1990 tengai fuel tank

[Joe Tittiger]

After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the line I tried to top off the resivoir. The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the screwdriver although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a larger screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results. Thought I had a brain storm (hahaha) and took a center punch and tried to hit the screw at an angle to get it to turn loose and all that did was dig a groove in the screw head. Any body run into this? Screws made out of silly putty? Your input would me much appreciated this morning before I act rashly and screw things up further. Can I get a replacement cover easiy for the resevoir if I crack it accidently or on purpose? Thanks Joe

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:38:35 -0000 "Joe Tittiger" writes:

> After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the line I > tried to top off the resivoir. > > The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the screwdriver > > although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a larger > screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results. > > Thought I had a brain storm (hahaha) and took a center punch and > tried to hit the screw at an angle to get it to turn loose and all > that did was dig a groove in the screw head. > > Any body run into this? Screws made out of silly putty? > > Your input would me much appreciated this morning before I act > rashly > and screw things up further. > > Can I get a replacement cover easiy for the resevoir if I crack it > accidently or on purpose? > > Thanks > > Joe

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Joe, This might be a fine time to try some Kroil penetrating fluid. You can get it from KANO Laboratories, INC in Nashville, TN. Check them out at www.kanolaboratories.com . This is by far the best penetrating fluid I have ever used. A local gun smith may have a can or two for sale but I buy mine from TN. You could also try using a hand impact on the screws. Sometimes it helps to try to tighten them and then loosen them as that breaks them loose. Some heat on the reservoir housing may also be helpful. But probably not an open flame. I'd probably use my heat gun but a hair dryer could also work possibly. I've put anti seize on the screws holding my cap on. It seems to work well. But I understand that you have to have the screws out to allow this procedure to progress past the planning stages. Another area I use anti seize is on the bolt and plugs in the exhaust system. Easiest to do all this on a new bike before it's got sticky. Good luck, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:38:35PM -0000, Joe Tittiger wrote:

> After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the line I > tried to top off the resivoir. > > The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the screwdriver > although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a larger > screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results.

Kawasaki uses extremely low quality fasteners in many locations on the bike. These are made out of some kind of amazingly soft and corrosion prone metal we often call "compressed oatmeal" here on the group. The ones that are in exposed locations or go into aluminum -- or worse, both -- strip very very easily. The brake resevoir screws and the fork drain plug screws are the worst. They should be replaced with quality stainless parts. The smallest extractor in the micro-mini extractor kit (the one where every extractor has a "drill" side and an "extract" side) from Sears will get these out.

[Paul Shealy]

I was able to remove mine with a hand impact driver, after having the exact same problem. I replaced them with better screws (12.9) that were treated for corrosion that I got from Fred. Hope you get your problem fixed. Paul

On Jul 3, 2006, at 8:38 AM, Joe Tittiger wrote: > After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the line I > tried to top off the resivoir. > > The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the screwdriver > although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a larger > screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results. > > Thought I had a brain storm (hahaha) and took a center punch and > tried to hit the screw at an angle to get it to turn loose and all > that did was dig a groove in the screw head. > > Any body run into this? Screws made out of silly putty? > > Your input would me much appreciated this morning before I act rashly > and screw things up further. > > Can I get a replacement cover easiy for the resevoir if I crack it > accidently or on purpose? > > Thanks > > Joe > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John & Rosie Wong]

I did the same thing. I used some an EZ-out and removed the offending screw. Snap-On makes a better tool. But, I didn't have one and Home Depot was open. I replaced the screws with stainless steel ones and coated the threads with anti-seize prior to installation. I know, some will say I shoulda used Loc-Tite. Nothing's come loose yet.... John A10 "Thunderbolt"

[Ernie Campbell]

Ebay has three nice kits . Just search KLR Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: Thor Lancelot Simon To: Joe Tittiger Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:54 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped front braker resevoir screws On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:38:35PM -0000, Joe Tittiger wrote: > After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the line I > tried to top off the resivoir. > > The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the screwdriver > although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a larger > screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results. Kawasaki uses extremely low quality fasteners in many locations on the bike. These are made out of some kind of amazingly soft and corrosion prone metal we often call "compressed oatmeal" here on the group. The ones that are in exposed locations or go into aluminum -- or worse, both -- strip very very easily. The brake resevoir screws and the fork drain plug screws are the worst. They should be replaced with quality stainless parts. The smallest extractor in the micro-mini extractor kit (the one where every extractor has a "drill" side and an "extract" side) from Sears will get these out. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jasperdreamer]

Hi. I am looking for a new Tank for a 1990 KL 650 Tengai Model B2. No luck with the dealerships, eBay etc. I did find a Plastic welder though. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanx. Dave

[Joe Tittiger]

Many thanks I drilled the head off of the pan head screws and the cover lifted off with plenty of screw left to grab with vice grips. The only thing that I would change would be to do the drilling with a bit the same size as the screw shank as that should take the pan head off while preserving the cover better than using a larger bit like I did. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ernie Campbell" wrote:

> > Ebay has three nice kits . Just search KLR > Ernie Campbell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Thor Lancelot Simon > To: Joe Tittiger > Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 10:54 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped front braker resevoir screws > > > On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:38:35PM -0000, Joe Tittiger wrote: > > After putting on some new front brake pads and bleeding the

line I

> > tried to top off the resivoir. > > > > The first srew immediatly was immediatly stripped by the

screwdriver

> > although I didn't think I was using much force. I tried a

larger

> > screwdriver on the second screw witht he same results. > > Kawasaki uses extremely low quality fasteners in many locations

on the

> bike. These are made out of some kind of amazingly soft and

corrosion

> prone metal we often call "compressed oatmeal" here on the group. > > The ones that are in exposed locations or go into aluminum -- or

worse,

> both -- strip very very easily. The brake resevoir screws and the

fork

> drain plug screws are the worst. They should be replaced with

quality

> stainless parts. > > The smallest extractor in the micro-mini extractor kit (the one

where

> every extractor has a "drill" side and an "extract" side) from

Sears will

> get these out. > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >