Some say oil preference is like a religion to motorheads. No. It's more
 serious than that.  I'm not qualified to comment on the merits such
 esoteric issues. However, I can say that this type of discussion is what I
 enjoy about the list. Facinating stuff. Keep it up gents!
  
 Don+
 
   _____  
 
 From: 
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On
 Behalf Of Mike
 Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 12:04 PM
 To: 
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re:oil question
 
 
 
 --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro  ups.com,
 "E.L. Green"  wrote:
 
 > 
 > Regardless, 6 to 10 psi is the KLR oil pressure spec. Never heard of
  
anybody who 
 
 > measured oil pressure of a KLR who got anything but that under
  
normal operation. Tends 
 
 > to freak people out, but (shrug). If you want super-long life, go
  
buy a Honda Civic. High 
 
 > oil pressure indicates that the oil isn't flowing efficiently, which
  
isn't what you want. I 
 
 > think Patman measured the oil filter bypass pressure once and it
  
wasn't very high either. 
 
 > Of course, too-low oil pressure isn't good either, because it won't
  
push the oil up into the 
 
 > cylinder head, it'll all be running out of lower ports. But 6 to 10
  
psi isn't too-low, it's KLR 
 
 > spec. 
 > 
 > As for the notion of running 20W50 (or any other XW50) in the KLR,
  
it is completely not 
 
 > needed and counter productive. Running thick oils in motorcycles is
  
a practice that dates 
 
 > back to early air-cooled Japanese and British bikes which might as
  
well have been called 
 
 > "wish-cooled" because they just didn't understand cooling systems
  
back then. The oil got 
 
 > well above the boiling point of water in those bikes and fell out of
  
spec below the viscosity 
 
 > where the oil pump could maintain reasonable oil pressure. Starting
  
out with a thicker oil 
 
 > helped stave off that process. But we have a water-cooled bike, and
  
if you maintain your 
 
 > cooling system properly, the oil barely exceeds the boiling point of
  
water if I'm recalling 
 
 > Patman's oil temperature measurements correctly. Oils don't fall out
  
of spec under those 
 
 > conditions. I personally prefer running a diesel-type oil because
  
the tables I've seen show 
 
 > that it has EP performance similar to 20W50 oils but is not too
  
thick for the KLR's primitive 
 
 > oil pump to effectively pump, and the additive package is far
  
superior to automotive oils. 
 
 > I'm running Shell Rotella T 5w40 because it's cheap and available at
  
my local Wally World, I 
 
 > wouldn't hesitate to recommend any other diesel oil in the KLR.
 >
  
Eric,
 Because it's what happens in the KLR doesn't always mean it's the best
 - any chance you might agree with that as a general statement?
 
 The pressure will be low, due to the design of the system. The r/h
 exhaust bearing often shows scuffing. This bearing is at the end of
 the system, and the pressure reading is not taken there...........
 
 I agree with you on the use of diesel oils. A few of them I've looked
 at and used have worked well.
 
 General notes:
 This summer I'm running 20-50 full synthetic syntec. The bike is
 shifting well. No ugly noises at any time, including startup. When I
 get to 2K miles It'll be analyzed.
 
 The clatter heard on startup would probably be cam on valve shim, as
 if you hear clatter in the cam bearings you have big problems. The
 KACR can also make noise.
 
 A "premium" motorcycle specific oil recently wore cam lobes in just
 2000 miles. This oil shared down 25% in this test. There's been very
 good results from the 5-50 syntech so far, going by lack of wear on
 the cam lobes, etc.
 
 all the best,
 
 Mike 
 
 
 
  
 
 
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