insurance (again)

[oc4art]

I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade and am so confused I have done nothing. There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by most of the vendors 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the ones that are there now 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that replaces the two upper bolts with one long bolts. $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts and what upgrade would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, but I am still unsure and don't want to cut corners on something that could be very harmful. I ride 80% dirt Thanks everyone in advance

[Mike Peplinski]

Not to be confused little grasshopper. The 4 bolt change is great for street riders. The stock bolts are unpredictable, the 5 buck replacements have a mettalurgical pedigree and are much stronger. The steel is actually tougher. The problem is that the bolts loosen, bend and shear, leving you with a locktite'd stud in the frame and maybe a damaged gas tank and wireing harness. The 40 buck deal replaces a questionable design, the top bolts, with a much more stout through bolt. The mere increase in diameter of the bolt makes this system stronger. For 80% off road I"d go the through bolt route. For street riding you can check your bolts every couple of thousand miles or for 5 bucks, change them out and forget about it.

>From: "oc4art" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Sub Frame Upgrade >Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 07:03:03 -0000 > >I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade and am so confused > >I have done nothing. > >There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by most of the >vendors > >1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the ones that are >there now >2- $40 - this is the drill through version that replaces the two >upper bolts with one long bolts. > >$35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts and what upgrade >would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, but I am still >unsure and don't want to cut corners on something that could be very >harmful. > >I ride 80% dirt > >Thanks everyone in advance > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Analog Aardvark]

Even in the comfort of your garage, extracting or grinding out that broken off hardened bolt will be a memorably unpleasant experience. I'm a cheapskate and I vote strongly for drilling through. -Luke --- oc4art wrote:

> I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade > and am so confused > > I have done nothing. > > There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by > most of the > vendors > > 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the > ones that are > there now > 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that > replaces the two > upper bolts with one long bolts. > > $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts > and what upgrade > would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, > but I am still > unsure and don't want to cut corners on something > that could be very > harmful. > > I ride 80% dirt > > Thanks everyone in advance > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html

> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Robert Melvin]

On 3/17/06, Analog Aardvark wrote:

> Even in the comfort of your garage, extracting or > grinding out that broken off hardened bolt will be a > memorably unpleasant experience. I'm a cheapskate and > I vote strongly for drilling through. > > -Luke > > --- oc4art wrote: > > > I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade > > and am so confused > > > > I have done nothing. > > > > There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by > > most of the > > vendors > > > > 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the > > ones that are > > there now > > 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that > > replaces the two > > upper bolts with one long bolts. > > > > $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts > > and what upgrade > > would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, > > but I am still > > unsure and don't want to cut corners on something > > that could be very > > harmful. > > > > I ride 80% dirt > > > > Thanks everyone in advance > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > > www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[Robert Melvin]

Hi, (sorry for the confusion with my emails - Gmail has some features that have caused me some difficulty / confusion - I think I have it taken care of now. This is what I meant to send.) Yes, $35 is a lot of difference - but not if you have to drill a hardened bolt out - especially if you are not doing so at a time / place of your choosing with all the correct tools and the ability / time to go back to the store for more bits, etc... Such an experience will easily cost $35 even without taking into account time, missed plans, and aggravation. I used to have a '72 Volvo with a modified Delco alternator and it would break grade 8 bolts - I finally found a Caterpillar track bolt that was supposed to be something like a grade 11 equivalent - it never broke. However, what I would do though is put a nut on the bolt, slot the thread end of the bolt with a hacksaw or grinder, unscrew the nut (repairs threads a bit) and then use the bolt. On the Volvo, I had access to the slotted end of the bolt after it had broken and I would unscrew it with a straight bladed screwdriver (easy), replace the bolt with the next victim, and drive home with headlights.

[Robert Melvin]

Hi, (OK - I switched browser to see it I can get this to send properly) Yes, $35 is a lot of difference - but not if you have to drill a hardened bolt out - especially if you are not doing so at a time / place of your choosing with all the correct tools and the ability / time to go back to the store for more bits, etc... Such an experience will easily cost $35 even without taking into account time, missed plans, and aggravation. I used to have a '72 Volvo with a modified Delco alternator and it would break grade 8 bolts - I finally found a Caterpillar track bolt that was supposed to be something like a grade 11 equivalent - it never broke. However, what I would do though is put a nut on the bolt, slot the thread end of the bolt with a hacksaw or grinder, unscrew the nut (repairs threads a bit) and then use the bolt. On the Volvo, I had access to the slotted end of the bolt after it had broken and I would unscrew it with a straight bladed screwdriver (easy), replace the bolt with the next victim, and drive home with headlights. Robert [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stuart Mumford]

I've done both, and the drill-through method gives me more peace of mind. I've seen the upper bolts break while out riding, and it always happens at the worst time. Mark me as voting for the drill through method too. More work, more mooney, more peace of mind. Thanks CA Stu

> Even in the comfort of your garage, extracting or > grinding out that broken off hardened bolt will be a > memorably unpleasant experience. I'm a cheapskate and > I vote strongly for drilling through. > > -Luke > > --- oc4art wrote: > > > I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade > > and am so confused > > > > I have done nothing. > > > > There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by > > most of the > > vendors > > > > 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the > > ones that are > > there now > > 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that > > replaces the two > > upper bolts with one long bolts. > > > > $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts > > and what upgrade > > would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, > > but I am still > > unsure and don't want to cut corners on something > > that could be very > > harmful. > > > > I ride 80% dirt > > > > Thanks everyone in advance

[pzzldpnthr]

I was curious how long it took to complete the drill through method and what the actual procedures were? Was it difficult? Any special tools required? I know dual star supplies the drill guide and bits. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" wrote:

> > I've done both, and the drill-through method gives me more peace

of mind.

> I've seen > the upper bolts break while out riding, and it always happens at

the worst

> time. > > Mark me as voting for the drill through method too. > > More work, more mooney, more peace of mind. > > Thanks > CA Stu > > > > Even in the comfort of your garage, extracting or > > grinding out that broken off hardened bolt will be a > > memorably unpleasant experience. I'm a cheapskate and > > I vote strongly for drilling through. > > > > -Luke > > > > --- oc4art wrote: > > > > > I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade > > > and am so confused > > > > > > I have done nothing. > > > > > > There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by > > > most of the > > > vendors > > > > > > 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the > > > ones that are > > > there now > > > 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that > > > replaces the two > > > upper bolts with one long bolts. > > > > > > $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts > > > and what upgrade > > > would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, > > > but I am still > > > unsure and don't want to cut corners on something > > > that could be very > > > harmful. > > > > > > I ride 80% dirt > > > > > > Thanks everyone in advance >

[Ron and Brenda Moorhouse]

I am new to the KLR, but not to riding off the beaten path; 40 years of trails riding, the last 17 on KDX200/220's. The lastest a 2005 220kdx. If there is known fact about a defect on a bike, that you are planning to leave civilization with, and it only costs $50 and a couple of hours to fix, from my perspective, there is no debate. My 06 has 130 miles on it and my subframe bolt kit is due to be delivered next week, along with that Doohickey Thingy! Happy Riding! pzzldpnthr wrote: I was curious how long it took to complete the drill through method and what the actual procedures were? Was it difficult? Any special tools required? I know dual star supplies the drill guide and bits. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" wrote:

> > I've done both, and the drill-through method gives me more peace

of mind.

> I've seen > the upper bolts break while out riding, and it always happens at

the worst

> time. > > Mark me as voting for the drill through method too. > > More work, more mooney, more peace of mind. > > Thanks > CA Stu > > > > Even in the comfort of your garage, extracting or > > grinding out that broken off hardened bolt will be a > > memorably unpleasant experience. I'm a cheapskate and > > I vote strongly for drilling through. > > > > -Luke > > > > --- oc4art wrote: > > > > > I have been strugglign to understand this upgrade > > > and am so confused > > > > > > I have done nothing. > > > > > > There are two sub frame upgrade kits being sold by > > > most of the > > > vendors > > > > > > 1- $5, this includes 4 hardened bolts to replace the > > > ones that are > > > there now > > > 2- $40 - this is the drill through version that > > > replaces the two > > > upper bolts with one long bolts. > > > > > > $35 is allot of difference, what are your thoughts > > > and what upgrade > > > would you recommend. I got some advice from Andy, > > > but I am still > > > unsure and don't want to cut corners on something > > > that could be very > > > harmful. > > > > > > I ride 80% dirt > > > > > > Thanks everyone in advance >

Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links Ron and Brenda Moorhouse Modesto, CA 95356 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Analog Aardvark]

Full decent instructions are still posted courtesy Chris, who used to sell the upgrade but I believe no longer does. http://www.bigcee.com/instructions/ultb.pdf -Luke a17 --- pzzldpnthr wrote:

> I was curious how long it took to complete the drill > through method > and what the actual procedures were? Was it > difficult? Any special > tools required? I know dual star supplies the drill > guide and bits.

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