stevedyer@cox.net]

I had the exact symptoms right after installing a new AGM battery a few weeks ago. Went for a ride in the boonies the next day and thoroughly splashed and muddied up the KLR during a couple of water crossings. Needing to swap tires a few days later, I violated a KLR rule and washed off the dried mud and sand with the garden hose. Next time I tried to fire it up the KLR gave me the no-start, click, lights out routine just as you described. Knowing the battery terminals were spotless from the recent battery install I checked the fuses but found them all intact. Only after remembering the wet ride and the following bike bath did I reconsider the battery terminals and on checking found a fair amount of grunge had worked its way into the terminal assemblies and dried - from the ride or the wash is not clear. A quick clean and reconnect of the terminals and the KLR hasn't misbehaved since. Steve A13 ---- Arden Kysely wrote: Yesterday as I left work, my KLR wouldn't start. Neutral light came on when I turned the key. When I pulled in the clutch and hit the starter button, there was a little click and the neutral light and headlights went out.

[Arden Kysely]

Thanks, Steve. I haven't mudded it up or washed it lately, but it makes sense that a complete electrical outage would start at the battery. Since I installed an AGM battery a couple years ago I've gotten pretty lax about popping the seat and checking it. I'll do that as soon as I get home. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > > I had the exact symptoms right after installing a new AGM battery a few weeks ago. Went for a ride in the boonies the next day and thoroughly splashed and muddied up the KLR during a couple of water crossings. Needing to swap tires a few days later, I violated a KLR rule and washed off the dried mud and sand with the garden hose. Next time I tried to fire it up the KLR gave me the no-start, click, lights out routine just as you described. Knowing the battery terminals were spotless from the recent battery install I checked the fuses but found them all intact. Only after remembering the wet ride and the following bike bath did I reconsider the battery terminals and on checking found a fair amount of grunge had worked its way into the terminal assemblies and dried - from the ride or the wash is not clear. A quick clean and reconnect of the terminals and the KLR hasn't misbehaved since. > > Steve > A13 > > ---- Arden Kysely wrote: > Yesterday as I left work, my KLR wouldn't start. Neutral light came > on when I turned the key. When I pulled in the clutch and hit the > starter button, there was a little click and the neutral light and > headlights went out. >

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Arden Kysely" wrote:

> > Yesterday as I left work, my KLR wouldn't start. Neutral light came > on when I turned the key. When I pulled in the clutch and hit the > starter button, there was a little click and the neutral light and > headlights went out. > > I bypassed both the clutch and sidestand interlocks by removing the > relay a few years ago (and since used that relay to replace a dead > fan relay). > > I checked the fuse, thankfully relocated to the sidestand interlock > cover and converted to ATO-type. It looked fine. There's a hill > available, so I bump started it (third gear worked best) and rode > home without issue. I turned it off, then back on, and it started OK. > The battery showed 12.46 volts at my battery tender connection. Let > it sit awhile, then started it again OK. > > This morning: same problem, less time to mess with it, and no hill. I > left it home and rode the DR-Z in. > > My next step is to change out the fuse 'just in case.' Is there such > a thing as an intermittent ATO fuse? What else can I check? Would a > loose ground on the starter kill the neutral light and head light? >

I'd look for a loose connection at the battery or at the starter relay.

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hill_buster" wrote:

> > My stock shock with an upgraded spring is leaking oil. I am presently > looking at the progressive 420 series (with 500/560 spring) as a > replacement. > > Other than price I would like to get some feedback on the above > mentioned combo ie does it require frequent repairs, do repairs take > long etc... > > Bike is used for long trips with less than 1% in serious mud. >

Before I'd pay a lot of dough for a Progressive shock, I'd first consider rebuilding the stock one: http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html If I didn't feel like doing that i'd consider one from Works or Cogent Dynamics.