klr vs. dr ??

[rxm98]

When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced the spark plug with a Motocraft 806 or 809, I can't remember which one, but I gapped it to about .035. Does the gap make a difference? Should I go to .032? The recommended is .032-.036. It is an 88 with a Vulcan coil installed, Can that have anything to do with it? I do have a fuel filter inline. I'm afraid that eventually my battery will die from cranking so long, and that I'll be stuck somewhere. Thanks

[Alan L Henderson]

rxm98 wrote:

> When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it > starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced

What is the problem with using the choke? Alot of bikes in this lean mix day and age need the mixture made richer to start even when just shut off for 30 min. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[dooden]

Pilot Circuit on the carb helped my bike go from a Choke when warm or cold to hit the starter button with the key on. Drilled cap, opened the screw about 1/4 turn more thats about it, basically seated the needle and backed it out about 1 3/4 turns and it was fine, have fiddled with it since but still starts fine even with my weak battery. (knock on wood) Oct 02 I got the bike with that battery in it and it sits all cold winter up here in da nort eh.. Dooden A15 Green Ape Same spark plug in it also, suppose should pull that and at least get some anti-seize on the threads if its not too late already.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rxm98" wrote: > > When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it > starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced > the spark plug with a Motocraft 806 or 809, I can't remember which > one, but I gapped it to about .035. Does the gap make a difference? > Should I go to .032? The recommended is .032-.036. > > It is an 88 with a Vulcan coil installed, Can that have anything to do > with it? > > I do have a fuel filter inline. > > I'm afraid that eventually my battery will die from cranking so long, > and that I'll be stuck somewhere. > > Thanks >

[Alan L Henderson]

Alan L Henderson wrote:

> rxm98 wrote: > >>When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it >>starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced > > > > What is the problem with using the choke? Alot of bikes in this lean mix > day and age need the mixture made richer to start even when just shut > off for 30 min. > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa >

On second thought, after another poster pointed it out to me, I guess that 10 to 20 seconds is kind of a long time. Have you tried adjusting your idle mixture yet? Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Alan L Henderson]

rxm98 wrote:

> I haven't tried that yet. Where exactly is that located? Would that > be the pilot screw where cap is drilled out to get to it? What would > be the correct adjustment?

Yes, that would be the pilot screw and the faq at http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html will give you the general consensus on adjustment.

> > I was also thinking that there might be some sort of problem with the > choke not working properly. Is that a possibility and how to check > it?

It might be possible that it isn't working properly but other than saying to check to make sure the cable and fittings are in place and not broken I don't have a clue. Have you modified the air box or the exhaust? Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Alan L Henderson wrote:

> > rxm98 wrote: > > I haven't tried that yet. Where exactly is that located? Would that > > be the pilot screw where cap is drilled out to get to it? What would > > be the correct adjustment? > > Yes, that would be the pilot screw and the faq at > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > will give you the general consensus on adjustment. > > > > > > > I was also thinking that there might be some sort of problem with the > > choke not working properly. Is that a possibility and how to check > > it? > It might be possible that it isn't working properly but other than > saying to check to make sure the cable and fittings are in place and

not

> broken I don't have a clue. > > Have you modified the air box or the exhaust? > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa >

http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html Shows some detail about the carb also. I removed the choke cable at the handlebar, loosened the carb and rotated it so the bottom faced the shifter side, drilled a small hole, started a small sheet metal screw, and pulled the screw with cap attached out with pliers. http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/carb.jpg

[rxm98]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:

> http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html > > Shows some detail about the carb also. > > I removed the choke cable at the handlebar, loosened the carb and > rotated it so the bottom faced the shifter side, drilled a small hole, > started a small sheet metal screw, and pulled the screw with cap > attached out with pliers. > > http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/carb.jpg > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > Oh do not call Jakes phone number on that old website, Jake is out > scouting trails for all of us to ride when we pass over. > > RIP my friend >

So I ripped the carb out of the bike and cleaned it up. I noticed varnish on the bottom of the float bowl. I used a small brush and carb cleaner. I also removed the main jet and cleaned it thoroughly. I the notice that the cap on the pilot screw was already removed. I turned the pilot screw 1 turn counterclockwise (which would be out) anyway. Someone said this could richen the mixture to help startup. Put it back together and on the bike. ---Bike wouldn't start. I changed the spark plug and set the gap to 32 instead of 35. It started right up almost like a new bike, but a new problem persists. As soon as I give it throttle, it dies. I mean, I can crank the throttle all open and it stumbles a bit and then revs up to higher rpms. But applying just a little, maybe up to 1/4 throttle at most, it dies. So what did I do to screw this up. The clymer book calls out for the pilot to be adjust to 1 3/8 turns. SHould I start from there. THanks for all your help out there. I need it.

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rxm98" wrote: snip > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: snip > So I ripped the carb out of the bike and cleaned it up. I noticed > varnish on the bottom of the float bowl. I used a small brush and > carb cleaner. I also removed the main jet and cleaned it thoroughly. > > I the notice that the cap on the pilot screw was already removed. I > turned the pilot screw 1 turn counterclockwise (which would be out) > anyway. Someone said this could richen the mixture to help startup. > > Put it back together and on the bike. > ---Bike wouldn't start. > I changed the spark plug and set the gap to 32 instead of 35. > It started right up almost like a new bike, but a new problem > persists. As soon as I give it throttle, it dies. I mean, I can > crank the throttle all open and it stumbles a bit and then revs up to > higher rpms. But applying just a little, maybe up to 1/4 throttle at > most, it dies. > > So what did I do to screw this up. The clymer book calls out for the > pilot to be adjust to 1 3/8 turns. SHould I start from there. > > THanks for all your help out there. I need it. > I would start at 1 3/4 to 2 full turns out and since you seen varnish, I would add Sea-Foam to the gas tank and run it to see if it will clear up, before doing anything else. Good Luck Dooden A15 Green Ape

[John Radebaugh]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote:

> > I want to hear what the DR guys say. Hope we get a report! > >

\My take: I have ridden over 12K miles on an 03 DR650 and recently about 8K miles on a well equipped KLR650. I absolutley love my KLR and spend as much tme on the dirt and gravel as pavement doing adventure campouts etc. I did the same on my DR. The bottom line is this: If Suzuki would have seen fit to have sold the DR with a larger gas tank, a more suitable seat, and some kind of modest fairing, it would be the current dual sport best seller! I will repeat, I love my KLR! But, the air/oil cooled DR motor is much more bullet proof, easier to work on in all respects. Simple things like changing spark pulgs, tightening chain tension, and on and on, are much simpler and more logical on the DR. It is far easier to handle in the dirt and handles the highway just as well as the KLR (if it has the upgrades of saddle and tank and fairing!) As far as aftermarket stuff is concerned, really how much extra stuff can you bolt on a motorcycle? Everything you may ever need is out there! If I had it to do all over again, I would have a DR650 with another IMS tank, a Corbin seat, a windscreen (of my design), skid plates, racks, panniers, fork spring and rear shock upgrades, and a few mre fun extras and it would be the best out there right now! But I still love my KLR! JR in Cashmere