I just got a note from Professor Jim, and he confirmed the higher output
of later model 650s. Info comes from the electrical specs in the
manual: The 2001/2002 models (and perhaps others) put out 3 more amps
than the older ones. The total is 17A at 7000 rpm, which is also below
redline (unlike the old rating!).
The only difference he sees partswise is the rotor, so they must have
gone to stronger magnets. Unless there was a running change in the
stator, and they just used the same p/n.
Devon: Jim also had some comments on the tach light. He noted that the
same wire that goes to the tach goes to the primary side of the coil,
and older CDI systems fed several hundred volts to the coil. 1) be
careful checking it out and 2) you might want to use the crank trigger
for an input instead.
Jim has also checked out his wiring diagram, and it still looks like a
match for later KLRs.
Krokko
--
Dr. J. Christopher Krok
John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel
Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125
oil filter cover question
-
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:12 pm
oil filter cover question
Garrett,
It sounds like you have received some great responses. One caution that I
will give you that no one has yet mentioned. Probably because it seems
obvious, but do NOT attempt to pry the cover off with a screwdriver or
anything else. It really just takes alot of wiggling. Also as mentioned, oil
*shouldn't* come out if you use your side stand. That is if the bike is
cold. If you let it drain a good long time. That's how I do it. I did try a
method someone recommended. They said make sure your engine is warm and then
immediately drain the oil. That way everything in the oil by way of
impurities is suspended and will come out. Maybe so, but if you try that and
remove the side cover, you will have a bit of a mess to clean up. At least I
did. Good luck!
Don+
On Fri, Apr 11, 2008 at 9:42 PM, Garrett Bennett
wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> I've got an 08 and i changed the oil, and I can take out the screws > holding on the oil filter cover but the cover wont come off it has alot of > resistence. > Is this normal should I just rip it off with plyers? > Garrett > Bayonne nj > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >
-
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:01 am
electrical system
Hello!! I need some assistance please. I own a 2007 KLR650.
I started my ride to work this morning on it and 1/2 mile down the road
the engine seemed to bog down a bit. I assumed it had something to do
with the temperature(24 Deg.F) I stopped, turned the choke back on and
took off again. 2 miles later, the headlight,gauge lights and taillights
shut off. I still had brakelights and turnsignals and the engine ran
fine after that initial bog down. Does anyone know if the low air temp.
could have contributed to this? Also, are the lights going out(fuse??)
and the bog down related? Please relay any similar experience and/or
knowledge regarding this email.
Thanks,
Tim
-
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 2:22 pm
electrical system
There are two fuses under the seat, right on top of the battery. Check
these. Don R100, A6F
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Timothy" wrote: > > Hello!! I need some assistance please. I own a 2007 KLR650. > I started my ride to work this morning on it and 1/2 mile down the road > the engine seemed to bog down a bit. I assumed it had something to do > with the temperature(24 Deg.F) I stopped, turned the choke back on and > took off again. 2 miles later, the headlight,gauge lights and taillights > shut off. I still had brakelights and turnsignals and the engine ran > fine after that initial bog down. Does anyone know if the low air temp. > could have contributed to this? Also, are the lights going out(fuse??) > and the bog down related? Please relay any similar experience and/or > knowledge regarding this email. > Thanks, > Tim >
-
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:55 am
electrical system
On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 04:24:20PM -0000, Spike55 wrote:
...and clean, tighten and grease the battery connections. Michael -- "Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you fall into an open manhole and die." -- Mel Brooks San Francisco, CA> There are two fuses under the seat, right on top of the battery. Check > these. Don R100, A6F
-
- Posts: 1251
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 2:52 pm
electrical system
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Timothy" wrote:
Your headlight fuse has blown. It most frequently fails when the high beam switch pauses between positions, lighting both beams of the headlight. I am trying without success to come up with some condition caused by low temp alone that could blow a fuse. Where do you live? Frost could conceivably create a short, particularly if in salt sea air. The bog could have been caused by moisture contamination of the float bowl, or by carb icing. Once your engine came fully up to temp, the problem melted away. So the fuse and the bog might be related to the extent hat they are caused by the same conditions, but I think it's a better bet that you bumped your high beam switch.> > Hello!! I need some assistance please. I own a 2007 KLR650. > I started my ride to work this morning on it and 1/2 mile down the road > the engine seemed to bog down a bit. I assumed it had something to do > with the temperature(24 Deg.F) I stopped, turned the choke back on and > took off again. 2 miles later, the headlight,gauge lights and taillights > shut off. I still had brakelights and turnsignals and the engine ran > fine after that initial bog down. Does anyone know if the low air temp. > could have contributed to this? Also, are the lights going out(fuse??) > and the bog down related? Please relay any similar experience and/or > knowledge regarding this email.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests