and now for the other half of the oil disscussion

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote

> The only thing I'll add is that I bought one of each brand of filter > available for the KLR (an OEM Kawasaki 16099-004, a Wix 24951, a NAPA > Gold 4951, a Fram CH6070, a K&N Performance Gold KN-123, and an EMGO > 10-30000).

You forgot about the HiFlo HF123 which is also available for cheap from pretty much every motorcycle accessory shop in this area (south San Francisco Bay). I've looked at the OEM, the HiFlo, and the EMGO, and found no real difference between them upon disassembly after an oil change other than the color of the media (yellow, red, white). I have examples of all three in my garage (actually, probably just the OEM and EMGO at the moment, since I tend to buy OEM filters, o-rings, and aluminum drain plug washers to "fill out" orders from Ron Ayers when buying something else that isn't expensive enough to justify shipping all the way from North Carolina). Regarding the o-ring, I change it out every few oil changes when the old o-ring looks like it might be getting crushed down and less flexible. Otherwise I don't bother. I've never actually had a leak from the oil filter area no matter how crushed-down the old o-ring was looking, so I can't say how necessary this is, just that it's what I personally do for my own peace of mind.

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Just as life seemed a bit hum drum, boom, it became exciting and interesting again! You Sherlock Holmes of electricity, plse give me your insights. I had problems starting, so I changed the battery, for a closed type acid battery. Great, everything ok for a couple of weeks, starting instantanously, good lights, etc. Day after day. So this morning I rode off, after starting easily, and after half an hour I parked the bike, and an hour or so later, I started the bike, zoom vrooom, right away. Ten minutes later I stopped by a friend s house, and when I wanted to ride away, battery way low. We jumped started pushing the darn thing, at home I measured 8,6 volts. It did not load much during the 20 min ride. Yes Sir, fuses ok! How can this be, a new battery, working ok for a few weeks, and all of a sudden, no power? According to Clymer s manual, there is no drain on the battery when parked, and all seemed perfect. I am thinking about putting a switch between the headlight and the power supply, so this will not be a drain when I am driving in the day. Still is a mystery as to why all of a sudden the battery seems to lose it. When it had been working on a daily basis for three weeks or so perfectly. right on, Watson. Now the other thing that seems to make my life more bearable, no, not my wife, yes, besides the small dram of Scotch, is the issue with the rear shock spring. After installing the one inch lowering links, I found there was a need for a stiffer spring. So, I am about to order a 500-560 spring from Fred, but still have no clue about how to install it, because and I quote from the Clymers: Because of the design of the shock absorber, a common spring compressor will NOT work in removing the spring. unquote. Also in the Kawa manual I read something about snap rings that cannot be re-used. So I am threading water here, and see what can be done. I heard a rumour about using hoseclamps instead of a spring compressor, but it is only a rumour. Like the end of the journey is not important, the journey is important, so is it with the KLR, nice to have it running, but solving its manifold mysteries is another story, and life-fulfilling. I will shut up now, but not for too long I am afraid. Jacostarica. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 9 Feb 2008 10:12:19 -0800 (PST) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> Just as life seemed a bit hum drum, boom, it became > exciting and interesting again! > You Sherlock Holmes of electricity, plse give me your > insights. > > I had problems starting, so I changed the battery, for > a closed type acid battery. Great, everything ok for > a couple of weeks, starting instantanously, good > lights, etc. Day after day. > > So this morning I rode off, after starting easily, and > after half an hour I parked the bike, and an hour or > so later, I started the bike, zoom vrooom, right away. > Ten minutes later I stopped by a friend s house, and > when I wanted to ride away, battery way low. We > jumped started pushing the darn thing, at home I > measured 8,6 volts. It did not load much during the > 20 min ride. Yes Sir, fuses ok! > > How can this be, a new battery, working ok for a few > weeks, and all of a sudden, no power? According to > Clymer s manual, there is no drain on the battery when > parked, and all seemed perfect. > > I am thinking about putting a switch between the > headlight and the power supply, so this will not be a > drain when I am driving in the day. > > Still is a mystery as to why all of a sudden the > battery seems to lose it. When it had been working on > a daily basis for three weeks or so perfectly. > > right on, Watson. > > Now the other thing that seems to make my life more > bearable, no, not my wife, yes, besides the small dram > of Scotch, is the issue with the rear shock spring. > After installing the one inch lowering links, I found > there was a need for a stiffer spring. > So, I am about to order a 500-560 spring from Fred, > but still have no clue about how to install it, > because and I quote from the Clymers: Because of the > design of the shock absorber, a common spring > compressor will NOT work in removing the spring. > unquote. > > Also in the Kawa manual I read something about snap > rings that cannot be re-used. So I am threading water > here, and see what can be done. I heard a rumour > about using hoseclamps instead of a spring compressor, > but it is only a rumour. Like the end of the journey > is not important, the journey is important, so is it > with the KLR, nice to have it running, but solving its > manifold mysteries is another story, and > life-fulfilling. I will shut up now, but not for > too long I am afraid. Jacostarica.

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Jake, I'm curious as to how you measured the battery voltage? I suggest you put the meter across the battery terminals with the key off and check the reading. Then do it again with the key on and check the reading. Then do it again and take the reading while cranking the starter. Finally, take one more reading with the engine running at 4,000 rpm. The first reading with the key off should be 12.65 volts or higher. Less probably means the battery needs charging. If the battery isn't fully charged the rest of the readings won't mean much. The next reading with the key on will probably drop the battery voltage by 0.1 or 0.2 or 0.3 volts. The reading when cranking the starter should remain above 9.6 volts. Anything less means you have a bad battery or your starter could be drawing excessive current. The final reading with the engine running at 4,000 rpm should be probably at least 13.8 volts but less than 14.5 volts. Maybe take this reading after returning from a ride. If you just start the bike, let it run for a few minutes to recharge the battery from the starting draw. Then take the reading. I seem to remember you pulled the starter a few months ago when you were working on the bike. Have you checked the cable to the starter and also the cables at the starter solenoid and the negative battery cable? Make sure they are tight and have a good connection with no corrosion. I'm guessing you'll get a lot more corrosion on your bike since you live near the ocean. For the shock spring it's not too hard to change. I suggest you find a car repair place that works on suspensions changing McPherson Struts and shocks etc. Bring the shock and the new spring and ask them if they have a spring compressor where you can change the spring. Martin Earl and I did that with his shock two years ago and it took about 5 minutes. I think I would stay away from the hose clamp idea unless that was a field expedient repair and just had to get done. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

Ditto what Jeff S said. Be on the lookout for corrosion. Jeff A20 In a message dated 2/9/2008 12:06:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, salinej1@... writes: On Sat, 9 Feb 2008 10:12:19 -0800 (PST) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> Just as life seemed a bit hum drum, boom, it became > exciting and interesting again! > You Sherlock Holmes of electricity, plse give me your > insights. > > I had problems starting, so I changed the battery, for > a closed type acid battery. Great, everything ok for > a couple of weeks, starting instantanously, good > lights, etc. Day after day. > > So this morning I rode off, after starting easily, and > after half an hour I parked the bike, and an hour or > so later, I started the bike, zoom vrooom, right away. > Ten minutes later I stopped by a friend s house, and > when I wanted to ride away, battery way low. We > jumped started pushing the darn thing, at home I > measured 8,6 volts. It did not load much during the > 20 min ride. Yes Sir, fuses ok! > > How can this be, a new battery, working ok for a few > weeks, and all of a sudden, no power? According to > Clymer s manual, there is no drain on the battery when > parked, and all seemed perfect. > > I am thinking about putting a switch between the > headlight and the power supply, so this will not be a > drain when I am driving in the day. > > Still is a mystery as to why all of a sudden the > battery seems to lose it. When it had been working on > a daily basis for three weeks or so perfectly. > > right on, Watson. > > Now the other thing that seems to make my life more > bearable, no, not my wife, yes, besides the small dram > of Scotch, is the issue with the rear shock spring. > After installing the one inch lowering links, I found > there was a need for a stiffer spring. > So, I am about to order a 500-560 spring from Fred, > but still have no clue about how to install it, > because and I quote from the Clymers: Because of the > design of the shock absorber, a common spring > compressor will NOT work in removing the spring. > unquote. > > Also in the Kawa manual I read something about snap > rings that cannot be re-used. So I am threading water > here, and see what can be done. I heard a rumour > about using hoseclamps instead of a spring compressor, > but it is only a rumour. Like the end of the journey > is not important, the journey is important, so is it > with the KLR, nice to have it running, but solving its > manifold mysteries is another story, and > life-fulfilling. I will shut up now, but not for > too long I am afraid. Jacostarica.

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Jake, I'm curious as to how you measured the battery voltage? I suggest you put the meter across the battery terminals with the key off and check the reading. Then do it again with the key on and check the reading. Then do it again and take the reading while cranking the starter. Finally, take one more reading with the engine running at 4,000 rpm. The first reading with the key off should be 12.65 volts or higher. Less probably means the battery needs charging. If the battery isn't fully charged the rest of the readings won't mean much. The next reading with the key on will probably drop the battery voltage by 0.1 or 0.2 or 0.3 volts. The reading when cranking the starter should remain above 9.6 volts. Anything less means you have a bad battery or your starter could be drawing excessive current. The final reading with the engine running at 4,000 rpm should be probably at least 13.8 volts but less than 14.5 volts. Maybe take this reading after returning from a ride. If you just start the bike, let it run for a few minutes to recharge the battery from the starting draw. Then take the reading. I seem to remember you pulled the starter a few months ago when you were working on the bike. Have you checked the cable to the starter and also the cables at the starter solenoid and the negative battery cable? Make sure they are tight and have a good connection with no corrosion. I'm guessing you'll get a lot more corrosion on your bike since you live near the ocean. For the shock spring it's not too hard to change. I suggest you find a car repair place that works on suspensions changing McPherson Struts and shocks etc. Bring the shock and the new spring and ask them if they have a spring compressor where you can change the spring. Martin Earl and I did that with his shock two years ago and it took about 5 minutes. I think I would stay away from the hose clamp idea unless that was a field expedient repair and just had to get done. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.Air The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ed Dobson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:

> > Just as life seemed a bit hum drum, boom, it became > exciting and interesting again! > You Sherlock Holmes of electricity, plse give me your > insights. > > I had problems starting, so I changed the battery, for > a closed type acid battery. Great, everything ok for > a couple of weeks, starting instantanously, good > lights, etc. Day after day. > > So this morning I rode off, after starting easily, and > after half an hour I parked the bike, and an hour or > so later, I started the bike, zoom vrooom, right away. > Ten minutes later I stopped by a friend s house, and > when I wanted to ride away, battery way low. We > jumped started pushing the darn thing, at home I > measured 8,6 volts. It did not load much during the > 20 min ride. Yes Sir, fuses ok! > > How can this be, a new battery, working ok for a few > weeks, and all of a sudden, no power? According to > Clymer s manual, there is no drain on the battery when > parked, and all seemed perfect. > > I am thinking about putting a switch between the > headlight and the power supply, so this will not be a > drain when I am driving in the day. > > Still is a mystery as to why all of a sudden the > battery seems to lose it. When it had been working on > a daily basis for three weeks or so perfectly. > > right on, Watson. > > Now the other thing that seems to make my life more > bearable, no, not my wife, yes, besides the small dram > of Scotch, is the issue with the rear shock spring. > After installing the one inch lowering links, I found > there was a need for a stiffer spring. > So, I am about to order a 500-560 spring from Fred, > but still have no clue about how to install it, > because and I quote from the Clymers: Because of the > design of the shock absorber, a common spring > compressor will NOT work in removing the spring. > unquote. > > Also in the Kawa manual I read something about snap > rings that cannot be re-used. So I am threading water > here, and see what can be done. I heard a rumour > about using hoseclamps instead of a spring compressor, > but it is only a rumour. Like the end of the journey > is not important, the journey is important, so is it > with the KLR, nice to have it running, but solving its > manifold mysteries is another story, and > life-fulfilling. I will shut up now, but not for > too long I am afraid. Jacostarica.

Jake, have you checked your oil viscosity? ED

[teamster1997]

My guess, voltage regulator. I had a similar problem, switched regulators and haven't had a problem since. Yes, the original was bad. Tim........ --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:

> > Just as life seemed a bit hum drum, boom, it became > exciting and interesting again! > You Sherlock Holmes of electricity, plse give me your > insights. > > I had problems starting, so I changed the battery, for > a closed type acid battery. Great, everything ok for > a couple of weeks, starting instantanously, good > lights, etc. Day after day. > > So this morning I rode off, after starting easily, and > after half an hour I parked the bike, and an hour or > so later, I started the bike, zoom vrooom, right away. > Ten minutes later I stopped by a friend s house, and > when I wanted to ride away, battery way low. We > jumped started pushing the darn thing, at home I > measured 8,6 volts. It did not load much during the > 20 min ride. Yes Sir, fuses ok! > > How can this be, a new battery, working ok for a few > weeks, and all of a sudden, no power? According to > Clymer s manual, there is no drain on the battery when > parked, and all seemed perfect. > > I am thinking about putting a switch between the > headlight and the power supply, so this will not be a > drain when I am driving in the day. > > Still is a mystery as to why all of a sudden the > battery seems to lose it. When it had been working on > a daily basis for three weeks or so perfectly. > > right on, Watson. > > Now the other thing that seems to make my life more > bearable, no, not my wife, yes, besides the small dram > of Scotch, is the issue with the rear shock spring. > After installing the one inch lowering links, I found > there was a need for a stiffer spring. > So, I am about to order a 500-560 spring from Fred, > but still have no clue about how to install it, > because and I quote from the Clymers: Because of the > design of the shock absorber, a common spring > compressor will NOT work in removing the spring. > unquote. > > Also in the Kawa manual I read something about snap > rings that cannot be re-used. So I am threading water > here, and see what can be done. I heard a rumour > about using hoseclamps instead of a spring compressor, > but it is only a rumour. Like the end of the journey > is not important, the journey is important, so is it > with the KLR, nice to have it running, but solving its > manifold mysteries is another story, and > life-fulfilling. I will shut up now, but not for > too long I am afraid. Jacostarica. > > >

____________________________________________________________________________________

> Looking for last minute shopping deals? > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

>

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Thank you Jeff, I printed your voltage checking recommendations out, so I can take it down to where the victim is. At the moment I am thinking along the lines of an intermittent short in the live wire going to the fan, as I eliminated the fan relay and automatic system, and have it on manual with a nice switch, but I am sure that is where the problem is. But I haven t checked yet, and I will let you all know. It is so nice in here with the computer, and the morning coffee, and the radio softly on quiet classical and baroque. And it is raining. I wonder why the Clymers recommends the dealer only for spring changing, that s the last place one should go IMO. And why do they state that common spring compressors will not work? It seems a simple straightforward job with the right set up. Thank you, together we will solve the mystery. Jacostarica. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping