valve adjustment faux paux?

[mikeypep]

OK boys and girls, I've got my complete Tengai plastics to transform my KLR into a custom beauty. The plastics is compliments of Tom in GA; thanks Tom. Tom did a pretty good job busting up the plastics. I'd going to repair it but am wondering if any of you KLRista can tell me what will actually bond to this plastic? Its not the same as the regular KLR stuff, much more brittle. I don't think fiberglass bonds to it, it just sort of sticks and will re-crack. I want to actually bond it, fill the cracks and sand it smooth. I'm looking at the "Plastix" kit that someone recommended.

[Dave Svoboda]

At 04:01 PM 3/27/2008, mikeypep wrote:

>what will actually bond to this plastic? Its not the same as the >regular KLR stuff, much more brittle. I don't think fiberglass bonds to >it, it just sort of sticks and will re-crack. I want to actually bond >it, fill the cracks and sand it smooth. I'm looking at the "Plastix" >kit that someone recommended.

If it's the same stuff as the fairing of the Kawi Concours, it's ABS plastic, and responds well to hardware-store ABS conditioner and cement. Use some drywall fiberglass on the inside, to reinforce it. Plastex repair kits are magic for gaps, missing tabs, and such. I have a HF plastic welder, but I've never got it to work as well as the above. - Dave Svoboda, Sandy Eggo

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 17:45:05 -0000 "bali_blu" writes:

> Hi Listers, > > My name is Roger, and I have a motorcycle problem. Methinks in a > good > way > > I lurk. > Everyday. > > Now for the problem I need help with. > > I have an '07 KLR with 7017 miles. I followed the factory > recommended > break in and had its 500 mile service done "professionally". Since > then, I have done regular maintenance myself: oil changes every > 1500-2000 miles, adjust the doohickey (not upgraded, yet), etc., > and > taken generally good care of it. It has run flawlessly since day > one > and BTW has NEVER burned a drop of oil (knocking on wood). > > This week I am attempting the first valve check/adjustment. > > I followed the procedure as described at: > www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html > > All went as planned. > I installed the new shims where necessary. (Note: My local dealer > swapped the ones I needed for the ones that came out of the bike, > no > charge!). > > I was heading out of the woods. Or so I thought. > > I torqued the cam caps*, then I was going to check the valve > clearances again to make sure all was right. > > FIRST BUMMER- while turning the engine with the wrench to get to > TDC > again, I went clockwise for 1/4-1/2 an inch before I realized that > was > a "bad" thing (page 7, step 18, red letters and all). I then > proceeded > counter-clockwise until TDC. Then, SECOND BUMMER- When I got it to > TDC > I realized that I had not re-installed the Cam Chain tensioner bolt > beforehand! > > How bad did I mess things up? > Can I proceed? > From what point? > Can I "save" and "reboot"? > > *-My torque wrench was too tall to fit on the right side cam cap > bolts > so I "guessed" with a socket. Is this a critical issue? > > OK. > Waiting for the replies. > Staying calm. > Deep breaths. > > > Thanks, > Roger

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Roger, It'll probably be fine. I did the same thing last year when I got in a rush working with a guy doing his first valve adjustment. Here's what I suggest you consider doing. - Install the cam chain tensioner. - Gently rotate the engine to get it to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. I think the mark you're looking for on the rotor in the left side case upper hole is a T. - Check the cams like you did when you did the valve check and see if the arrows are horizontal. ** If both are horizontal at the edge of the top of the head the chain didn't skip a tooth and you're back to operation as normal. ** If one or both cams are out of time you'll have to move the chain to get them back where they're supposed to be. I was able to remove the cam chain tensioner and then work the cam chain back and up so I had some slack and could work it over the one cam gear where it had slipped. It wasn't easy but only took about 3-5 minutes. Once the cams are back in time install the cam chain tensioner and rotate the engine and check the valve clearances and cam timing. Remember you have to turn the crankshaft two turns to get the cams turned one time. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 11:01 PM +0000 3/27/08, mikeypep wrote:

>OK boys and girls, I've got my complete Tengai plastics to transform my >KLR into a custom beauty. The plastics is compliments of Tom in GA; >thanks Tom. Tom did a pretty good job busting up the plastics. I'd >going to repair it but am wondering if any of you KLRista can tell me >what will actually bond to this plastic? Its not the same as the >regular KLR stuff, much more brittle. I don't think fiberglass bonds to >it, it just sort of sticks and will re-crack. I want to actually bond >it, fill the cracks and sand it smooth. I'm looking at the "Plastix" >kit that someone recommended.

The fairing is ABS plastic. Epoxies and GRE will work well if proper surface prep is done and the right epoxies are chosen (long cure times work better, but even Bondo can be used to fill minor gaps). Best results are accomplished by solvent welding with chlorinated methanes (dichloromethane, chloroform, or carbon tetrachloride). Reinforce by solvent welding ABS sheet behind the repaired sections. You can even dissolve ABS in the solvent to make a goo with which you can impregnate fiberglass mat and bond to the ABS fairing. I'm a pro at this. I killed a deer with my Tengai. I've seen pix of (and made an offer on) the fairing you're getting. It's pretty messed up, so forget about trying to match the paint. Pick a nice color and respray the whole thing. Good luck! Mark