charging dilema fixed

[Guest]

On Eldens valve adjustment page http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html step six says - 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the cover is back and torqued down. Is that the thing on the lower left side with the rubber plug, and little bolt inside?? Is all I have to do is remove that bolt, and the washer and spring come out, right? I'm not going to screw up anything if I take that out, am I? And how long is that bolt? My bash plate is kinda in the way. If it's long, I'll have to take it off too. Or break out the dremel. MotorMark

[Tumu Rock]

On Sat, 14 Oct 2000 03:03:03 -0400, Mark Wilson wrote: On Eldens valve adjustment page http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html step six says - 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the cover is back and torqued down. Is that the thing on the lower left side with the rubber plug, and little bolt inside?? Is all I have to do is remove that bolt, and the washer and spring come out, right? I'm not going to screw up anything if I take that out, am I? And how long is that bolt? My bash plate is kinda in the way. If it's long, I'll have to take it off too. Or break out the dremel. MotorMark >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mark, the cam chain tensioner is NOT the one with the rubber plug...that's the balancer chain doo-hickey. The cam chain tensioner is the kinda t-shaped thing sticking out of the cylinder head on the left side of the bike (towards the back of the bike). You just remove the larger center bolt from this unit. dat brooklyn bum _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html

[S2Mumford@aol.com]

> . Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this > BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the > cover is back and torqued down. > > Is that the thing on the lower left side with the rubber plug, and little > bolt inside??

No, I think the part referred to is the bolt on the back left hand side of the jug... if you're sitting on the bike..below your left thigh

> Is all I have to do is remove that bolt, and the washer and spring come

out,

> right?

Yup. Don't forget to stuff the cavity where the cam chain goes with a rag... The list has had enough people lose something down there ( including yours truly) to warrant an extra step in the instructions. I was lucky , my wayward bolt came out thru the removal of the left side cover... with a little creative magnet work, mind you. CA Stu PS My dear old Dad bought himself a bike last week.... a GS 850!! I am happy, proud and ashamed all at the same time.... PSS any UK listers familiar with Sawbridgeworth Cycles in Hertford?

[Ted Palmer]

Mark Wilson wrote: [...]

> 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this > BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the > cover is back and torqued down. > > Is that the thing on the lower left side with the rubber plug, and little > bolt inside?? > Is all I have to do is remove that bolt, and the washer and spring come out, > right?

No. You are thinking of the balancer chain adjuster. The camchain tensioner is on LHS of the cylinder block. Mister_T

[Kurt Simpson (Editor Dual Sport News)]

> On Eldens valve adjustment page > http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html > step six says - > 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this > BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the > cover is back and torqued down.

The admonition to do this before the valve cover is taken off only applies to the pre-'96's...the newer models you can take it off in any order you like...as others have pointed out you have a hold of the wrong adjuster...

> Is that the thing on the lower left side with the rubber plug, and little > bolt inside?? > Is all I have to do is remove that bolt, and the washer and spring come out, > right? > > I'm not going to screw up anything if I take that out, am I? And how long is > that bolt?

yes you will screw it up and don't remove it...this is the balancer chain adjustment and should only be loosened a couple of turns and then retightened gently.. Kurt

[Mark]

At 8:22 AM -0600 10/14/00, Kurt Simpson \(Editor Dual Sport News\) wrote:

>> On Eldens valve adjustment page >> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html >> step six says - >> 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this >> BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the >> cover is back and torqued down. > >The admonition to do this before the valve cover is taken off only >applies to the >pre-'96's...the newer models you can take it off in any order you like...

I've done valve adjustments on '88, '89, '90 Tengai and a '99 and this looks like pure conjecture. Personally, putting the valve cover back on is the last thing I do. I like to rotate the engine two turns by hand to make sure the cam chain is cool and to recheck the valve clearances before I put the valve cover back on. Mark B2 A2

[Toby Lampson]

Mark, Yes, but there is one rubber guide that will take up play, on the underside of the valve cover, that the cam chain runs along. With the valve cover on this might give the most accurate picture of timing. Eh? Toby Mark wrote:

> At 8:22 AM -0600 10/14/00, Kurt Simpson \(Editor Dual Sport News\) wrote: > >> On Eldens valve adjustment page > >> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html > >> step six says - > >> 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain tensioner. Do this > >> BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the > >> cover is back and torqued down. > > > >The admonition to do this before the valve cover is taken off only > >applies to the > >pre-'96's...the newer models you can take it off in any order you like... > > I've done valve adjustments on '88, '89, '90 Tengai and a '99 and > this looks like pure conjecture. > Personally, putting the valve cover back on is the last thing I do. > I like to rotate the engine two turns by hand to make sure the cam > chain is cool and to recheck the valve clearances before I put the > valve cover back on. > Mark > B2 > A2 > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Mark]

Toby The rubber guide doesn't come in contact with the chain. I have never seen any sign of wear marks on the guide on any of the bikes I've checked. Even after 44,000 miles A2, there no wear marks on the guide. I think it's just there to prevent the chain from flying off the sprockets if the chain gets grossly loose. Mark At 8:25 AM -0700 10/14/00, Toby Lampson wrote:

>Mark, > Yes, but there is one rubber guide that will take up play, >on the underside of the valve cover, that the cam chain runs along. >With the valve cover on this might give the most accurate picture of timing. >Eh? > Toby > >Mark wrote: > >> At 8:22 AM -0600 10/14/00, Kurt Simpson \(Editor Dual Sport News\) wrote: >> >> On Eldens valve adjustment page >> >> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html >> >> step six says - >> >> 6. Remove the cap, washer and spring from your cam chain >>tensioner. Do this >> >> BEFORE removing the valve cover and don't put them back until AFTER the >> >> cover is back and torqued down. >> > >> >The admonition to do this before the valve cover is taken off only >> >applies to the >> >pre-'96's...the newer models you can take it off in any order you like... >> >> I've done valve adjustments on '88, '89, '90 Tengai and a '99 and >> this looks like pure conjecture. >> Personally, putting the valve cover back on is the last thing I do. >> I like to rotate the engine two turns by hand to make sure the cam >> chain is cool and to recheck the valve clearances before I put the >> valve cover back on. >> Mark >> B2 >> A2 >> >> Visit the KLR650 archives at >> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 >> Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... >> Let's keep this list SPAM free! >> >> Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >> DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > >Visit the KLR650 archives at >http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 >Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... >Let's keep this list SPAM free! > >Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[aches@deltech.net]

(Has anyone ever start to adjust the valves on the 500 mile maintenance check and found that they didn't need adjusted but were within tolerances. Thanks, Duosportnut) I checked mine at 600, 1800, 3000, 6000 and lo and behold, found them not to have move much. But they are all on the tight side and need to all go out 1 shim size. But they have not tightened up more than 1 thousandth up to now. I don't run a lot of RPM as I'm more of a torque and midrange rpm type of person. -- Best Regards & Happy Trails Andy Chesley @ 57 and ticking in Jennings in SW Louisiana Y2KLR650 @ 8+K sMiles 97 R11RA (Amiga) @ 16+K sMiles So Many Roads, So Little Time http://members.deltech.net/aches/

[Don Detloff]

I checked my valves on my A14 today using Eldon's instructions except the part about removing the cams. As others have already mentioned, it was only necessary to raise the cams slightly in order to remove the shims. The big problem was removing the cam cover. I removed the fan and coil but still did not have enough clearance. I finally removed the upper rad hose at the radiator and swung it out of the way to the right side of the bike. Now with some wiggling and a couple of words I probably haven't used since my Navy days, I was finally able to get the cam cover out from the left side of the bike. The bike has 4000 miles and my valves checked out at: Left Exhaust = 0.005" Right Exhaust = 0.007" Left Intake = 0.002" Right Intake = 0.005" I will able to set both exhaust valves at 0.009" and the intakes will be set at 0.007" and 0.008" Since the bike is fairly new, I prefer to have the valves set to the loose side of spec since I expect them to seat in a bit more. Don Detloff Fair Haven, MI A14